BOOKS WE LOVE : Lessons From a French Kitchen : SIMPLY FRENCH: Patricia Wells Presents the Cuisine of Joel Robuchon, <i> By Patricia Wells</i> . <i> (William Morrow: $35; 368 pp.)</i>

If a famous chef gives you a recipe, watch out. Something’s bound to go wrong. A major step will be omitted, an ingredient will be unattainable, a technique will be called for that goes beyond the range of your cooking skills. Worse, you’ll probably get lost in a sea of saute pans and work bowls because chefs inevitably presume that doing dishes is somebody else’s job.

Chefs do not think like home cooks, they don’t cook like home cooks and the recipes they follow look nothing like any recipe you’ll find in an average cookbook. What you really need to do if you want a chef’s recipe, is to go into a chef’s kitchen, stand at the stove as he or she works and take detailed notes on every movement--every pinch of salt, every shake of the pan. This is precisely what food writer Patricia Wells has done with three-star French chef Joel Robuchon. She spent nearly four years, off and on, shadowing Robuchon in the kitchen of his Paris restaurant Jamin, watching the chef that many call the best in the world shop for ingredients, season chicken, remove pots from the stove when the flavors were exactly right.

The resulting book, “Simply French,” is a guide for amateur cooks striving to attain some of the flavors and ways of presenting food that normally only show up on a restaurant plate. Straining a tomato and onion sauce, a seemingly needless task, transforms simple sauteed chicken into something elegant; take the extra time to carve carrots, turnips, celery and potatoes into thin, uniform triangles and you’ll bring out the flavor of each vegetable and make a great-looking soup. One of the messages of this book: Details matter, especially with everyday dishes. After all, Wells points out, Robuchon is a chef who made his reputation on two of the world’s simplest foods: green salad and mashed potatoes.

It’s a mistake, however, to think that you can recreate three-star cooking at home from the recipes in a cookbook, even this very good one. At Robuchon’s Jamin, for instance, there are 40 employees to serve just 45 customers. What home cook has these kind of resources?

The recipes, then, are not direct translations of the food prepared in the Jamin kitchen. In fact, they are as much a product of Wells’s cooking as Robuchon’s. She’s taken his philosophy of food, picked up many of his habits and food prejudices, and then filtered them through the sensibilities of an American home cook.

The most important lesson is how to make food taste of itself. Robuchon calls this kind of cooking Cuisine Actuelle . “If you’re eating a lobster,” he tells Wells, “it should taste like a lobster. If you’re eating mushrooms, they should taste like mushrooms. As cooks, we have the right to enhance or heighten flavors, but we do not have the right to destroy them.” Wells takes this advice and proves his point with recipes--a simple fricasse of mushrooms, for instance, in which each variety is cooked separately in olive oil and then blended together at the last minute with butter--that demonstrate how individual flavors can be layered to make a cohesive whole.

Despite all this, it can take some time to warm to this book. If you mistakenly think that this is a book about Joel Robuchon, you will be disappointed. We learn very little about Robuchon’s personality (“pixie-like and elfin” is as deep as it gets), or even about the everyday workings of the kitchen at Jamin. What you’ll come away with instead, is a way of thinking about food that only can improve your cooking.

BITTERSWEET CHOCOLATE TART 1/4 cup heavy whipping cream 1/3 cup milk 7 ounces bittersweet chocolate, preferably Lindt Excellence, grated or finely chopped 1 large egg, lightly beaten 1 (9-inch) partially baked Shortbread Pastry Unsweetened cocoa powder, preferably Dutch process, optional

Combine cream and milk in medium saucepan. Bring to simmer over medium heat. Remove saucepan from heat. Add chocolate and stir until chocolate is thoroughly melted and mixture is well blended. Let cool to lukewarm.

Whisk egg into mixture until thoroughly blended. Pour into partially baked Shortbread Pastry shell. Place in center of 375-degree oven and bake until filling is slightly firm but still trembling in center, 12 to 15 minutes. Watch carefully, ovens vary and baking time may differ slightly. Remove from oven and cool on rack.

Dust with unsweetened cocoa powder. Serve warm or at room temperature. Makes 8 servings.

Each serving contains about:

324 calories; 49 mg sodium; 95 mg cholesterol; 24 grams fat; 28 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.53 gram fiber.

Shortbread Pastry (Pate Sablee) 1 plump moist vanilla bean 1 large egg yolk, at room temperature 2 tablespoons finely ground blanched almonds 1/2 cup powdered sugar, sifted 3/4 cup flour, sifted 1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened, plus more for brushing pan

Flatten vanilla bean and cut in half lengthwise. With small spoon, scrape out seeds and place in small bowl. Discard pod or save for another use. Add egg yolk and stir to blend. Set aside.

