A toast to the season

After last-minute shopping at two malls and a side trip to find wrapping paper only to come home and discover you’ve run out of Scotch tape, nothing makes the holidays happier than a good stiff drink. It’s even better if it’s one that’s easy to concoct and uses what’s in season.

And now that we’re just days from turning the corner to 2011, sharing a cocktail or three with friends and family is imperative -- in a convivial setting, maybe with James Brown’s “Soulful Christmas” playing, some mistletoe hanging or even balloons and streamers. (Happy New Year!)

Your liquor cabinet

Speak-easy trends may celebrate esoteric tinctures or rare liqueurs, but, fortunately, the success of a holiday cocktail doesn’t rest on whether you’ve stocked up on unusual spirits or ingredients. Indonesian batavia arrack isn’t necessary. No horehound candy (to dissolve in your rye) in your pantry? No problem. And if you don’t have the time to barrel-age a couple of gallons’ worth of Manhattans for six weeks before your get-together, it’s OK.

You’re likely to have on hand whiskey, rum, gin, vodka, tequila. And maybe, because it’s the season, a bottle of ginger liqueur or pear eau de vie (allspice dram might be pushing it).

In other words, you probably already have the makings of a party.

The flavors of the season also happen to make fantastic drinks. A Champagne cocktail made with persimmon, rosemary and a little nutmeg is like Christmas and New Year’s Eve all in one glass.

To help you celebrate, a dozen of L.A.’s best mixologists (including a chef) contributed recipes highlighting four seasonal flavors: pear, persimmon, cranberries and dried spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg or star anise.

Flavorful shortcuts

They don’t call for days-long infusions but instead some easy-to-make simple syrups, such as the cinnamon syrup that bartender Alex Day makes for a pear- tequila cocktail called Papi Pera, or the cinnamon-allspice-vanilla syrup that Vincenzo Marianella of Copa d’Oro uses in his Nuit Rouge (ingeniously filled with cranberry-studded ice cubes).

Smitten with persimmons, 320 Main’s Jason Schiffer makes a sparkling cocktail with a syrup of the fruit, and Matthew Biancaniello of the Library Bar at the Roosevelt Hotel muddles his (from J.J.’s Lone Daughter Ranch at the Santa Monica and Hollywood farmers markets) with lime and mint for a bourbon drink and garnishes it with ground espresso.

Most of the recipes can be made at the last minute, but Zahra Bates of Providence makes a cranberry compote with ginger and sage in advance. She puts it into a sugar-rimmed Santa’s Sidecar but also adds it to cachaca for a Christmas caipirinha. “You or your guests could add it to almost any spirit,” Bates says.

Allan Katz of Cana Rum Bar steeps agua de jamaica overnight and uses it for daiquiris, margaritas and gimlets. “It’s tasty on its own,” Katz says, “and also makes an awesome additive to ... basically anything.”

If you want an easy, light version of eggnog, Alex Straus’ Hemingway’s nog is it -- sort of a cross between eggnog and a rum fizz -- made not with eggs but creme fraiche.

So here they are, 12 cocktail recipes to get you through the rest of the, um, decade.

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CRANBERRIES

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Bloody Holiday

Total time: 25 minutes, plus cooling times

Servings: 1

Note: Adapted from Carolos Tomazo, Waterloo & City

Fresh cranberry puree

4 ounces fresh cranberries

1 cup water, or as needed

1/4 cup agave nectar

Place the cranberries in a small pot. Add water to cover. Cook over medium heat until the berries are soft, 8 to 10 minutes. Pour the cranberry mixture into a blender. Blend on high speed and slowly add the agave nectar. Strain, then cool. This makes about 1 2/3 cups. It will keep, covered and refrigerated, up to about 1 week.

Spiced black tea syrup

2 bags black tea

3 cardamom seeds

Pinch of coriander seeds

Pinch of fennel seeds

3 tips broken from whole star anise

3 whole cloves

1 cup sugar

Zest of half an orange

Tiny pinch of cinnamon powder

Tiny pinch of allspice

1. Brew 1 cup of tea by quickly steeping two bags of black tea in 1 cup of hot water for 2 to 3 minutes.

2. In a medium pot over medium heat, toast the cardamom, coriander and fennel seeds, star anise and cloves just until aromatic, about 1 minute. Into the pot, add the cup of tea and sugar. Add orange zest and bring to a boil over high heat. As soon as the sugar is dissolved, stir in the cinnamon and allspice. Remove from heat and cool completely before straining. This makes about 1 cup. Keep refrigerated up to about 1 week.

