The Dining Guide

From The Times’ critics, a survey of more than 250 Southern California restaurants. For those restaurants that were reviewed and received a star rating in The Times, we have included that rating and the review date here. The rating is based on food, service and ambience, with price taken into account in relation to quality. : Outstanding on every level. : Excellent. : Very good. : Good. No star: Poor to satisfactory. Keep in mind, though, that many restaurants have no star rating -- not because they were rated “no star” but because they were not reviewed under the star system.

BEVERLY HILLS

The Belvedere offers well-crafted French-California cuisine with Asian touches in the Peninsula Beverly Hills Hotel’s elegant dining room. An innovative brunch and a splendid high tea are served in the “Living Room.” Specialty: bluefin tuna “lollipops.” Entrees, $28 to $34. 9882 Little Santa Monica Blvd.; (310) 788-2306. New American.

Cafe Talesai offers, in addition to the usual Thai dishes, many with a northern influence. The food is spirited in flavor and presented attractively. Specialties: Southern Thai border beef, corn fritters, spicy rib-eye salad, Panang curry. Entrees, $9 to $21. 9198 W. Olympic Blvd.; (310) 271-9345. Thai.

Enoteca Drago, Celestino Drago’s wine bar and ristorante, has spaghetti cacio pepe tossed with good pecorino and freshly ground black pepper. It outshines more elaborate dishes. **. Reviewed May 19, 2004. Pastas, $13.50 to $18. 410 N. Canon Drive; (310) 786-8236. Italian.

Fogo de Chao, which means “fire on the ground” in Portuguese, is a new churrascaria. * 1/2. Reviewed June 8, 2005. Specialties: filet mignon, top sirloin, beef ribs, leg of lamb, pork ribs, pork loin. Fixed-price dinner, $48.50. 133 N. La Cienega Blvd.; (310) 289-7755. Brazilian.

Customers line the counter at the Fountain Coffee Shop, where both updated and retro classics are on the menu. It’s popular with hotel guests, but also with people from the neighborhood who bring their kids for the fountain’s classic milkshakes and malts, tuna melts and triple-decker club sandwiches. Entrees, $7 to $13. 9641 Sunset Blvd. at the Beverly Hills Hotel; (310) 276-2251. American.

The Grill on the Alley is the kind of classy retro joint that Nick and Nora from “The Thin Man” films would have loved. Ingredients here are top-notch, and the service is the best in town. Specialties: Cobb salad, Caesar salad, double-cut lamb chops, prime New York steak, classic martini. Entrees, $20 to $35. 9560 Dayton Way; (310) 276-0615. American.

At Gyu-Kaku, a chain of Japanese-style Korean barbecues, everyone can get into the act of grilling veggies and chicken, shrimp and kalbi (marinated boneless ribs) over hardwood coals set into tables. Try the bibimba--rice cooked and served in a sizzling stone bowl. Dessert is grilled too, either classic s’mores or Chiclet-size mochi. Foods for grilling, $5 to $15. 163 N. La Cienega Blvd.; (310) 659-5760. Japanese. Also in West Los Angeles and the South Bay.

Kate Mantilini gets a late-night crowd, especially after a film showing at the nearby Writers Guild. It features a dramatic contemporary setting for basic diner fare. Specialties: eggs, oysters, burgers, steaks, omelets, meatloaf. Entrees, $7 to $35. 9101 Wilshire Blvd.; (310) 278-3699. American. Also in the San Fernando Valley.

La Dolce Vita recalls an era when Frank and his pals savored Italian favorites in a friendly, clubby setting. **. Reviewed Sept. 1, 2004. Specialties: scampi, roasted pepper with anchovies, baked clams oreganata, mozzarella marinara, stracciatella soup, fettuccine Alfredo, rigatoni Bolognese, steak Sinatra, broiled sausage with peppers. Entrees, $20 to $36. 9785 Santa Monica Blvd.; (310) 278-1845. Italian.

Lawry’s the Prime Rib has the dining experience down to a science. The menu is as streamlined as they come. Specialties: spinning bowl salad, Lawry’s cut, Diamond Jim Brady cut, hot fudge sundae, coconut banana cream pie. Entrees, $25 to $40. 100 N. La Cienega Blvd.; (310) 652-2827. American.

Mako has a fresh, contemporary design with the feel of an informal cafe. The food is Asian fusion from the former chef at Chinois on Main. Specialties: crispy oysters, diver scallops, baked uni, whole lobster with black bean sauce, yuzu tart. Entrees, $5 to $23. 225 S. Beverly Drive; (310) 288-8338. Asian fusion.

Eric Klein, the talented young chef who brought Maple Drive back from the near-dead, has decamped to Las Vegas. His replacement is another Spago alum, Vincent Manna. Specialties: foie gras spring rolls, upside-down pineapple cake. Entrees, $15 to $42. 345 N. Maple Drive; (310) 274-9800. California American.

Mastro’s Steakhouse touts itself as the steakhouse with a personality. Portions are huge, the steaks are aged prime, but the sides need work. Specialties: Kansas City strip, veal porterhouse, fried onions, au gratin potatoes. Entrees, $25 to $60 (18-ounce lobster tail). 246 N. Canon Drive; (310) 888-8782. American.

Matsuhisa is Nobu Matsuhisa’s original restaurant, where he honed his admired fusion of South American and Japanese flavors. Reserve a seat at the tempura bar for an omakase that includes his latest creations. Specialties: sushi, “new-style sashimi,” squid “pasta.” Dinner, starting at $65 per person; omakase, starting at $80. 129 N. La Cienega Blvd.; (310) 659-9639. Japanese.

Mr. Chow is a favorite with both old Hollywood and a younger, plugged-in crowd. The staff is adept at making guests feel as if they belong to a smart, exclusive club. Specialties: scallion pancake, mixed dumplings, lobster two ways, Peking duck. Entrees, $25 to $36. 344 N. Camden Drive; (310) 278-9911. Chinese.

Nate n’ Al has been doling out whitefish, rye bread, knishes and blintzes since 1945. A deli is a deli is a deli, but a beloved star-studded Beverly Hills deli and restaurant is another thing entirely. Specialties: Nova Scotia salmon, corned beef, Reuben sandwich. Entrees, $9 to $16. 414 N. Beverly Drive; (310) 274-0101. Deli.

Spago has become such a cliche, it’s easy to forget how truly spectacular executive chef Lee Hefter’s tasting menu can be. The scene is effervescent, with a crowd as eclectic as they come. *** 1/2. Reviewed July 9, 2003. Entrees, $25 to $48; tasting menu without wine, $100. 176 N. Canon Drive; (310) 385-0880. Innovative American.

Despite its mini-mall location, Tamarin has all the appointments of a serious restaurant, including a maitre d’ station, discreet lighting and a small bar. **. Reviewed June 9, 2004. Specialties: fried calamari, crispy sauteed okra, chicken tikka masala, saffron-infused rice pudding with almonds. Entrees, $9 to $19. 9162 Olympic Blvd.; (310) 777-0360. Indian.

Umenohana. Set menus, $38 to $100. 443 N. Canon Drive; (310) 860-9236. Japanese. See Page 14 for more.

Urasawa. ***. Reviewed Oct. 6, 2004. $250 per person. 218 N. Rodeo Drive; (310) 247-8939. Japanese. See Page 14 for more.

BRENTWOOD/BEL-AIR

Brentwood Restaurant and Lounge feels like a private club for the well-heeled, artsy Westside crowd. The menu is all-American comfort food tweaked to a California aesthetic. Specialties: heirloom tomato salad, burrata caprese, prime New York steak, Kobe burger and fries, apple pie. Entrees, $15 to $65. 148 S. Barrington Ave., Brentwood; (310) 476-3511. American.

Chez Mimi, with its inviting bohemian ambience, is reminiscent of a French country auberge, and the food is simple and nostalgic. *. Reviewed Sept. 8, 2002. Specialties: house pate, chilled cucumber soup, vichyssoise, mushroom salad, poulet Chez Helene, gigot d’agneau, calf liver, flourless chocolate cake, tarte Tatin. Entrees, $16.50 to $32.50. 246 26th St., Brentwood; (310) 393-0558. French.

For readers and writers, the new Literati II is cozy and welcoming. Whereas the 5-year-old Literati Cafe specializes in sandwiches and such, the menu from Campanile alum Chris Kidder is attuned to serious eating. Specialties: bruschetta, citrus salad, fritto misto, steak frites, churros. Entrees, $12 to $34. 12081 Wilshire Blvd., Brentwood; (310) 479-3400. California.

Osteria Latini features an eclectic menu of regional Italian dishes. Specialties: oven-baked branzino, Alaskan halibut, venison. Entrees, $10 to $35. 11712 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood; (310) 826-9222. Italian.

