At Pagani, New Chef Takes Over With New Menu

French-born Claude Segal, a veteran L.A. chef who last manned the stoves at the now-defunct Drai’s, has stepped up to the plate at Pagani in West Hollywood. Named for its urbane owner and host, George Pagani, the handsome contemporary restaurant opened eight months ago in the former Eclipse space at Robertson Boulevard and Melrose Avenue after lengthy remodeling. It was one of the most glamorous openings in years. The food, however, never quite lived up to the room.

Segal introduced his menu in March, and I have to say it’s a definite improvement over previous ones. He’s tuned into what a certain crowd of Angelenos likes to eat--composed salads, vegetable soups and main courses with familiar California-French flavors. He’s also been shrewd enough to write a menu with dishes that don’t seem to strain the kitchen’s abilities to the degree the ambitious opening menus did. That should ensure the food at this sophisticated-looking restaurant will be more consistent now.

One chill spring night, Chino Ranch tomato soup with diced potatoes, fava beans and other vegetables and fresh herbs is as satisfying a vegetable soup as I’ve had in a long while. There’s a nice Bibb lettuce salad too, with artichoke hearts and asparagus, and a plate of pristine sashimi doused in a lightly sweet dressing. Chicken is roasted in the wood-burning oven with garlic and herbs. Mullard duck breast comes sliced and fanned out on the plate with a crispy potato pancake. And a huge portion of aged prime rib is sliced off the bone and paired with a Merlot sauce. Sides include the ever-popular shoestring fries, but also baby snow peas and grilled Portobello mushroom.

On another positive note, the service is crisp and professional. This should be no surprise: George Pagani is the former longtime general manager and maitre d’ of the restaurant at the Regent Beverly Wilshire Hotel.

Though the execution is still in need of some fine-tuning, I’m looking forward to seeing whether Monsieur Segal will take the opportunity with this fresh start at Pagani to cook in a more personal style.

Pagani Restaurant & Lounge, 8800 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood; (310) 858-5801. Open Monday through Friday for lunch, Monday through Saturday for dinner; late supper menu available until 12:30 a.m. Appetizers, $5 to $12; main courses, $14 to $26. Valet parking.