Cocktail assembly

2 ounces vodka

2 ounces fresh cranberry puree

2 teaspoons spiced black tea syrup

1/2 ounce ginger beer, or to taste

Lime twist, for garnish

In a cocktail shaker, combine the vodka, cranberry puree and black tea syrup with enough ice to fill a rocks glass. Shake vigorously to combine. Pour into the glass, followed by a float of ginger beer and garnish with a lime twist.

Each cocktail: 227 calories; 0 protein; 26 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 0 fat; 0 cholesterol; 14 grams sugar; 2 mg. sodium.

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Santa’s sidecar

Total time: 25 minutes, plus cooling time for the compote

Servings: 1

Note: Adapted from Zahra Bates, Providence

Cranberry compote

1/2 pound fresh cranberries

1 ounce fresh orange juice

1 to 2 ounces fresh lemon juice

1/2 cup sugar

2 tablespoons loosely packed sage leaves

1 ounce peeled ginger, chopped

In a medium saucepan, combine the cranberries, orange and lemon juices, sugar, sage and ginger, with enough water to cover (about 11/2 cups). Cover and bring to a boil, then remove the cover and simmer until the berries are softened, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat and cool completely. This makes about 3 cups. Keep refrigerated for up to 1 week.

Cocktail assembly

Sugar, for rimming the glass

2 1/2 ounces brandy

1/4 ounce orange liqueur (Bates uses Cointreau)

1 heaping tablespoon cranberry compote

Rim a martini glass with sugar. (Moisten the rim with water or lime juice and dip into sugar.) In a shaker with ice, combine the brandy, orange liqueur and compote. Shake; strain into the glass.

Each cocktail: 197 calories; 0 protein; 6 grams carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 0 fat; 0 cholesterol; 5 grams sugar; 1 mg. sodium.

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Nuit Rouge

Total time: 40 minutes, plus cooling time for the syrup

Servings: 1

Note: Adapted from Vincenzo Marianella, Copa d’Oro. For cranberry ice cubes, place cranberries into ice cube molds and pour cranberry juice to fill. Freeze until set.

Cinnamon-allspice syrup

1 cup water

1 cup sugar

4 cinnamon sticks, broken

1 to 11/2 teaspoons allspice

1 (4-inch) vanilla bean, split

1. In a saucepan, combine the water, sugar, cinnamon and allspice. Scrape the vanilla seeds into the pan; drop the pod in. Heat on medium-high, stirring, until the sugar dissolves.

2. Cover the pot, reduce the heat to low and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Cool, then strain. This makes 1 cup. Keep refrigerated up to 4 weeks.

Cocktail assembly

2 ounces bourbon or Jamaican dark rum

1/2 ounce cinnamon-allspice syrup

3/4 ounce fresh lemon juice

1/2 ounce organic apple juice

Cranberry ice cubes

11/2 to 2 ounces Bundaberg ginger beer

In a cocktail shaker with ice, combine the bourbon, syrup and lemon and apple juices. Shake; strain into a glass filled with cranberry ice cubes. Top with ginger beer.

Each cocktail: 252 calories; 0 protein; 32 grams carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 0 fat; 0 cholesterol; 28 grams sugar; 8 mg. sodium.

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PEARS

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Papi Pera

Total time: 12 minutes, plus steeping time for the syrup

Servings: 1

Note: Adapted from Alex Day

Cinnamon syrup

4 (3 ounces) cinnamon sticks

1 cup water

1 cup sugar

Muddle the cinnamon sticks until broken. In a saucepan, combine the cinnamon, water and sugar, and bring just to a boil. Simmer for 3 minutes, remove from heat and cover. Set aside for at least 3 hours to cool and allow the flavor to develop. Strain. This makes about 1 cup syrup; it will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to 2 weeks.

Cocktail assembly

1 1/2 ounces blanco tequila (Day uses Siete Leguas)

1/2 ounce fresh lime juice

1/2 ounce cinnamon syrup

1/4 ounce pear eau de vie (Clear Creek or Massenez)

Club soda

Thinly sliced pear, for garnish

Into a cocktail shaker with ice, pour the tequila, lime juice, cinnamon syrup and pear eau de vie. Shake, then strain into a rocks glass with fresh ice, and top with a splash of soda. Garnish with three slices of pear on a pick.

Each cocktail: 141 calories; 0 protein; 8 grams carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 0 fat; 0 cholesterol; 7 grams sugar; 1 mg. sodium.

