1994 Prieure de St-Jean de Bebian, Coteaux du Languedoc ($18)

Not too long ago, the Languedoc region of southern France had about the same reputation for fine wines as California’s Central Valley. Pretty much zero, that is. Alain Roux, former owner of Prieure de St-Jean de Bebian, was one of the first producers to elevate the quality of winemaking there, and new owners Chantal Lecouty and Jean-Claude Lebrum, formerly of La Revue du Vin de France, are continuing in the same spirit. The 1994 is a rustic wine in the best sense. Briary and full of character, redolent of plums and berries, it tastes wild and deeply alluring. I think immediately of rich meats like duck and pork, garlic, herbs. All the good stuff.