Ottavio Palmeri opts for fancy over earthy at his sleek Palmeri Ristorante. *. Reviewed May 18, 2005. Specialties: Margherita pizza; fresh tortelli, tagliatelle and agnolotti; sliced rib-eye served on arugula salad. Entrees, $20 to $32. 11650 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood; (310) 442-8446. Italian.

In a city filled with cookie-cutter Italian restaurants, Pecorino has plenty of personality. The menu of antipasti, pasta, fish and meats cuts a wide swath through Italy. **. Reviewed April 6, 2005. Specialties: bruschetta with cherry tomatoes and ricotta, spaghetti cacio e pepe, stuffed veal chop, pear gratin. Entrees, $19 to $29; desserts, $7. 11604 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood; (310) 571-3800. Italian.

Sisters Luciana and Isabella Momesso are responsible for the authentic pizzas--eight choices--at Pizzicotto, a popular trattoria. Take the exotic castagna, a chestnut flour crust topped with asparagus, garlic, sun-dried tomatoes and roasted bell peppers. Castagna pizza: $12. 11758 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood; (310) 442-7188. Italian.

The Restaurant at the Getty Center may be just one of the best museum restaurants in the country, but nobody else has that billion-dollar view. Entrees, $14 to $32. 1200 Getty Center Drive, Brentwood; (310) 440-6810. California.

Brunch at The Restaurant at the Hotel Bel-Air is as restorative as a weekend away. The terrace is dappled with sunlight, fragrant with flowering plants and effusively romantic. The food is strictly haute hotel fare. Specialties: Bel-Air eggs Benedict, pan-roasted Arctic char in shellfish minestrone. Entrees, $19 to $42. 701 Stone Canyon Road, Bel-Air; (310) 472-1211. California.

Sor Tino Restaurant from Agostino Sciandri offers a haven for those in search of familiar Italian food. *. Reviewed Oct. 13, 2004. Specialties: burrata with tomato and basil, fried calamari, pizzas Margherita and Napoli, wild mushroom risotto, free-range chicken. Entrees, $19 to $26. 908 S. Barrington Ave., Brentwood; (310) 442-8466. Italian.

Toscana, a contemporary Tuscan restaurant, caters to a well-heeled Westside crowd. * 1/2. Reviewed Nov. 20, 2002. Specialties: artichoke salad, risotto with wild mushrooms, bistecca fiorentina (Tuscan-style steak), ricotta cheesecake. Entrees, $13 to $34. 11633 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood; (310) 820-2448. Italian.

Nicola Mastronardi of Vincenti specializes in pastas and risotto, varying the rice dish with the seasons. Whether the ingredients are beets, calamari, roasted bell peppers or gold zucchini blossoms, he lets the rice sing. ** 1/2. Reviewed Oct. 7, 2001. Risotto and pasta, $16 to $20. 11930 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood; (310) 207-0127. Italian.

CENTURY CITY

Clementine is a charming cafe and bakery with sidewalk tables and a takeout counter. Everything at this relaxed spot--the soups, sandwiches, pastries, even the coffee--is terrific. **. Reviewed Feb. 5, 2003. Specialties: soups, house-cured gravlax, egg salad, thumbprint cookies, gingersnaps. Entrees, $8 to $12. 1751 Ensley Ave.; (310) 552-1080. American.

Angelenos are lucky to have La Cachette, a well-established and comfortable restaurant hidden up an alley and run by chef/owner Jean Francois Meteigner with skill, confidence, subtlety and care. ** 1/2. Reviewed May 12, 2004. Specialties: sardines with potatoes and capers, breast and medallions of duck, salmon with fennel, souffles, apple tart. Entrees, $26 to $35. 10506 Little Santa Monica Blvd.; (310) 470-4992. French California.

CULVER CITY

Beacon. ** 1/2. Reviewed Aug. 4, 2004. Small plates, $3 to $10; large plates, $13 to $18. 3280 Helms Ave.; (310) 838-7500. Asian. See Page 17 for more.

JR’s Barbeque has a horseshoe-shaped counter and a handful of tables. Jeanie Jackson’s ‘cue is Memphis-style, slathered with her signature spicy, smoke-laden sauce. She also serves up a superlative potato salad and serious baked beans. For dessert, a double-crusted peach cobbler and a rich 7-Up cake. Entrees, $7 to $22.50. 3055 S. La Cienega Blvd.; (310) 837-6838. Southern.

DOWNTOWN

Angelique is a small Fashion District cafe with sidewalk tables and house-made charcuterie. Specialties: skinny baguette sandwiches, frites, fresh green salad. Sandwiches, $8 to $10. 840 S. Spring St.; (213) 623-8698. French.

Cafe Pinot, set in a free-standing Modernist building, seems to have recaptured its momentum. **. Reviewed Jan. 5, 2005. Specialties: oysters on the half shell, Bakersfield French onion soup, bluefin tuna tartare, three-mustard rotisserie chicken, dark caramel milkshake. Entrees, $18 to $30. 700 W. 5th St.; (213) 239-6500. Contemporary American.

Ciudad celebrates Latin cooking from Havana to Barcelona, Lima and Sao Paulo. A colorful ‘50s-inspired interior, lively bar and outdoor patio set the scene. Specialties: Bolivian sweet corn tamale, Peruvian ceviche, paella a la Valenciana, carnitas. Entrees, $18 to $30. 445 S. Figueroa St.; (213) 486-5171. Latin American.

El Taurino, one of the town’s most colorful Mexican eateries, offers meat (and lots of it) that is shredded, sliced and smothered to satisfy the staunchest of carnivores. Specialties: barbacoa estilo Texcoco (oven-steamed lamb), beef ribs, baked pork leg with a chile marinade, tacos. Entrees, $4 to $8. 1104 S. Hoover St.; (213) 738-9197. Mexican.

Empress Pavilion, a bustling Hong Kong-style restaurant, offers 175 menu selections. Twelve cooks, 19 dim sum specialists and 40 to 60 varieties of dim sum on any given day. Specialties: siu mai (steamed dumplings), pot stickers, barbecued pork. Entrees, $10 to $15. 988 N. Hill St., Suite 201; (213) 617-9898. Chinese.

Ka Ga Ya. Shabu-shabu menus, $38 to $98 per person. 418 E. 2nd St.; (213) 617-1016. Japanese. See Page 18 for more.

Langer’s Deli has served L.A. since 1947 with one of the best pastrami sandwiches in the country. Specialties: hand-sliced pastrami on rye, brisket, corned beef. Pastrami sandwich, $10. 704 S. Alvarado St.; (213) 483-8050. Deli.

Joachim Splichal redefined the steakhouse when he opened Nick & Stef’s six years ago. Lately, though, the menu doesn’t seem nearly as compelling as it once was. 1/2 *. Reviewed Sept. 8, 2004. Specialties: oysters on the half shell, grilled shrimp cocktail, Caesar salad, sirloin burger with garlic French fries, dry-aged New York steak, lemon meringue pie. Entrees, $19 to $38. 330 S. Hope St.; (213) 680-0330. American.

Noe boasts an outdoor terrace with a splendid view of skyscrapers and city lights. Chef Robert Gadsby sends out a series of surprising small courses, many with a distinct Asian accent. ** 1/2. Reviewed Oct. 8, 2003. Specialties: salmon carpaccio, curry-scented beef short ribs. Tasting menus, $65 to $95. 251 S. Olive St. at Omni Los Angeles Hotel at California Plaza; (213) 356-4100. Progressive American.

The Original Pantry, open since 1924, offers all-American basics done right and served fast. Though this old-time greasy spoon seats only 94, it serves as many as 3,000 people a day. Specialties: Swiss steak, sirloin tips, barbecue spare ribs, New York steak. Entrees, $7 to $17. 877 S. Figueroa St.; (213) 972-9279. American.

Orochon Ramen. Ramen, $6.45 to $7. 123 S. Onizuka St., Suite 303, at Weller Court; (213) 617-1766. Japanese. See Page 17 for more.

The Palm Restaurant boasts a prime location: a block from Staples Center in a grand 1920s building. 1/2 *. Reviewed May 25, 2005. Specialties: shrimp cocktail, hearts of palm salad, oysters, jumbo lobster, New York strip steak, lamb chops, New York cheesecake. Entrees, $17.50 to $42.50. 1100 S. Flower St.; (213) 763-4600. American. Also in West Hollywood.

Patina benefits from its new location at the Walt Disney Concert Hall: The crowd is energized, the vibe distinctly urban. If you are feeling particularly flush, reserve the chef’s table and let chef Theo Schoenegger cook. ***. Reviewed March 24, 2004. Specialties: big-eye tuna tartare, pan-seared Alaskan halibut. Dinner tasting menus, $85; chef’s table, $120 per person. 141 S. Grand Ave. at Walt Disney Concert Hall; (213) 972-3331. California French.