Combine almonds and sugar in food processor and process until blended. Add flour and salt and process to blend. Add softened butter and process just until mixture resembles coarse crumbs, about 10 seconds. Add egg yolk-vanilla seed mixture. Pulse machine just until dough begins to hold together, about 10 times. Do not overprocess. Dough should not form ball.

With pastry scraper, transfer dough to sheet of wax paper. Using hands, gently form dough into ball, then flatten into circle. Wrap and refrigerate at least 1 hour, or up to 24 hours.

Butter bottom and sides of 9-inch black tin tart pan with removable bottom. Set aside.

On lightly floured surface, carefully roll dough out to form 11-inch circle. Transfer to prepared tart pan. Without stretching dough, lift up at edges so it naturally falls into rim of pan. With fingertips, delicately coax dough into rim. There should be generous 1-inch overhang, allow to drape naturally over edge of pan. Generously pierce dough lining at bottom of tart pan, and refrigerate at least 1 hour, or wrap loosely in foil and refrigerate up to 24 hours.

Remove tart shell from refrigerator. Unwrap and place on baking sheet. Place baking sheet in center of oven.

Bake at 375 degrees just until pastry begins to firm up, about 5 minutes. Remove shell from oven. With large sharp knife, carefully trim off and discard overhanging pastry to create smooth, well-trimmed shell. Return to oven and bake until pastry is brown around edges, 8 to 10 minutes more. Cool at least 10 minutes (or up to several hours) before filling. Makes 1 (9-inch) pastry shell.

Note: For fully baked shell, bake 20 minutes more, for total of about 35 minutes. Cool at least 10 minutes (or up to several hours) before filling.

ROASTED DUCK WITH SAUTEED APPLES AND HONEY 1 (2 1/2- to 4-pound) duck, liver reserved, trimmings (neck, heart, wing tips) chopped Sea salt Freshly ground white pepper 3 large cloves garlic 1 small carrot, cut into thick diagonal slices 1 small onion, cut into thick slices 1 sprig fresh thyme Grated zest of 1 small orange Grated zest of 1 small grapefruit Grated zest of 1 lime 1 tablespoon honey 3 to 4 tablespoons apple cider vinegar, about 1/2 cup water, about 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled Caramelized Apple Slices

Season duck to taste, inside and out, with sea salt and white pepper. Place duck liver in cavity and truss. Place duck on its side in large oven-proof skillet. Set in 425-degree oven with fullest part of duck (breast portion) toward back. Roast, uncovered, 10 minutes. Turn duck on other side and roast at 425 degrees 10 minutes more. Turn duck on its back and roast 10 minutes more.

Remove skillet from oven and surround duck with chopped duck trimmings and garlic, carrot, onion and thyme. Remove trussing string from bird and season legs to taste with salt. (At this point bird will hold shape on its own. Without string, legs will cook more evenly.)

Return skillet to oven and roast duck total of 13 to 15 minutes per pound. Spoon cooking juices over duck 3 or 4 times to keep bird moist.

Remove duck from oven and season generously to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer duck to platter, reserving skillet and contents. Place duck platter at angle against edge of baking dish, with head down and tail in air. (This allows juices to flow down through to breast meat.) Cover duck loosely with foil. Turn off oven and place duck in oven, with door ajar. Let stand at least 20 minutes and up to 1 hour. Duck will continue to cook as it stands.

Bring medium saucepan of water to boil. Place orange, grapefruit and lime zests in fine-mesh sieve. Submerge in boiling water 2 minutes to blanch. Rinse zest under cold running water, drain and set aside.

Place skillet with trimmings over high heat. Cook until trimmings are browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain and discard all liquid in pan (it will be mostly fat). Add honey, stir, and cook 1 to 2 minutes more. Deglaze with several tablespoons vinegar, and cook 1 minute. Add about 1/2 cup water (or enough to make rich sauce), and simmer 5 minutes more.

Strain sauce through fine-mesh sieve placed over clean skillet, pressing down on trimmings to extract as much juice and flavor as possible. Add any cooking juices that have drained from duck as it was standing. Bring sauce to boil over high heat. Taste, and if necessary, add 1 or 2 teaspoons more vinegar. Remove pan from heat and add chilled butter, few pieces at time, working on and off heat so that butter melts gently to thicken sauce. Stir in reserved zest.

Carve duck and arrange meat in center of platter, surrounded by Caramelized Apple Slices. Spoon about half sauce over duck. Pour reserved sauce into warmed sauce boat. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

Note: Cooking time for duck will vary according to size of duck and flavor preference. Select shorter roasting time per pound for large duck, longer time for smaller duck. Total roasting time for 2 1/2-pound duck, for example, would be about 37 minutes, for 5-pound duck, 1 hour and 5 minutes.

Each serving contains about: 1,145 calories; 334 mg sodium; 216 mg cholesterol; 104 grams fat; 31 grams carbohydrates; 26 grams protein; 1.03 grams fiber.