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Pearfect Asian

Total time: 8 minutes

Servings: 1

Note: Adapted from Lee Hefter, WP24. To make simple syrup, combine equal parts water and sugar in a saucepan and heat until the sugar dissolves. Remove from heat and cool before using. To make pear puree, peel and core a ripe pear, preferably a Bartlett. Puree the pear in a blender with 1 ounce water. You can add a little lemon juice to keep it from oxidizing. This makes about one-half cup puree.

1 1/2 ounces vodka

3/4 ounce pear puree

1/2 ounce simple syrup

Juice of 1/2 lime (about 3/4 ounce)

1/2 ounce ginger liqueur (Hefter uses Domaine de Canton)

Sliced pear, for garnish

Into a cocktail shaker with ice, pour the vodka, pear puree, simple syrup, lime juice and ginger liqueur. Shake, then strain into a martini glass. Garnish with pear slices.

Each cocktail: 185 calories; 0 protein; 17 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 0 fat; 0 cholesterol; 14 grams sugar; 2 mg. sodium.

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SPICES

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Sterling daiquiri

Total time: 20 minutes, plus steeping and cooling times for the agua de jamaica

Servings: 1

Note: Adapted from Allan Katz, Cana Rum Bar. Dried hibiscus flowers and canela (Mexican cinnamon sticks) are available at Latino markets. Edible silver leaf flakes are available at select baking and cooking supply stores.

Agua de jamaica

3 2/3 cups water

1 2/3 cups dried hibiscus flowers

Peel from 1/2 Valencia orange (or the whole peel of a small orange)

1/2 lemon

2/3 cup sugar

1 large stick canela

3 star anise

1. In a large plastic container, combine the water, dried hibiscus and orange peel. Squeeze the juice of the lemon into the mixture, and drop the peel in too. Cover and refrigerate for 12 hours to steep, then strain.

2. In a small saucepan, combine the sugar with 1 cup of the strained hibiscus tea. Bring to a simmer, stirring or whisking the sugar until it is dissolved. Add the canela and anise, and continue to simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.

3. Strain the cooled mixture into the container with the remaining cold tea, discarding the spices. This makes about 3 cups, more than is needed for the recipe. Store it, covered and refrigerated, for up to 2 weeks.

Cocktail assembly

1/2 ounce spiced rum (Katz uses

Montecristo)

3/4 ounce ginger liqueur (Domaine de Canton)

1/2 ounce agua de jamaica

1/2 ounce lime juice

2 dashes bitters (Peychaud’s)

Orange twist, for garnish

Edible silver flakes, optional

In a cocktail shaker filled with ice, combine the spiced rum, ginger liqueur, agua de jamaica, lime juice and bitters. Shake and strain into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with a fresh orange twist. Add a sprinkling of edible silver flakes, if desired.

Each cocktail: 120 calories; 0 protein; 13 grams carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 0 fat; 0 cholesterol; 11 grams sugar; 2 mg. sodium.

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Hemingway’s nog

Total time: 5 minutes

Servings: 1

Note: Adapted from Alex Straus, Hemingway’s Bar. To make vanilla simple syrup, place 1 cup sugar, 1 cup water and 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped, into a small pot; boil until the sugar is dissolved. Strain and cool before using. This makes 1 cup; it will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to 2 weeks.

1 1/2 ounces dark rum (Straus uses Atlantico)

3/4 ounce vanilla simple syrup (or vanilla liqueur such as Licor 43)

1 ounce creme fraiche

3 dashes bitters (Straus uses Bittermens Tiki Bitters)

Freshly grated nutmeg for garnish

In a cocktail shaker with ice, combine the rum, vanilla simple syrup, creme fraiche and bitters. Shake vigorously and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with freshly grated nutmeg.

Each cocktail: 181 calories; 1 gram protein; 10 grams carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 5 grams fat; 3 grams saturated fat; 12 mg cholesterol; 10 grams sugar; 20 mg. sodium.

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Hot cider toddy

Total time: 10 minutes

Servings: 1

Note: Adapted from Marcos Tello, 1886. For the apple juice, peel and core any type of apple and feed through a juicer. Strain and store, covered, in the refrigerator. Alternatively, unfiltered fresh apple juice can be found in the refrigerated section of well-stocked supermarkets.

1 1/2 ounces bonded Apple Jack

1/4 ounce maple syrup (or more as desired, depending on the tartness of your apple juice)

6 ounces hot fresh-pressed apple juice (heated in a tea kettle)

3 slices crab apple for garnish, very thinly sliced

Grated cinnamon for garnish

Cinnamon stick for garnish

Into an 8-ounce glass mug, pour the Apple Jack and maple syrup. Top off with the hot apple cider, and stir gently with a spoon. Garnish with slices of crab apple, freshly grated cinnamon and a cinnamon stick.