Pete’s Cafe & Bar has become a popular hangout for loft-dwelling Old Bank District residents. The New York-style bistro in the renovated San Fernando Building is great for late-night dining; it’s open until 2 a.m. most days. Specialties: “mac & cheese” with three white cheeses, blue cheese fries, the Hellman burger. Entrees, $10 to $22. 400 S. Main St.; (213) 617-1000. American bistro.

At 97-year-old Philippe the Original, the city lines up for French dip sandwiches. Communal tables, sawdust on the floor and an old-fashioned candy counter complete the effect. *. Reviewed Nov. 26, 2003. Specialties: homemade doughnuts, French dip sandwiches, potato salad, macaroni salad, coconut-cream pie. French dip sandwiches, $4 to $5. 1001 N. Alameda St.; (213) 628-3781. American.

R-23 draws neighborhood artists, Japanese visitors and even a few hipsters. The sushi is good, but the cooked dishes are standouts. Specialties: crab salad, shrimp and lobster tempura, steamed mussels, grilled yellowtail, stuffed duck breast. Entrees, $12 to $40. 923 E. 2nd St., Suite 109; (213) 687-7178. Japanese.

Dip Suehiro’s cool, flavorful noodles into the sake-spiked broth, inhale the delicate aroma, then slurp them up. Buckwheat soba are the perfect summer noodle dish. Specialties: any of the soba dishes. Entrees, $4.50 to $17. 337 E. 1st St.; (213) 626-9132. Japanese.

It may not be on a palm-shaded Mexican beach, but Taqueria Vista Hermosa, in the back of the colorful Mercado La Paloma, is not without its charms. The tiny stand offers not only tacos and tortas, but also complex regional specialties from Michoacan. Specialties: ceviche tostada, shrimp cocktail, caldo de camaron (shrimp soup), fish al mojo de ajo, mojarra frita (fried whole fish). Fish and shrimp dishes, $8. 3655 S. Grand Ave.; (213) 741-1251. Mexican.

The white-tablecloth Traxx Restaurant at Union Station has a Spanish Mission-style patio surrounded by jacaranda trees and twinkle lights, making for big romance. Specialties: Caesar salad, pork chop, double-chocolate bread pudding. Appetizers, $8 to $14; entrees, $19 to $28. 800 N. Alameda St. at Union Station; (213) 625-1999. Contemporary American.

Water Grill reigned supreme for seafood until chef Michael Cimarusti left. The new chef, David LeFevre, is just now reworking the menu of the venerable seafood house. Stay tuned. *** 1/2. Reviewed May 14, 2003. Specialties: raw bar, live Maine lobster, seafood from around the world. Entrees, $25 to $39. 544 S. Grand Ave.; (213) 891-0900. Seafood.

Zucca looks the part of a big-city ristorante. Even at dinner, when downtown is often dead, Zucca is full of life, tables filled, a throng at the bar. Specialties: pumpkin tortelloni, lasagna a la Bolognese, rotisserie chicken, grilled veal chop with Marsala. Entrees, $13 to $26. 801 S. Figueroa St.; (213) 614-7800. Italian.

EAST AND SOUTH LOS ANGELES

For more than 40 years, Bertha’s Soul Food has been serving the kind of home cooking that few people do at home anymore. Specialties: gumbo, oxtails in gravy, fried chicken, smothered steak. Entrees, $5 to $12. 1714 W. Century Blvd.; (323) 777-3373. Soul food.

No dish is nearer to the hearts of Jaliscans than birria de chivo, and no restaurant is more devoted to its perfection than 30-year-old Birrieria Jalisco. Specialty: birria (roasted goat meat), $8; small order, $5.75; by the pound, $17. 1845 E. 1st St.; (323) 262-4552. Mexican.

Elegant dishes and grand desserts mark the ambitious foray of La Huasteca into Mexican haute cuisine. Specialties: shrimp appetizer, roasted corn and poblano chile soup, beef medallion with huitlacoche sauce, postre de chocolate Mexicano. Entrees, $9 to $14; four-course prix fixe lunch, $15; five-course prix fixe dinner, $20. 3150 E. Imperial Highway, Plaza Mexico, Suite 100, Lynwood; (310) 537-8800. Mexican.

La Parilla has long been a favorite spot for traditional Mexican food. Specialties: molcajete Mary Carmen, grilled seafood, shrimp “sandwich,” guacamole. Entrees, $7 to $32. 2126 Cesar E. Chavez Ave.; (323) 262-3434. Mexican.

La Serenata de Garibaldi, the beloved Boyle Heights Mexican seafood restaurant, is packed at lunch and quieter at dinner. Specialties: quesadillas, sopes, fish tacos, camarones in molcajete sauce, flan. Entrees, $11 to $24. 1842 E. 1st St.; (323) 265-2887. Also in Santa Monica and in West Los Angeles as La Serenata Gourmet. Mexican.

Mariachi hangout Restaurant Santa Cecilia is tiny and bare, yet the ambience is colorful, thanks to its customers and the exuberant murals on its facade. Armando Salazar cooks all the down-home food fresh each day. Specialties: costillas (pork ribs in tomato-jalapeno salsa), chicken and red potatoes, beef barbacoa, chile verde. Combination plates, $4.60. 1707 Pleasant Ave. at Mariachi Plaza de Los Angeles; (323) 980-0716. Mexican.

Rincon Taurino. 13744 Amar Road, La Puente; (626) 918-5606. Mexican. See listing under San Fernando Valley.

Teresitas Family Restaurant has been a longtime favorite with politicos and police, as well as neighborhood folks looking for familiar Mexican food prepared exceptionally well. Specialties: chicken albondigas soup, pork ribs in chile negro, chilaquiles (fried tortilla chips in chile sauce). Lunch and dinner plates, $6 to $13. 3826 E. 1st St.; (323) 266-6045. Mexican.

GLENDALE/EAGLE ROCK/HIGHLAND PARK

Cafe Beaujolais is the sort of French restaurant every neighborhood ought to have. It’s charming and unpretentious, with a grapevine pattern stenciled high on its walls. Specialties: escargots, rack of lamb, pear tart, lemon tart. Entrees, $13 to $20. 1712 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock; (323) 255-5111. French.

Carousel serves hummus in variations that include fried sausage and lamb. Creamy yogurt cheese comes with tomatoes, olive oil and red pepper or with jalapeno-based toppings. Specialties: tabbouleh, mutabbal, falafel, kibbeh, fatayer (lengths of puff pastry filled with white cheese). Entrees, $11 to $23. 304 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale; (818) 246-7775. Middle Eastern.

Family-owned Casa Bianca, which opened in 1955, is one of the best pizza places in the city, which is why there’s such a long wait for tables. The crust has a gritty cornmeal texture and toppings have so much cheese, the oil runs down your chin. About $10 per person. 1650 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock; (323) 256-9617. Italian.

Damon’s Steakhouse, with its wild tiki bar and jungle vibe, is as retro-Polynesian as an aloha shirt. Go for the petit filet steak lunch and a mai tai. Specialties: beef tenderloin, shrimp cocktail, filet mignon, mai tai, chi chi. Entrees, $15 to $20. 317 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale; (818) 507-1510. American.

El Huarache Azteca is as close as you can come to the simple Mexican cooking found in homes, market fondas and small restaurants deep in Mexico. Specialties: huaraches (masa served hot off the grill) with meat, onions, cilantro, crema and finely powdered cheese on top; marinated pork; aguas frescas. Snacks, 50 cents to $2; huarachito plate, $3; daily specials, $5. 5225 York Blvd., Highland Park; (323) 478-9572. Mexican.

Mandaloun offers superb Lebanese meze and other dishes from chef Michel Chammaa in an elegant setting. Pita bread is baked fresh for each table and owner Ara Kalfayan has put together a terrific wine list. On weekends, there is a live band and belly dancing. ** 1/2. Reviewed April 21, 2004. Entrees, $13 to $22. 141 S. Maryland St., Glendale; (818) 507-1900. Lebanese.

At Porto’s Bakery in Glendale, the crowd lines up, especially at Saturday lunch, for Cuban-style sandwiches made on the bakery’s own bread. Cuban-style sandwiches, $3 to $6. 315 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale; (818) 956-5996. Cuban.

HOLLYWOOD

The newly expanded Ammo is much more ambitious and sophisticated than the original, but still serving solidly pleasing food. **. Reviewed Nov. 17, 2004. Specialties: baby artichoke pizza, caramelized escarole pizza, pappardelle with Bolognese sauce, burger with shoestring fries, grilled ham and cheese sandwich, rustic apple tart, ice cream sandwiches. Entrees, $24 to $32. 1155 N. Highland Ave.; (323) 871-2666. New American.

