BOOKS WE LOVE : Georgia on My Mind : THE CLASSIC CUISINE OF SOVIET GEORGIA: History, Traditions and Recipes, <i> By Julianne Margvelashvili</i> . <i> (Prentice Hall: $19.95; 207 pp.)</i>

This book came out at the end of last year, just as Soviet Georgia was changing its name to Independent Georgia. A classic case of bad timing, but on the other hand, “Soviet Georgia” has the advantage of being recognizable. And you’ve got to have some way of making sure people know the Georgia you’re talking about is located between Turkey, Russia and Armenia and has nothing to do with Ted Turner or the Braves.

This Georgia is a country so ancient it’s thought to be where wine-making was invented. Everything about it is distinctive. Its rugged, consonant-heavy language, for instance, is unbelievably complex (the verb can be either in the active voice, the passive voice or two other voices that are kind of hard to explain), but it’s written in a cuddly, child-like alphabet made up of circles and curlicues.

Georgia’s culture has a robust, self-confident folk quality. The local folk-singing tradition has always been polyphonic; Georgians instinctively sing multi-part harmony. Julianne Margvelashvili’s book gives a delightful description of the Georgian institution of the tamada , a sort of master of ceremonies elected by the dinner guests.

Naturally, the cuisine is distinctive, a lot like Near Eastern cooking but with louder flavorings. Meat is commonly cooked with fruit. Garlic, red pepper, walnuts and marigold petals show up all over the place, and herbs too--a sauce might contain both basil and cilantro. Georgians are great cheese-eaters, and unlike anybody else in the Near East, they have a taste for corn. Margvelashvili’s book includes a recipe for an almond, hazelnut and popcorn praline.

A handful of books have given us a glimpse of Georgian cooking, but this is the first widely available real Georgian cookbook. The author is a Canadian woman who married the director of foreign relations for Georgia’s government television and radio. Her recipes were picked up on the spot in Georgia.

Not to put too fine a point on it, the previous books have mostly just translated Georgian recipes from Russian cookbooks; they give the identical recipes over and over, with the names of the dishes still spelled a la Russe. Margvelashvili’s book not only has a refreshing freedom from this bookishness but also a freedom from the restrictions of Soviet cookbooks, which were written either as escape reading or as practical guides to cooking in the permanent-shortage Soviet economy. Some Soviet recipes would uncompromisingly call for the impossible--bladdernut blossoms and particular cuts of lamb--while others would resignedly give Georgian meatball and potato soup recipes.

This book has a more reasonable balance. On one hand, Margvelashvili gives a recipe for an exotic appetizer of plums and sarsaparilla leaves that most of us will never try, and she seems to have pinned down the identity of the mysterious Georgian herb utskho suneli (a cousin of fenugreek, it turns out; you could substitute fenugreek leaves, available at some Near Eastern markets). On the other, you could shop for most of her colorful recipes at any supermarket.

She includes some Muslim dishes with Iranian or Central Asian affinities, and unusual dishes of the ancient Jewish community of Georgia. Since Georgians get a lot of their protein from beans or cheese, a lot of the recipes are usable by vegetarians. This is an eye-opening book.

ISPANAKHI PKHALI (Georgian Spinach Pate) 2 pounds spinach 3 to 4 cups boiling water 3/4 cup walnuts 3 cloves garlic 1 teaspoon coriander seeds 1 small onion, finely chopped 1/2 cup cilantro leaves, finely chopped Salt Vinegar 1/2 teaspoon hot paprika, optional Pomegranate seeds Pita bread, optional

Wash spinach in several changes of water. Place in large pot and pour boiling water over. Cover tightly and boil until leaves and stems are tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain and cool. Gently squeeze water from spinach with hands. Chop spinach finely on cutting board.

Combine walnuts, garlic and coriander seeds in food processor and grind to fine paste. Place spinach in medium mixing bowl with onion, cilantro and walnut paste. Mix ingredients well. Add salt, vinegar and paprika to taste.

Let pkhali stand at room temperature 1 hour, then refrigerate in covered container. Serve on 8-inch plate, flattened into thick pancake shape and cross-hatched evenly in grid design. Sprinkle with pomegranate seeds and serve with pita bread. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about: 138 calories; 171 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 10 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 2.24 grams fiber.

BADRIJANI SUNELEBIT (Eggplant With Garlic and Basil) 2 medium eggplants Salt Oil 3/4 cup chopped fresh basil 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped Wine vinegar

Cut eggplants lengthwise in slices about 1/4-inch thick. Sprinkle with salt to taste and let stand 1 hour. Rinse and pat dry.

Heat several tablespoons oil in heavy skillet. Saute 1 slice eggplant until golden on both sides. Place cooked slice on plate and sprinkle with basil, garlic and salt and vinegar. Repeat with remaining slices, building up several layers of cooked eggplant on plate. Let stand 1/2 hour at room temperature, then chill. Serve as salad or side dish. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about: 20 calories; 2 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 1 gram fat; 3 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.38 gram fiber.

MAKVLIS SUPI (Blackberry Soup) 1 pound blackberries 1 clove garlic, minced 1/4 cup finely chopped cilantro 1 tablespoon finely chopped mint 2 tablespoons finely chopped thyme 1 small onion, finely chopped 1 small cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced Salt 1 teaspoon wine vinegar Sour cream

Crush blackberries and strain off juice. Add water to juice to make 3 1/2 cups liquid. Add garlic, cilantro, mint, thyme, onion, cucumber, salt to taste and vinegar. Stir well and chill. Pass with sour cream. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about: 56 calories; 52 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 13 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 3.76 grams fiber.