Chef of the Moment: MexiKosher’s Katsuji Tanabe spices up kosher
Katsuji Tanabe is chef-partner of Los Angeles’ MexiKosher restaurant, or as he puts it, “a great little Mexican restaurant that happens to be kosher.†He’s also a contestant on this coming season of Bravo’s “Top Chef†and has recently partnered with the Jewish Big Brothers & Big Sisters of Los Angeles as a mentor to teach kids about eating and cooking healthfully. Tanabe grew up in Mexico (his father’s Japanese, and his mother’s Mexican), where he created his first meal at the age of 6. It was paella. After moving to Los Angeles at 18, he enrolled in culinary school but left to cook in kitchens such as Bastide and Mastro’s Steakhouse and later kosher steakhouse Shilo’s. His creative kosher cooking led him to open MexiKosher, the first Kosher Mexican restaurant in Los Angeles; it’s Mexican cooking without the pork, shellfish or dairy. The “carnitas,†for example, is made from brisket braised in duck fat, and the crema is soy-based. There are also 14 salsas on the menu, numbered according to their spice levels.
What’s coming up next on your menu?
I’m experimenting with some unusual, authentic spices and flavors from my tiny hometown in Mexico, as well as traditional South American specialties from Peru, Venezuela and Colombia — but, of course, all fine-tuned to be kosher.
Latest ingredient obsession?
Bottarga! I just cannot get enough on my pasta or fish tacos. I am absolutely obsessed with this ingredient!
What restaurant do you find yourself going to again and again?
Taylor’s Steakhouse. It’s old school in the best possible way. And Guerrilla Tacos. I inhale the cauliflower and date tacos, and his veggie tacos with habanero salsa and poached egg are inspired.
The one piece of kitchen equipment you can’t live without, other than your knives?
My Le Creuset cast-iron Dutch oven. I take it everywhere, but my wife hates it because it’s so heavy.
What’s your favorite breakfast?
Breakfast is one of the few times that I have to spend with my family. My wife makes amazing coffee with beans from the Mexican state of Puebla and sweet enchiladas from her home state of Colima.
MexiKosher, 8832 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 271-0900, www.mexikosher.com
Follow me on Twitter: @bettyhallock
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