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It’s Mushroom Time : Fenix repeats its annual salute to the fabulous fungus with a month of special menus.

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SPECIAL TO THE TIMES

Mushroom Mania: Each fall, Fenix chef Ken Frank creates a wild mushroom menu that features at least 10 varieties from all over the world. Although the season got started a little late, this year brings the precious brownish-orange amanita caesareas. “It’s been at least 10 years since I’ve been able to get the amanita,” Frank says, “and I always ask for them.” He also has parasol mushrooms from France, pine mushrooms from Japan and other wild ‘shrooms from Spain, Turkey, Poland, Italy and the Pacific Northwest.

The five-course mushroom menu changes nightly to reflect which mushroom varieties land in Frank’s kitchen that morning. Mushroom mania begins Monday and runs nightly (and for lunch on Fridays) through the end of the month. The cost is $60 per person; for $25 more, you can get a white truffle upgrade for one course of your choosing.

* Fenix at the Argyle, 8358 Sunset Blvd., L.A.; (213) 848-6677.

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Pasta Freak: Former Cafe Ritrovo owners Samer Ibrahim and Marco D’Orsi are trying something more casual in Redondo Beach, namely Pasta Freak on PCH. D’Orsi will execute the Mediterranean menu, which is, obviously, heavy on the pasta dishes (17 in all), but with plenty of salads and antipasti, too. And for just the first month, Ibrahim is selling all the wines on his list for $10 a bottle.

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* Pasta Freak, 1304 1/2 Pacific Coast Highway, Redondo Beach; (310) 540-8799.

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The Lumpy Gravy Guys: Lumpy Gravy, the quirky restaurant and club on Beverly Boulevard, has a new manager and a new chef. Manager Scott Johnson, who has worked at City, Tatou and Cafe Pinot, wants to cater to creative souls, even ones with minimal spending power, with a menu geared to provide good food at reasonable prices.

Chef David Fouts, formerly at Bambu in Malibu, characterizes his new Lumpy Gravy menu as “the same style as Bambu, but far less expensive.” His cuisine is a blend of Asian, French and Nuevo Latino. Think baby bluefin tuna dumplings over Asian guacamole, crispy duck with cranberry-infused mashed potatoes and, for the broke but hungry, dishes under $5 like Korean short ribs and vegetarian rice bowls.

* Lumpy Gravy, 7311 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles; (213) 934-9400.

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Breakfast of Champions: In the spirit of a Lion’s Club pancake breakfast, the Daily Grill in Brentwood is throwing a fund-raiser breakfast for its firefighters on Saturday. But this time, trained chefs are doing the cooking instead of guys like your father in goofy hats. Brentwood resident Nicki Ezhari wanted to help her local firefighters repair and upgrade their station, so she talked Daily Grill owners Bob and Leslie Spivak into providing the cooking talent and the space. Other Brentwood shop owners are donating money and materials to the cause.

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The breakfast buffet is from 7:30 to 10:30 a.m. and includes pancakes, bacon, eggs, home-style potatoes, bagels and muffins. Advance purchase tickets are $12 per person, (310) 442-0044; $15 at the door. The proceeds benefit Fire Station No. 19 in Brentwood.

* Daily Grill, 11677 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood; (310) 442-0044.

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Old Man El Cholo: On Monday, the original L.A. El Cholo on Western Avenue will celebrate its 70th anniversary by offering a la carte items at 1927 prices. That translates into 35-cent tamales, tostadas and chiles rellenos. Coffee is a nickel. No to-go orders and no doggie bags, understandably. Also, no reservations. The fun begins at 4 p.m.

* El Cholo, 1121 S. Western Ave., Los Angeles; (213) 734-2773.

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More Halloween Happenings: The Day of the Dead meets Halloween at the Border Grill. The ghostly celebration, complete with an altar where you can remember your beloved deceased, runs through Sunday. Reservations are recommended. Border Grill, 1445 4th St., Santa Monica; (310) 451-1655.

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Rix in Santa Monica is holding a Halloween party at 9 p.m. Friday. Here’s the deal: no costume, no gettin’ in the door. The best costume will win a $150 gift certificate for dinner there. A ‘70s cover band will perform and snacks will be provided on trays. Cover charge is $20 at the door, $15 in advance ([310] 441-9197), $10 with dinner. Rix, 1413 5th St., Santa Monica; (310) 656-9688.

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Rockenwagner is holding its second Halloween party on Friday from 6 to 11 p.m., also with a costume contest and a prize of a $150 gift certificate to use at the restaurant. Pumpkin specials are on the menu in the form of pumpkin ravioli, pickled pumpkin, pumpkin apple soup, pumpkin-seed crusted salmon and pumpkin bread. No cover charge, food is a la carte. Rockenwagner, 2435 Main St., Santa Monica; (310) 399-6504.

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The Grill in Beverly Hills gets into the act with its first Halloween party Friday night. Instead of costumes, the Grill is awarding prizes for the best Halloween masks. Money will be given to your favorite charity if you win. No cover charge, reservations recommended. The Grill, 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills; (310) 276-0615.

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Le Colonial does a high-class Halloween with an $85 five-course prix fixe menu that includes Veuve Clicquot Champagne, wines, tax and tip. Dress is black and white or in costume. Le Colonial, 8783 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood; (310) 289-0660.

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