Each cocktail: 200 calories; 0 protein; 26 grams carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 0 fat; 0 cholesterol; 22 grams sugar; 8 mg. sodium.

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PERSIMMONS

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The Last Mohican

Total time: 6 minutes

Servings: 1

Note: Adapted from Matthew Biancaniello, Library Bar at Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel

1/2 very ripe Hachiya persimmon

1/4 lime

5 mint leaves, plus 1 sprig for garnish

3/4 ounce agave syrup

2 ounces bourbon (Biancaniello uses Basil Hayden)

Pinch of ground Italian espresso (optional)

In a shaker, muddle the persimmon, lime and mint leaves with the agave syrup. Add ice and the bourbon. Shake and strain over ice. Garnish with a mint sprig. Add an optional pinch of ground Italian espresso.

Each cocktail: 221 calories; 0 protein; 25 grams carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 0 fat; 0 cholesterol; 0 sugar; 1 mg. sodium.

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Persimmon margarita

Total time: 12 minutes

Servings: 1

Note: Adapted from Tim Staehling, the Hungry Cat. To make simple syrup, heat equal parts sugar and water until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from heat and cool before using.

2 to 3 ripe Fuyu persimmons

1/2 ounce simple syrup (or to taste)

Ground cinnamon, for rimming the glass

Fine salt, for rimming the glass

Lime wedge, for rimming the glass

1 3/4 ounce tequila reposado

1 ounce lime juice, fresh-squeezed

Lime wheel, for garnish

1. Make the persimmon puree: In a blender, puree the persimmons (with skins), adding simple syrup to taste. This makes about one-half cup puree. The puree will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week.

2. Prepare a martini glass by placing 1 part cinnamon and 3 parts salt (taste and adjust ratio as desired) on a small plate, wet the rim of the glass with a lime wedge, then dip it in the mixture. In a cocktail shaker with ice, combine the tequila, 1 1/2 ounces of persimmon puree and lime juice. Shake vigorously and strain into the rimmed glass. Garnish with a lime wheel.

Each cocktail: 242 calories; 1 grams protein; 35 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams fiber; 0 fat; 0 cholesterol; 24 grams sugar; 3 mg. sodium.

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Diospyros Cup

Total time: 7 minutes

Servings: 1

Note: Adapted from Brian Summers, Test Kitchen. To make the ginger maple syrup, stir 3 parts Grade B maple syrup with 1 part fresh ginger juice. Summers uses chocolate persimmons when in season.

1/2 persimmon, cut into pieces

2 ounces gin

3/4 ounce fresh lemon juice

3/4 ounce ginger maple syrup

1/2 ounce bitter lemon soda or club soda

Thin slices of persimmon, for garnish

Place the persimmon into a shaker and muddle. Fill with ice and add the gin, lemon juice and ginger maple syrup. Shake vigorously and strain over ice in a double old-fashioned glass. Top with a splash of bitter lemon soda or club soda. Garnish with thin slices of persimmon.

Each cocktail: 193 calories; 0 protein; 17 grams carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 0 fat; 0 mg cholesterol; 14 grams sugar; 4 mg. sodium.

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Persimmon Champagne cocktail

Total time: 20 minutes, plus cooling time for the syrup

Servings: 1

Note: Adapted from Jason Schiffer, 320 Main.

Persimmon syrup

1 ripe Fuyu persimmon, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1/2 cup water

Fresh grated nutmeg

1 sprig rosemary

1 cup brown sugar

In a medium saucepan heated over medium heat, cook the persimmon until the pieces caramelize, 5 to 10 minutes. (The persimmons may stick to the bottom of the pan. Gently scrape them from the pan, and continue to stir to keep them from burning.) Stir in the water and rosemary, then grate one-fourth of a nutmeg into the pan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, then add the brown sugar and stir until dissolved. Remove from heat, strain and set aside to cool. This makes about 1 cup syrup, more than is needed for the recipe. It will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week.

Cocktail assembly

1 ounce orange liqueur (Schiffer uses Grand Marnier)

1/2 ounce persimmon syrup

1/4 ounce fresh lemon juice

4 ounces dry Champagne

Small sprig of rosemary, for garnish

1 cranberry, for garnish

In a cocktail shaker with ice, combine the orange liqueur, persimmon syrup and lemon juice. Shake and strain into a Champagne flute or saucer. Top with Champagne. Garnish with a sprig of rosemary and a cranberry.

Each cocktail: 222 calories; 0 protein; 24 grams carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 0 fat; 0 cholesterol; 22 grams sugar; 4 mg. sodium.