Felicitous flavors for spring

Dear SOS: I had a terrific veal special at Bella in Hollywood: a veal scallopini wrapped around asparagus and mozzarella, bathed in a sauce of mushrooms and wine. It was great! Might you publish the recipe?

CALVIN NAITO

Los Angeles

Dear Calvin: Bright green asparagus and fresh mozzarella make a snazzy filling for the veal. The mushroom sauce is rich and flavorful, hitting just the right note to bring this quick and easy dish together. Use a kitchen mallet to pound the veal, placed between two layers of plastic film. (If you don’t have a mallet, a rolling pin works too.) Veal demi glace is available at Surfas in Culver City.

*

Veal scallopini

Total time: About 20 minutes

Servings: 4

Note: From Bella executive chef David Moreno.

8 spears asparagus

4 (2-ounce) slices veal loin, pounded to 1/8 -inch thickness

1/2 cup flour

Salt

White pepper

4 slices (1 ounce each) fresh mozzarella cheese

3 tablespoons butter, divided

5 large button mushrooms, sliced 1/8 -inch thick

1/4 cup dry Marsala wine

1/4 cup dry white wine

1/2 cup veal demi-glace

1. Blanch the asparagus in boiling, salted water until just cooked (but still slightly crunchy), about 3 minutes for medium spears.

2. Salt the veal slices. Place the flour in a shallow dish; stir in 1 teaspoon salt and one-eighth teaspoon white pepper. Dredge the veal in the flour and shake off any extra flour.

3. Wrap each veal slice around 1 mozzarella slice and two asparagus spears.

4. Heat a large saute pan over medium heat. Add 2 tablespoons butter, and when melted add the rolled veal slices. Saute for 45 to 60 seconds until veal is cooked through, then remove from the pan and reserve in a warm place.

5. Place the remaining tablespoon of butter in the hot pan, and add the mushrooms. Cook over high heat until lightly browned, about 1 1/2 minutes, then deglaze the pan with the wines and bring to a boil.

6. Let the liquids reduce by half before adding the veal demi-glace. Reduce the sauce again by half. When finished, season with one-half teaspoon salt, or to taste. You will have about 1 cup sauce.

7. Serve each portion of veal scallopini with one-fourth cup sauce.

Each serving: 379 calories; 19 grams protein; 21 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 21 grams fat; 12 grams saturated fat; 87 mg. cholesterol; 1,105 mg. sodium.