Cheebo has a winning formula for pizza: a great billowy crust with the flavor built in, and a choice of inspired toppings. **. Reviewed Oct. 22, 2003. Specialties: pizza, house-made ravioli, rustic soup, the Cheebo Chop salad, “Da Bomb” (a souffle that oozes chocolate like lava). Pizzas, $9 to $10; main courses, $14 to $29. 7533 W. Sunset Blvd.; (323) 850-7070. Italian.

Fling yourself onto a plate of “Bluesberry” flapjacks at the Griddle Cafe and try to finish the three huge, fluffy pancakes loaded with blueberries and topped with a mountain of blueberry sour cream. Another perk here: The coffee is French-pressed to order. Flapjacks, $8. 7916 Sunset Blvd.; (323) 874-0377. American.

The Hungry Cat. Entrees, $18 to $22. 1535 N. Vine St.; (323) 462-2155. Seafood. See Page 32 for more.

Meson G. ** 1/2. Reviewed Dec. 29, 2004. Dinner dishes, $8 to $18; lunch, $8 to $14; chef’s tasting menu, $95 per person. 6703 Melrose Ave.; (323) 525-1415. International. See Page 28 for more.

Musso & Frank Grill still serves the best martini in town, and the coveted seats are at the counter. Sit elbow to elbow with old-timers swapping stories with longtime Musso waiters. Specialties: double-cut lamb chops, steaks, grilled calf’s liver. Entrees, $15 to $38; flannel cakes, $6. 6667 Hollywood Blvd.; (323) 467-7788. American.

The menu at Xiomara on Melrose, like the one at the original in Pasadena, features Nuevo Latino cooking with an Asian Cuban accent. **. Reviewed Jan. 21, 2004. Specialties: black bean soup, codfish fritters, rock shrimp tamale, duck ropa vieja, arroz frito, pork hash, mojitos. Entrees, $16.50 to $32. 6101 Melrose Ave.; (323) 461-0601. French Cuban. Also in Pasadena.

HUNTINGTON PARK/BELL/DOWNEY

Cebiche del Rey lures diners with exotic grills and Peruvian criollo dishes. The restaurant boasts four ceviches, the best of which is the zingy tiradito. Specialties: ceviche, papa rellena, chupe de camarones, arroz con mariscos. Entrees, $5 to $27. 7404 Florence Ave., Downey; (562) 806-4033. Peruvian.

Cenaduria La Casita Mexicana is a modest family-run eatery that offers garden-to-table cooking, always from scratch. Specialties: quesadillas, mole poblano, chicken pipian, pozole, cactus agua fresca (in season). Entrees, $7 to $11. 4030 E. Gage Ave., Bell; (323) 773-1898. Mexican.

Ya Ya’s Burgers is a hard-working eatery, scarcely bigger than a burger stand, which sells 65 varieties of Mexico City-style sandwiches. They aren’t deli, and they aren’t what you probably think of as tortas, either. Specialties: torta alemana (spicy sausage with bacon and American cheese), torta tepiquena (roast pork), torta media vuelta (ham, pork and American cheese), steak sandwich. Entrees, $3 to $9. 3202 E. Gage Ave., Huntington Park; (323) 581-2383. Mexican.

KOREATOWN

El Cholo. 1121 S. Western Ave.; (323) 734-2773. Mexican. See listing under Orange County.

Jin Sang is the local branch of a Korean chain where the specialty is shabu-shabu. Much of the food is Japanese, with a Korean accent. Specialties: shabu-shabu (meat or seafood and vegetables dropped into boiling liquid), sukiyaki, kimchi ball (shrimp, tuna, vegetables and kimchi wrapped in cabbage). Entrees, $13 to $46. 2949 W. Olympic Blvd.; (213) 387-1600. Japanese.

Odaesan shows what happens to sashimi outside of Japan--and in a luxurious setting. Some of the seafood is so fresh that it’s still swimming when you order. Specialties: raw fish salad, al tchigae (cod roe soup), lobster sashimi. Entrees, $13 to market price. 2889 W. Olympic Blvd.; (213) 383-9800. Japanese.

Papa Cristo’s Greek Town Taverna serves hard-to-find Greek specialties to an eclectic, ethnic clientele. Specialties: rack of lamb, grilled octopus, grilled Greek sausage, sizzling feta cheese, trio of phyllo dough pastries (spinach, cheese and spicy meat). Entrees, $8 to $13. 2771 W. Pico Blvd.; (323) 737-2970. Greek.

The owners of Si Gol make their condiments and kimchis in the time-honored way, but present their sizzling meats with 21st century style. Specialties: pork bulgogi, beef chuck flap, black pork, Si Gol Special. Set menu, $16 to $17. 480 N. Western Ave.; (323) 467-0100. Korean.

Soot Bull Jeep offers meals that are literally made to order. As smoke curls from tabletop braziers, guests take turns grilling their food, adding fermented bean paste, pickled daikon or kimchi. Specialties: beef, pork, squid and short ribs to grill. Entrees, $14 to $17. 3136 8th St.; (213) 387-3865. Korean.

Taylor’s Steak House is straight out of the old school: dark, cozy and all about steaks. And it’s been that way for more than 50 years. Waitresses don’t have an ounce of ‘tude. * 1/2. Reviewed Sept. 17, 2003. Specialties: Molly salad, navy bean soup, burger made from steak trimmings, porterhouse steak, cottage fries, tri-tip, bone-in prime rib, London broil, apple pie a la mode. Steak dinners with soup or salad, $13 to $26. 3361 W. 8th St.; (213) 382-8449. American. Also in La Canada Flintridge.

LA CIENEGA/FAIRFAX/LA BREA

Amalfi Ristorante is a smart-looking restaurant with a lively bar scene and L.A. Italian cooking. Specialties: pizzas, seafood salad, tagliolini with shrimp, ravioli al vitello, roasted veal chop. * 1/2. Reviewed Dec. 17, 2003. Entrees, $14.50 to $27.50. 143 N. La Brea Ave.; (323) 938-2504. Italian.

Angeli Caffe serves rustic regional Italian fare. On Thursdays, chef Evan Kleiman presents family-style dinners from around the world. Specialties: cacciucco livornese (fish soup), pasta, pizza, roasted half chicken. Entrees, $8 to $18. 7274 Melrose Ave.; (323) 936-9086. Italian.

Gino Angelini has caught the city’s imagination with his casual, authentic Italian cooking at Angelini Osteria. Specialties: pizza bianca, topped with mozzarella, prosciutto di parma and arugula; pastas; stinco (veal shank). Pizza, $14; pastas, $14 to $15. 7313 Beverly Blvd.; (323) 297-0070. Italian.

At A.O.C., Suzanne Goin and Caroline Styne don’t miss a beat with delicious small plates, lovely little salads and a killer wine list. Slip in for an aperitif or a trio of perfect cheeses at the bar. ***. Reviewed March 5, 2003. Specialties: chicken liver crostini, black rice with squid, lamb skewers with artichokes, house-made charcuterie, cheeses. Dishes, $7 to $14. 8022 W. 3rd St.; (323) 653-6359. CaIifornia French.

Cafe Veneto is a casual cafe where you can get a quick bite in a smart, comfortable setting. Specialties: ahi tuna tartara, homemade gnocchi souffle, chocolate “pizza.” Small dishes, $6.50 to $14; pizzas, $7.50 to $13. 8636 W. 3rd St.; (310) 273-3605. Italian.

This year has seen changes at Campanile. Chef Mark Peel has bought out his former wife and partner, Nancy Silverton, and David Rosoff of Opaline is now running the front of the house. He’s beefing up the wine list while Peel takes charge of the kitchen. Specialties: grilled prime rib, crisp flattened chicken. Entrees, $25 to $40. 624 S. La Brea Ave.; (323) 938-1447. California Mediterranean.

Since its opening in 1931, Canter’s has been the wee-hours place for a bowl of matzo ball soup, a chopped liver sandwich, maybe a bear claw. Specialties: corned beef and pastrami sandwiches, cheesecake. Entrees, $9 to $12. 419 N. Fairfax Ave.; (323) 651-2030. Deli and bakery.

Chameau is the Moroccan equivalent of a bistro, with a casual hip vibe and a small a la carte menu of smart contemporary food that changes each season. ** 1/2. Reviewed Nov. 10, 2004. Specialties: duck bestila, homemade couscous, lamb shoulder tagine. Entrees, $18 to $25. 339 N. Fairfax Ave.; (323) 951-0039. French Moroccan.

At Chaya Brasserie, longtime chef Shigefumi Tachibe offers his classic dishes with updated surprises. Specialties: lobster sushi roll, sauteed foie gras with vanilla-Porto reduction, chicken Dijon, two-way lamb chops, grilled wild salmon, creme brulee, fragrant mint tea. Entrees, $15 to $32. 8741 Alden Drive; (310) 859-8833. Franco Japanese. Also in Venice as Chaya Venice.

