ON THE AVENUE : One Block of Forest in Laguna Beach Is a Feast for the Senses

Arty Forest Avenue in Laguna Beach is a natural for this column. Perhaps no one street in the entire county is as perfect for a walking tour.

You’ll discover a handful of potential three-hour visits on this street that’s known for creative shopping, eccentric art galleries and good eating. For an inaugural visit, I suggest the block between Pacific Coast Highway and Glenneyre Street, dense with attractions and a key spot for people-watching. Here are just a few of the choices available.

3:30 to 4: Get settled in at a patio table at Renaissance Cafe, a popular brick-walled hangout with a wine bar, fresh pastries and some of the best espresso for miles.

Most regulars sit and watch the tourists. Many a local artist has been known to sketch them in the process. Good coffees are sold by the pound too. My favorite drink, iced chocolate espresso, is $2.75.

4 to 4:15: Now cross the street and visit Rosovsky Gallery, one of the more unusual on the street. This broadly handsome gallery showcases three artists from the former Soviet Union. Sanal Boldirev’s work is primarily acrylic, Klimt-like stuff with classical themes. Oleg Zhivetin is a Cubist, using traditional Russian colors such as deep reds and bright ochers. Anton Arkhipov could be called a Modernist, but the ancient Byzantine symbols characterizing his paintings refute categorization.

The gallery also features a variety of marble and gypsum sculpture. Paintings range from $800 to $12,000.

4:15 to 4:45: To my mind, Khyber Pass is the most interesting shop on the street, as much gallery as commercial enterprise.

It is filled with Afghani and central Asian art, silk rugs from Kashmir, antique samovars and headpieces, ornately plated gold tea sets, jewel boxes, arcane musical instruments and even such obscure items as a beaded Turkoman wedding dress, a curiosity itself worth the visit.

Much of the high-priced stuff is showcased museum-style, Red Army souvenirs gleaming in glass cases, collectibles sitting on a rare tea cart. All in all, a colorful cultural encounter.

4:45 to 5: Adult kids will enjoy the Candy Baron, a new shop loaded with barrels of imported and old-fashioned bulk candies. There are more than 250 varieties, stuff you haven’t seen since you were a real kid, and old standbys that crop up regularly this time of year. Such candies as Mary Janes, horehound drops, Licorice Allsorts from England and differently flavored Tootsie Rolls are just a few of the things your mother wouldn’t let you bring in the house, all sold at the advertised $2.89 for a half-pound.

5 to 5:30: The lighthearted Pacific Gallery should bring a smile to your face. There are more than 60 artists represented, many of whom deal in broad-toothed, humorous subjects. Visual pun specialist Helen Weld is one of the best-known artists on display, and Cerri art dolls from France are a huge favorite. Original, bizarrely attractive cars of glazed clay share the gallery with unusual glass, ceramics, sculpture and jewelry.

5:30 to 6:30: Kachina may be the best restaurant in town, a tiny cellar where creative genius David Wilhelm pays homage to Southwestern cuisine in a highly personal fashion. It’s one door down from Pacific Gallery and rarely crowded at 5:30, which is opening time.

The restaurant has long been known for color-splashed dishes such as blue corn taquitos with smoked chicken and green chilies with avocado sauce.

Proprietor Nancy Wilhelm is changing the menu slightly, replacing swordfish with ahi and changing the patented cornmeal crust on the house relleno to a more traditional egg batter. Fabulous desserts.

Kachina is the essence of this magic street.