Caramelized Apple Slices 1/4 cup clarified butter 4 cooking apples, cored, peeled and cut into 6 even slices

In large non-stick skillet, heat clarified butter over medium-high heat until very hot. Add apples in single layer and cook until golden brown on 1 side, then turn and cook other side. Cook until tender, when apples offer no resistance when pierced with tip of 2-pronged fork, 5 to 10 minutes.

Drain, arrange around edge of oven-proof platter, cover with foil, and keep warm.

Wells’ version of this Robuchon classic makes the impossible seem possible. It’s based on one of many dishes served at Jamin that make you ask, “How’d they do that?” On the plate is a “turban” of spaghetti; when you cut into the pasta you find several shrimp that have been carefully tucked inside. One trick that Wells forgot to mention--it’s a lot easier to line the molds with the spaghetti if you use extra-long strands, the sort found in old-style Italian delis. Fewer strands mean less fumbling.

IVORY TURBANS OF SHRIMP AND PASTA Unsalted butter, softened Coarse sea salt 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 ounces spaghetti 1 1/2 pounds medium-size shrimp in shells, peeled and deveined, shells reserved Sea salt Freshly ground white pepper 1/4 cup heavy whipping cream Sauce 1 tablespoon fresh white truffle shavings, or 1 small bunch fresh chervil or flat-leaf parsley leaves

Generously butter insides of 6 (3 1/2-inch) savarin or ring molds with pastry brush, using about 2 tablespoons butter. Chill molds in refrigerator until butter is firm, about 15 minutes.

Bring large pot water to boil. Add 1 tablespoon sea salt per quart of water. Add olive oil and spaghetti and cook 6 minutes. Remove from heat and let spaghetti stand in water 1 minute. Drain, refresh under cold running water, drain again and set aside. Cover spaghetti with plastic wrap so it does not dry out.

Separate out 1 strand of spaghetti. Beginning at bottom of mold, gently and tightly wind spaghetti around center tube, working way to top. Begin again at bottom, this time working in opposite direction, winding spaghetti strands toward top of outer edge. Repeat until each mold is lined with single concentric layer of spaghetti. Chill until butter is firm again, about 15 minutes.

Place shrimp on clean plate, pat dry with paper towels. With pastry brush, brush shrimp with about 3 tablespoons softened butter. Season to taste with salt and white pepper.

In food processor or blender, combine 4 ounces shrimp (about 4) with cream and blend until fluffy and mousse-like. Set aside.

Prepare 6 (4-inch) squares of foil. Brush 1 side of each with butter, and set aside.

With pastry brush, liberally brush chilled, lined molds with shrimp mousse, using all. Arrange about 3 whole shrimp side by side on top of mousse. (You may need to halve some shrimp to fit molds evenly.) Cover each mold with 1 piece foil, butter-side down. Transfer molds to refrigerator.

Fill bottom portion of vegetable steamer with enough water to steam several minutes. Remove molds from refrigerator, and with foil still in place, carefully arrange in single layer in top of steamer. Cover and steam until warmed through, about 3 minutes. (If necessary, steam in batches.)

To serve, remove foil from molds and carefully unmold each onto warmed salad plate. Spoon bit of Sauce in center of mold, and spoon remaining Sauce around edge. Sprinkle with freshly shaved white truffles. Serve immediately. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about: 868 calories; 327 mg sodium; 382 mg cholesterol; 78 grams fat; 16 grams carbohydrates; 28 grams protein; 0.87 gram fiber.

Sauce 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 small fennel bulb, minced 1 shallot, minced 1 small celery stalk, minced 1 small onion, minced Bouquet Garni Sea salt Shrimp shells, reserved from whole shrimp 3 cups heavy whipping cream Freshly ground white pepper 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, chilled 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice, about 1 teaspoon Cognac, about

In small skillet, combine 3 tablespoons olive oil with fennel, shallot, celery, onion and Bouquet Garni over moderately high heat. Season to taste with sea salt. Cook until vegetables are tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Set aside.

In large skillet, heat remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil over medium-high heat until oil is very hot, or almost smoking. Add shrimp shells. Shake pan over high heat to sear shells, cooking 3 to 4 minutes. (Do not be concerned if some shells stick to pan.) Add vegetables and cream. Lightly season to taste with salt and white pepper. Bring to boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer gently 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand 10 minutes.

Line fine-mesh sieve with moistened cheesecloth. Set sieve over large skillet. Strain contents of first skillet through sieve, pressing down to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard solids. Return strained sauce to small saucepan and bring to boil, reducing to about 1 cup. Remove from heat, whisk in butter. Season to taste with lemon juice and Cognac. Keep warm, loosely covered, in top of double boiler over low heat.

Bouquet Garni Several parsley stems Several celery leaves Several sprigs thyme 1 piece green part of leek

Wrap parsley stems, celery leaves and thyme sprigs in leek leaf and securely fasten with kitchen twine.