Cobras & Matadors. 7615 Beverly Blvd.; (323) 932-6178. Spanish. See listing under Los Feliz.

Dolce Enoteca goes for a sexy vibe with rows of votive candles and food better than you’d expect in such a trendy place (Ashton Kutcher is an investor). Pick and choose from the enoteca menu of small dishes. Pastas are reliable too. **. Reviewed July 16, 2003. Specialties: grilled Colorado rack of lamb, risotto Milanese, pumpkin ravioli, chocolate tart. Entrees, $19 to $32. 8284 Melrose Ave.; (323) 852-7174. Contemporary Italian.

Grace boasts a frenetic bar scene and dining room packed with a hip young crowd. The menu is ambitious and theatrical, but not always perfectly executed. **. Reviewed May 21, 2003. Specialties: risotto with pumpkin and sea urchin, tenderloin of wild boar, crab salad, jelly doughnuts. Entrees, $23 to $35. 7360 Beverly Blvd.; (323) 934-4400. New American.

The user-friendly menu at Jar features Suzanne Tracht’s updated American fare. And on Mondays, Nancy Silverton serves her mozzarella menu at the bar. ***. Reviewed June 2, 2004. Specialties: tomato and sweet onion salad, butter lettuce and breakfast radishes, fried Ipswich clams, black mussels with lobster bearnaise, dry-aged steaks, banana cream pie. Entrees, $17 to $39. 8225 Beverly Blvd.; (323) 655-6566. American.

Joan’s on Third sells sought-after gourmet ingredients as well as delicious morning pastries, sandwiches and desserts to eat in or take out. Specialties: tarragon chicken salad, grilled vegetables Provencal, turkey meatloaf, homemade mini cupcakes. Salads, $5 to $13; sandwiches, $8 to $11. 8350 W. 3rd St.; (323) 655-2285. Mediterranean deli.

La Terza. ***. Reviewed Oct. 20, 2004. Entrees, $18 to $34. 8384 W. 3rd St.; (323) 782-8384. Italian. See Page 31 for more.

Dinner at L’Orangerie inevitably evokes a sense of occasion. The French restaurant, which is now 27 years old, has the elegant thing down cold. **. Reviewed Feb. 9, 2005. Specialties: eggs in their shells, escargots, foie gras creme brulee, pan-roasted breast of squab, beef prime rib for two. Entrees, $32 to $75; Le Menu Royal, $140 per person. 903 N. La Cienega Blvd.; (310) 652-9770. French.

¡Loteria! Grill is a great little Mexican stall at the original Farmers Market where everything is made from scratch--even the tortillas. Specialties: enchiladas; beef, pork or potato tacos; aguas frescas. Tacos, $2.35 to $2.55; burritos, $7 to $7.55; enchiladas, $4.50 each. 6333 W. 3rd St., No. 322; (323) 930-2211. Mexican.

Luna Park features a moderately priced menu of American dishes with French, Italian and Asian influences. *. Reviewed Dec. 31, 2003. Specialties: pork satay, moules frites, baby spinach salad, soups, grilled flatiron steak. Entrees, $9.50 to $17. 672 S. La Brea Ave.; (323) 934-2110. New American.

Chef Jean-Pierre Bosc of Mimosa cooks authentic regional bistro fare. Specialties: leeks vinaigrette, Lyonnaise salad, boeuf bourguignon, frites. Entrees, $15.50 to $26; three-course seasonal menu, $36. 8009 Beverly Blvd.; (323) 655-8895. French.

Ortolan. ** 1/2 . Reviewed May 11, 2005. Entrees, $31 to $39. 8338 W. 3rd St.; (323) 653-3300. French. See Page 28 for more.

Pastis is very French, with a relaxed atmosphere and seasonal country cooking. Owner Arnaud Palatan searches out little-known country wines for his list. * 1/2. Reviewed Nov. 19, 2003. Specialties: frisee salad with poached egg and lardons, wild escargots prepared with a drop of Pastis, Provencal daube de boeuf. Entrees, $15 to $25. 8114 Beverly Blvd.; (323) 655-8822. French.

Providence. Entrees, $30 to $40. 5955 Melrose Ave.; (323) 460-4170. Modern American seafood. See Page 28 for more.

At avant-garde Sona, David and Michelle Myers aim for the extreme edge with their chic minimalism. Some of the high-concept dishes work beautifully; others don’t. The two tasting menus are the best way to experience what the couple are doing. Save room for dessert. ** 1/2. Reviewed April 2, 2003. Entrees, $30 to $40; tasting menus, $80 and $119. 401 N. La Cienega Blvd.; (310) 659-7708. Modern French.

Sushi Roku. 8445 W. 3rd St.; (323)655-6767. Japanese fusion. See listing under Pasadena. Also in Santa Monica.

Table 8 draws a trendy young crowd as well as the food mafia. A genuine crossover hit, this is a fine-dining restaurant that’s actually fun. Chef Govind Armstrong’s cooking is sensual and understated. ***. Reviewed Dec. 3, 2003. Specialties: Kobe-style beef, Kurobuta pork. Entrees, $23 to $30. 7661 Melrose Ave.; (323) 782-8258. California seasonal.

Yi Cuisine, a sprawling Asian-themed restaurant and lounge, is great for a cocktail or to share plates. **. Reviewed Sept. 15, 2004. Specialties: shredded chicken and tatsoi salad, curried oysters, crispy pork shank, wok-seared Kobe beef, rib-eye chop, creme brulee with tapioca pearls. Entrees, $14 to $33. 7910 W. 3rd St.; (323) 658-8028. Pan-Asian.

LOS FELIZ/SILVER LAKE/ECHO PARK

Good food and strong coffee make Alcove a popular spot to start the day. For real sleepyheads, breakfast is served until 2:30 p.m. Specialties: omelets, huevos rancheros, Americana panini, potato pancake topped with smoked salmon. Egg dishes, $8 to $10; salads, $7 to $10. 1929 Hillhurst Ave., Los Feliz; (323) 644-0100. American.

At Blair’s, hearty food and moderate prices keep this lively restaurant on simmer. * 1/2. Reviewed Feb. 18, 2004. Specialties: shrimp cocktail and deviled eggs, crab cakes, pan-roasted salmon, short ribs. Entrees, $16 to $32. 2903 Rowena Ave., Silver Lake; (323) 660-1882. New American.

Cafe Stella transports diners to a charming Paris boulevard, where friends and lovers linger over coffee, dessert and conversation. *. Reviewed July 14, 2004. Specialties: charcuterie plate, soupe du jour, steak frites, pot au chocolat, creme brulee. Entrees, $17 to $34. 3932 Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake; (323) 666-0265. French.

The real treasure at Cliff’s Edge is the magical terraced garden where you can sit outside on a balmy evening, sipping wine. The menu is still a work in progress. Specialties: Caesar salad, bruschetta, grilled filet mignon, linguini with clams. Entrees, $15 to $22. 3626 Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake; (323) 666-6116. California Italian.

The newest Cobras & Matadors is a lively tapas restaurant in a warehouse-like space that is mobbed on weekends with a young, bohemian crowd. * 1/2. Reviewed Aug. 25, 2004. Specialties: Pa amb tomaquet, sauteed green lentils, socca cakes, patatas fritas, mojo de ajo prawns, barbecued skirt steak, churros. Entrees, $5 to $17. 4655 Hollywood Blvd., Los Feliz; (323) 669-3922. Spanish. Also in La Cienega/Fairfax/La Brea area.

At Taix, open since 1927, go for the $1.25 valet parking, the remnants of a once prodigious wine list and the homey, inexpensive food. Sit in the bar with the locals, and if you stay late enough, you might catch some live music. Specialties: escargots, steamed black mussels, roast chicken, pot roast. Entrees, $9 to $35. 1911 W. Sunset Blvd., Echo Park; (213) 484-1265. French.

Tantra, wedged between Cirxa and El Conquistador on Sunset Boulevard, preens like the Taj Mahal. Most nights an eclectic crowd settles in, sipping fanciful cocktails and snacking on small plates. * 1/2. Reviewed Nov. 13, 2002. Specialties: tofu and spinach samosa, sweet-and-sour potato salad, catfish masala, chicken xacutti. Entrees, $13 to $18. 3705 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake; (323) 663-8268. Indian.

TiGeorges’ Chicken specializes in moist, smoky chicken cooked Haitian-style on avocado and citrus woods and served with rice, beans, salad and hot sauce. Entrees, $6 to $13. 309 N. Glendale Blvd., Echo Park; (213) 353-9994. Haitian.

