1997 Lucien Crochet Sancerre “Le Che^ne,” Loire Valley (About $17)

What an absolutely graceful, seductive Sancerre. Pale gold with glints of green, tasting of fresh-squeezed limes and bitter zest with lingering mineral overtones in the finish, this is a ripe, lush, refreshing wine. It’s just about a perfect Sauvignon Blanc and will go beautifully with food.

If you cannot find this wine, ask your local store to order it from the distributor, Neal Rosenthal/Select Vineyards, Shekomeko, N.Y., (800) 910-1990.