Yuca’s, a family-run taco shack, is a neighborhood favorite. Burritos here come with pinto beans only (no rice), in tortillas as tender and velvety as any you’ll find. Specialties: Yucatan-inspired cochinita pibil burritos, $3.15. 2056 Hillhurst Ave., Los Feliz; (323) 662-1214. Mexican.

MALIBU

Geoffrey’s is a cliff-side restaurant with a gorgeous view of the Pacific and a great bar. Chef Bijan Shokatfard, however, is known more for his personal style than his less-than-perfect cooking. 0 stars (satisfactory rating). Reviewed May 5, 2004. Specialties: scallops, ahi tartare, Caesar salad, mojitos, chocolate and hazelnut tart. Main courses, $18 to $36. 27400 Pacific Coast Highway; (310) 457-1519. New American seafood.

Granita blends Wolfgang Puck and chef Jennifer Naylor’s seafood-focused menu of American cuisine with Mediterranean influences. Specialties: crab cakes, oysters, lobster club sandwich, ahi tuna, barbecued salmon “chop.” Entrees, $24 to $36. 23725 W. Malibu Road at Malibu Colony Plaza; (310) 456-0488. American Mediterranean.

The feeling of escape is strong at Inn of the Seventh Ray, a restaurant in the heart of Topanga Canyon that’s been around since 1975. It may be a throwback to the Aquarian age, but it’s also a perfect setting for a romantic vegetarian dinner date. The menu changes frequently. Entrees, $20 to $34. 128 Old Topanga Canyon Road; (310) 455-1311. California organic.

Nobu Malibu--another trendy venue from international restaurateur Nobu Matsuhisa--features cooked dishes that are as important as the sashimi and sushi. Specialties: sushi, sashimi, soft-shell crab spring roll, whole grilled fish. Entrees, $6 to $32; sushi and sashimi, $5 to $9 for two pieces. 3835 Cross Creek Road; (310) 317-9140. Japanese.

Saddle Peak Lodge in the Santa Monica Mountains is a kitschy old stone and timber hunting lodge, with moose heads and hunting gear on the walls. The menu of contemporary game and seafood offers something for everyone. Entrees, $28 to $42; four-course tasting menu, $69; with wine, $86. 419 Cold Canyon Road, Calabasas; (818) 222-3888. American.

MARINA DEL REY/PLAYA DEL REY

Try a thin-crusted Neapolitan-style pizza at Antica Pizzeria. Owner Peppe Miele’s margherita is artful in its simplicity--just chopped tomatoes, pools of melted mozzarella and a few sprigs of basil. Pizzas, $9.50 to $12.50. 13455 Maxella Ave. at Villa Marina Marketplace; (310) 577-8182. Italian.

Aunt Kizzy’s Back Porch. Specialties: fried chicken and a range of sides, including collard greens, corn bread dressing, rice and beans, macaroni and cheese and irresistible candied yams. Fried chicken meal, two pieces: $7.95; three pieces: $12.95. 4325 Glencoe Ave. at Villa Marina Marketplace; (310) 578-1005. Soul food.

Chloe is a sweet neighborhood restaurant with a one-page menu of delicious seasonal dishes that change monthly. **. Reviewed July 2, 2003. Entrees, $22 to $30. 333 Culver Blvd.; (310) 305-4505. New American.

Jer-ne, the restaurant at the Ritz-Carlton Marina del Rey, is splashy in concept but delivers with solid cooking. Sit out on the terrace, where you can watch sailboats glide in and out of the marina. Specialties: Kobe beef carpaccio, grilled lamb chops, bamboo-steamed Thai snapper. Entrees, $24 to $30. 4375 Admiralty Way; (310) 574-4333. New World.

Uncle Darrow’s Cajun Creole Eatery serves “The Big Easy”--a combination of fried catfish, shrimp and oysters. Specialties: red beans and rice, jambalaya, file gumbo. Entrees, $7 to $23. 2560 S. Lincoln Blvd.; (310) 306-4862. Creole Cajun.

PASADENA

Big Mama’s Rib Shack, which offers highly flavored Southern cooking, is no shack at all. Specialties: barbecued ribs, fried chicken, jambalaya, chicken Creole, hush puppies. Dinners, $7 to $17. 1453 N. Lake Ave.; (626) 797-1792. Southern.

Bistro 45, not far from the Pasadena Playhouse, is better known for its encyclopedic wine list than its California-French cooking. The Art Deco building is lovely, and there’s a fine patio. Specialties: duck confit salad, escargots. Entrees, $18 to $32. 45 S. Mentor Ave.; (626) 795-2478. California French.

Cafe Bizou started out in Sherman Oaks as a charming French bistro with modest prices and became a favorite with wine buffs for its low corkage fee. Once it expanded, though, the food hasn’t been as consistent. Specialties: lobster and salmon ravioli, braised short ribs, profiteroles. Entrees, $7 to $19. 91 N. Raymond Ave.; (626) 792-9923. California French. Also in the San Fernando Valley and Santa Monica.

Celestino Ristorante is yet another spinoff of Drago in Santa Monica from Celestino Drago’s brothers and with much the same menu of familiar Italian dishes. Specialties: eggplant timbale, spaghetti with mixed seafood, striped bass with green lentils, tiramisu. Entrees, $9 to $26. 141 S. Lake Ave.; (626) 795-4006. Italian.

Craig Strong is doing stellar cooking at The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton Huntington Hotel & Spa; he weaves elements of Catalonia’s vibrant Mediterranean cooking through his menus. The outdoor terrace overlooking the hotel gardens is one of the most romantic spots around. ***. Reviewed Sept. 2, 2001. Entrees, $27 to $42; chef’s five-course tasting menu, $74 without wine, $125 with wine. 1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave. at the Ritz-Carlton Huntington Hotel & Spa; (626) 568-3900. Contemporary American.

El Cholo. 958 S. Fair Oaks Ave.; (626) 441-4353. Mexican. See listing under Orange County.

Firefly Bistro offers a slightly bohemian California menu that’s high-spirited and fun, just like its tent party atmosphere. **. Reviewed Oct. 23, 2002. Specialties: pecan-coated catfish, braised lamb, grilled ahi. Entrees, $15 to $27. 1009 El Centro St.; (626) 441-2443. Modern American bistro.

Naya is a contemporary American restaurant with an urban vibe and sophisticated bistro food. **. Reviewed Feb. 23, 2005. Specialties: sweetbread salad with soft egg, macaroni and cheese, seared foie gras with green grape tart, braised veal shank with dried plums, prime rib of pork, cote de boeuf served with pommes souffles, petit fours. Entrees, $20 to $30. 49 E. Colorado Blvd.; (626) 793-4712. New American.

Parkway Grill has a lock on over-the-top California cuisine, but a new chef promises to revamp the somewhat tired menu. Specialties: cocoa lobster crepe, brown sugar pear and walnut flatbread. Entrees, $18 to $32. 510 S. Arroyo Parkway; (626) 795-1001. California.

The Raymond has new owners, and though it’s gone through a succession of chefs recently, it still remains virtually unchanged after 23 years, a favorite for brunch. Regular customers clearly find this comforting. Specialties: pan-roasted sea bass, grilled pork chops, Alaskan king crab and shrimp ravioli. Entrees, $30 to $35. 1250 S. Fair Oaks Ave.; (626) 441-3136. American.

Saladang Song melds cutting-edge design with authentic Thai cooking. Specialties: green papaya salad, ground grilled shrimp in lime dressing, coconut shrimp, pad Thai, green curry with eggplant. Entrees, $6 to $20. 383 S. Fair Oaks Ave.; (626) 793-5200. Thai.

The menu at Sushi Roku includes tempura, soup and noodles and sushi. Specialties: clams steamed in sake, yellowtail sashimi with diced chile, filet mignon-wrapped asparagus, rock shrimp tempura. Entrees, $13 to $29. 33 Miller Alley at One Colorado; (626) 683-3000. Japanese fusion. Also in La Cienega area and Santa Monica.

Taylor’s Steak House. 901 Foothill Blvd., La Canada Flintridge; (818) 790-7668. American. See listing under Koreatown.

Trattoria Tre Venezie is a serene northeastern Italian restaurant, uncompromising in its devotion to truly regional cuisine. ***. Reviewed Sept. 24, 2003. Specialties: prosciutto di San Daniele, poppy seed ravioli, potato gnocchi with prune filling, boiled beef, house-smoked pork chop. Entrees, $14 to $35. 119 W. Green St.; (626) 795-4455. Italian.

At Yujean Kang’s, the Taiwan-born chef combines an interest in historical recipes with a willingness to experiment. Specialties: sauteed fish with kumquat and passion fruit sauce, Northern-style wonton soup, Chinese polenta, sliced pork, sweet red-bean pancake. Entrees, $12 to $32. 67 N. Raymond Ave.; (626) 585-0855. Chinese.

Xiomara. 69 N. Raymond Ave.; (626) 796-2520. French Cuban. See listing under Hollywood.

SAN FERNANDO VALLEY

Art’s Deli remains the definitive Valley deli, where you go to be abused by busy waitresses, pick up some fractured menu Yiddish and eat the best corned beef and pastrami on the boulevard. Specialties: corned beef sandwich, “I want it all” chicken soup, short ribs in the pot. Entrees, $10 to $16. 12224 Ventura Blvd., Studio City; (818) 762-1221. Deli.

The Bistro Garden at Coldwater lays claim to a loyal cadre of ladies who lunch now that the original Beverly Hills location is gone. The food is a mix of old-fashioned French bistro and Continental fare. Specialties: French onion soup, Bistro Garden salad, home-cured gravlax, chocolate souffle. Entrees, $17 to $36. 12950 Ventura Blvd., Studio City; (818) 501-0202. French Continental.

Bua Siam turns out rustic fare, fragrant with chile, coconut and lime, from a tiny space in NoHo. In addition to a full Thai menu, there are about 40 small dishes available. Specialties: Thai-style spaghetti with bay leaf stew, nam prik ong (finely chopped pork with chiles and tomatoes), fried chicken and garlic rice. Entrees, $5 to $13. 12924 Sherman Way, North Hollywood; (818) 765-8395. Thai.

Cafe Bizou. 14016 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks; (818) 788-3536. California French. See listing under Pasadena. Also in Santa Monica.

Firefly may be the hippest thing to hit the Valley in years. It’s alluring enough to draw folks from over the hill, but it’s not at all snooty. **. Reviewed Aug. 13, 2003. Specialties: spring pea agnolotti, pan-roasted scallops, charcuterie platter, farmhouse cheeses. Entrees, $16 to $24. 11720 Ventura Blvd., Studio City; (818) 762-1833. Mediterranean.

Kate Mantilini. 5921 Owensmouth Ave. at Warner Center, Woodland Hills; (818) 348-1095. American. See listing under Beverly Hills.

Max has been welcomed by the Valley with open arms. **. Reviewed July 28, 2002. Specialties: lumpia (shrimp and pork spring rolls), Thai lemon grass-coconut soup, mushroom risotto. Entrees, $18 to $28. 13355 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks; (818) 784-2915. California Asian.

Minibar maximizes the small-plate approach with big flavors, global influences, quirky charm and style to burn. ** 1/2. Reviewed June 23, 2004. Specialties: yucca bread, duck confit mini egg rolls, bayou empanada, cactus shrimp, lamb Bombay, wings Marrakech, veal meatballs, marshmallow stew. Small plates, $5 to $15. 3413 Cahuenga Blvd. West, Studio City; (323) 882-6965. International.

At Panzanella, an Italian restaurant from the Drago brothers, portions are large and plates are garnished to the max. Rule of thumb: Stick with the classics and the very simplest dishes. *. Reviewed April 7, 2004. Specialties: ribollita soup, fried calamari, bresaola with arugula, swordfish carpaccio, risotto with meatballs, osso buco. Pasta and risotto, $10 to $17; entrees, $21 to $32. 14928 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks; (818) 784-4400. Italian.

Pinot Bistro, the best of the many Patina spinoffs, has cozy banquettes and poetry scrawled on the mirrors. The menu is updated bistro fare, such as endive and watercress salad with Roquefort. For dessert, try the croissant bread pudding. Entrees, $17 to $25. 12969 Ventura Blvd., Studio City; (818) 990-0500. French.

Rincon Taurino takes barbecue beyond the burger. The Martinez brothers offer beef, pork or lamb cooked up central-Mexico style. Carne asada tacos (only $1.16) are delicious too. Specialties: barbacoa y pancita (cow’s stomach served in broth), marinated leg of pig, carne asada. Entrees, $3 to $9. 14551 Nordhoff St., Panorama City; (818) 893-5927, and 8708 Van Nuys Blvd., Panorama City; (818) 892-7444. Mexican. Also in La Puente.

Roy’s brings Roy Yamaguchi’s Hawaiian fusion to Woodland Hills. But the oversize scale, bright lighting, carpet and furnishings make it feel like a Las Vegas spinoff. Specialties: Sichuan-spiced baby back ribs, mahi-mahi in a macadamia crust, misoyaki seared butterfish, coconut ice cream. Entrees, $19 to $38. 6363 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills; (818) 888-4801. Hawaiian fusion. Also in Orange County.

Spark Woodfire Grill. 11801 Ventura Blvd., Studio City; (818) 623-8883. American bistro and Italian. See listing under Orange County. Also in West Los Angeles.

At The Stand, chefs grill wieners beneath a sculptural copper hood. For the kids, there are old-fashioned sodas and hand-squeezed lemonade. Hot dogs, $3 to $5. 17000 Ventura Blvd., Encino; (818) 788-2700. American.

Sushi Nozawa is famous for its imperious chef, high-speed dining and stratospheric prices. *. Reviewed Aug. 18, 2004. Specialties: hamachi (yellowtail), toro, albacore, sweet shrimp, uni, octopus sushi, salmon skin roll, eel roll with cucumber. Sushi, $30 to $50 per person. 11288 Ventura Blvd., Studio City; (818) 508-7017. Japanese.

Delicious, rarely seen northern Thai dishes are the house specialties at Top Thai. Hunker down with a fragrant bowl of khow soy, the lush, Burmese-influenced coconut-curry noodle soup sold on every corner in Chiang Mai. Entrees, $6 to $13. 7333 Reseda Blvd., Reseda; (818) 705-8902. Thai.

SAN GABRIEL VALLEY

Chung King Restaurant boasts a repository of fiery Sichuan cuisine. The highlight of the huge menu is No. 9: dried beef slices fried with Sichuan hot peppers. Specialty: Sichuan dumplings doused in ultra-spicy red broth. Entrees, $5 to $7. 206 S. Garfield Ave., Monterey Park; (626) 280-7430. Chinese.

Deerfield Kitchen serves a $4 lunch menu that includes a pile of sauteed vegetables shot through with thin brown slices of the smokiest pork around. Specialties: jing dong meat pie, jing do rou bing (fried flatbread stuffed with minced pork). Entrees, $4 to $7. 130 S. Atlantic Blvd., Monterey Park; (626) 284-3867. Chinese.

Green Village doesn’t see itself as a mere village restaurant. Its menu showcases the sophisticated big-city dishes of Shanghai. Specialties: wu-ti special ribs, pork spareribs house-style, braised fresh fish, braised minced pork with gluten puffs. Entrees, $8 to $11. 140 W. Valley Blvd., No. 206-207 at San Gabriel Square, San Gabriel; (626) 288-5918. Chinese.

Lake Spring Shanghai stands out as one of the best in a city full of wonderful Chinese restaurants. Specialties: dumplings, pork “pump” (pork leg cooked in Chinese plum sauce until it’s so tender you can cut it with a spoon). Entrees, $10 to $20. 219 E. Garvey Ave., Monterey Park; (626) 280-3571. Chinese.

Mission 261 has something to suit every situation and pocketbook. There’s probably nothing outside Asia quite like the dim sum scene here. Specialties: taro dumplings, steamed shrimp dumplings, deep-fried pigeon, steamed chicken rolled with bamboo pith in pumpkin sauce. Dim sum, $2 to $7; entrees for three or more, $9 to $47. 261 S. Mission Drive, San Gabriel; (626) 588-1666. Chinese.

New Concept Restaurant. ***. Reviewed March 23, 2005. Specialties: dim sum, Macau roasted pork, rock cod hot pot “Taiwanese style,” steamed rice noodle with beef or spare ribs, live Alaskan king crab, sweet papaya and snow frog fat soup. Entrees, $9 to $20. 700 S. Atlantic Blvd., Monterey Park; (626) 282-6800. Chinese. See Page 22 for more.

NYC Jumbo Seafood is one of the best--and busiest--Cantonese-style seafood houses in the San Gabriel Valley. Call the day before to reserve a king crab or a larger order of live prawns. Specialties: stuffed chicken wings, jellyfish and beef tendon, New Zealand king crab, steamed whole fish, Chinese watercress with preserved bean curd. Entrees, $6 to $25. 203 W. Valley Blvd., Alhambra; (626) 289-4828. Chinese.

Ocean Star is a huge Hong Kong-style Cantonese seafood restaurant that seats 800 or more. Weekend mornings it’s packed with families indulging in dim sum. ** 1/2. Reviewed Aug. 20, 2003. Specialties: boiled live shrimp, winter melon soup, Dungeness crab with black bean sauce, lobster, squab, whole steamed rock cod, roast suckling pig. Entrees, $8 to market price for seafood. 145 N. Atlantic Blvd., Monterey Park; (626) 308-2128. Chinese.

Restaurant Devon is a genuine labor of love, occupying a converted 1890s carriage house in Monrovia’s quaint downtown. Specialties: crab cakes, quail stuffed with lamb mousse, mixed mushroom salad, steak in Port reduction. Entrees, $15 to $29. 109 E. Lemon Ave., Monrovia; (626) 305-0013. California French.

Sea Harbour Seafood is the U.S. venture of a Chinese seafood chain. Dozens of would-be diners crowd outside, waiting for a table at this bustling Hong Kong-style restaurant. Specialties: hot-and-sour seafood soup, steamed prawns, fish maw stew, bamboo pith with mustard greens. Entrees, $8 to $26. 3939 N. Rosemead Blvd., Rosemead; (626) 288-3939. Chinese.

SANTA MONICA

Boa is a contemporary steakhouse with an inviting bar and a young urban vibe. * 1/2. Reviewed March 2, 2005. Specialties: oysters Rockefeller, Dungeness crab cake, chilled jumbo prawns, the wedge salad, “40 day” dry-aged New York strip, bone-in Kansas City filet mignon, Indonesian spiced lamb chops, Meyer lemon creme brulee. Entrees, $22 to $36. 101 Santa Monica Blvd.; (310) 899-4466. American. Also in West Hollywood.

Border Grill has been serving up Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken’s take on south-of-the-border cooking for 15 years now. Stop in for some soft tacos or ceviche before a movie, or for one of the daily specials that draw on the Too Hot Tamales’ repertoire of regional Mexican dishes. Specialties: tortilla soup, chicken panuchos, plantain empanadas, ceviches, pescado Veracruzano, carnitas. Entrees, $12 to $26. 1445 4th St.; (310) 451-1655. Mexican.

At Brass.-Cap., Bruce Marder’s new restaurant at the beach, the picture-perfect decor succeeds, but the execution of classic French dishes is perplexing and, ultimately, disappointing. 1/2 *. Reviewed April 27, 2005. Specialties: steak tartare, watercress soup, potato truffle ravioli, artichoke salad, Muscovy duck confit, pommes frites, creamed spinach, crepes suzette. Entrees, $16 to $32. 100 W. Channel Road; (310) 454-4544. French.

The Buffalo Club is a sophisticated supper club with luxurious leather booths and a magical garden with Chinese lanterns strung overhead. Chef Patrick Healy offers an American menu. Specialties: spicy buffalo wings, Angus New York steak, crispy Atlantic salmon pepper steak, cornmeal-crusted okra. Entrees, $25 to $40. 1520 Olympic Blvd.; (310) 450-8600. American.

Cafe Bizou. 2450 Colorado Ave.; (310) 582-8203. California French. See listing under Pasadena. Also in the San Fernando Valley.

Capo is chef Bruce Marder’s clubby 16-table restaurant, where he grills meats, poultry and seafood in a wood-burning fireplace for a crowd of well-heeled fans. ** 1/2. Reviewed Jan. 22, 2003. Specialties: porcini mushroom soup, tortelli quattro formaggi, Dover sole, New York steak, hot apple tart, crepes in orange sauce. Entrees, $34 to $48. 1810 Ocean Ave.; (310) 394-5550. Italian.

Chez Jay is small and festively informal, basically a bar, with sawdust and peanut shells on the floor. It’s a great, down-to-earth place to have brews and talk about life. Entrees, $17 to $34. 1657 Ocean Ave.; (310) 395-1741. American.

The nonstop action behind the stoves at Wolfgang Puck’s long-running Chinois on Main is entrancing. Waiters in black PJs make their way to the table with barbecued baby ribs in honey and chili sauce, or Chinese chicken salad crackling with fried wonton skin. Main courses to share, $19 to $36. 2709 Main St.; (310) 392-9025. Franco Chinese.

The Counter is a burger palace near the Santa Monica Airport. Order a signature 1/3-, 2/3- or 1-pound burger (beef, turkey or veggie) or build your own by checking off items on a paper menu. For dessert, warm chocolate chip cookies, shakes, malts and old-fashioned root beer floats. Burgers, $6.50 to $11. Delivery available. 2901 Ocean Park Blvd.; (310) 399-8383. American.

Drago serves family-style meals at the communal table on Wednesday nights. These meals include a risotto, ravioli, pasta, meat or poultry entree and a dessert for $35 per person. If you want to sit at your own table, at least two people must order the family menu, which changes weekly. 2628 Wilshire Blvd.; (310) 828-1585. Italian.

El Cholo. 1025 Wilshire Blvd.; (310) 899-1106. Mexican. See listing under Orange County.

Even on weeknights, Father’s Office tends to have a crowd, drawn in part by a long list of upscale beers. Another reason to come is its outstanding bar food--mostly tapas (Spanish cheese, olives and cured meats)--as well as its famous bacon, arugula and blue cheese Office Burger. Small plates, $4.50 to $5; entrees, $9.50 to $15. 1018 Montana Ave.; (310) 393-2337. Bar food.

The Hump, at the Santa Monica Airport, serves sashimi that tastes as if it were just plucked from the ocean. Sushi, $5 to $10; sashimi, $7 to $20. 3221 Donald Douglas Loop South; (310) 313-0977. Japanese.

Il Ristorante di Giorgio Baldi is a modest-looking place near the beach where Signor Baldi cooks the food of his Tuscan childhood for a glitterati crowd. Specialties: pasta e fagioli, fettuccine with porcini sauce, gnocchi in Gorgonzola sauce, veal cutlet, torta della nonna. Entrees, $12 to $37. 114 W. Channel Road; (310) 573-1660. Italian.

JiRaffe goes casual French on Mondays, with its bistro nights. Butcher paper covers the tables, carafes of wine are passed around, and a three-course menu is offered for less than $30. Recent menus have included heirloom tomato and rock shrimp salad and ratatouille-stuffed artichoke and finished with raspberry clafouti with vanilla ice cream and creme anglaise. Monday night bistro menu, $26 to $29. 502 Santa Monica Blvd.; (310) 917-6671. California French.

At Josie, Josie Le Balch’s cozy restaurant, first courses run from classic to gutsy, and a handful of nightly specials often are based on game. Specialties: grilled cuttlefish, campfire trout, buffalo foie burger and truffle fries. Entrees, $18 to $32. 2424 Pico Blvd.; (310) 581-9888. New American.

La Serenata de Garibaldi. 1416 4th St.; (310) 656-7017. Mexican. See listing under East Los Angeles. Also in West Los Angeles as La Serenata Gourmet.

The Lobster, a busy waterfront seafood restaurant that sits at the entrance to the Santa Monica Pier, has both an open-air bar and clamorous casual dining room. Specialties: lobster cocktail, crab cocktail, crab cakes, Copper River salmon, chocolate bread pudding. Entrees, $19 to $54. 1602 Ocean Ave.; (310) 458-9294. Seafood.

Melisse chef Josiah Citrin looks as if he’s run a marathon after a night behind the stoves. He has, in a way. Citrin pours everything he’s got into this ambitious French-influenced restaurant. Specialties: seared foie gras, cote de boeuf, chef’s tasting menu. Entrees, $30 to $42. 1104 Wilshire Blvd.; (310) 395-0881. French.

Michael’s, founded by Michael McCarty in 1979, is one of the original bastions of California cuisine. The garden is a coveted spot on a summer night. Specialties: hazelnut-crusted goat cheese salad, grilled Mediterranean loup de mer, maple leaf duck breast. Entrees, $28 to $39. 1147 3rd St.; (310) 451-0843. California French.

Musha. Dishes, $3 to $18. 424 Wilshire Blvd.; (310) 576-6330. Japanese. Also in the South Bay. See Page 18 for more.

Don Dickman isn’t Italian, but he can cook pasta like a Tuscan grandmother at Rocca. He consistently goes for the gutsy and rustic in a menu that changes daily; a specialty is ricotta gnocchi cloaked in a luscious oxtail ragu. ** 1/2. Reviewed Nov. 12, 2003. Pastas, $11 to $14. 1432-A 4th St.; (310) 395-6765. Italian.

Rockenwagner Restaurant has outdoor seating, a bar for small bites and a room reserved for stammtisch--long communal tables and an inexpensive prix fixe menu. **. Reviewed June 18, 2003. Specialties: Weisswurst with pretzel roll, Black Forest ham, veal goulash, pretzel burger. Entrees, $14.50 to $33.50. 2435 Main St.; (310) 399-6504. California French.

Sushi Roku. 1401 Ocean Ave.; (310) 458-4771. Japanese fusion. See listing under Pasadena. Also in La Cienega area.

A talented chef at the den-like 310 Lounge & Bistro creates compe