STRAIGHT & NARROW : Fall Fashions Herald the Return of Slim

When fashion followers speak of the column, they’re not talking architecture--they’re talking style. Column dresses, those simple gowns that fall from shoulder to toe in a clean, unbroken line, are one example of the slim silhouettes that are casting long shadows over fall fashions.

Just when designers had coaxed women back into short skirts, they’re back pushing skirts that fall almost to the ankles. To women who have come to enjoy showing off their legs, designers such as Donna Karan and Karl Lagerfeld have offered some consolation: slits along the front, sides or back that bare the leg up to the thigh.

Those who think the lower hemlines mean they can dig out the long skirts they have hanging in back of their closets are likely to commit a fashion felony. Compared with their predecessors, the new long skirts are leaner and longer by several inches--almost grazing the ankles.

“A lot of people will pull out their old long skirts with the fuller line. That’s not the look. It’s the long straight line with the slit,” says Linda Luna-Franks, spokeswoman for Nordstrom in Brea Mall, MainPlace/Santa Ana and South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa.

Slim silhouettes are influencing fashion across the board.

“You’re seeing it for evening, daytime and career,” Luna-Franks says.

Some samples: a DKNY wrap-style skirt ($225) in a taupe and black glen plaid with matching long jacket ($425); a black velvet skirt with a thigh-high front slit and jeweled belt by After Five ($168) paired with a black halter bodysuit by A.J. Bari ($160); Donna Karan’s black wool knit dress with long peekaboo sleeves that bare the shoulders ($740), and Bob Mackie’s black lace column gown over flesh-colored lining with a black bow on the shoulder ($1,350).

Women reluctant to turn their entire wardrobes over to the longer lengths are narrowing their choice to one piece: a long, slim skirt in black.

“They’re our No. 1 seller,” says Brenda Metchikian, director of the Fifth Avenue Club, an exclusive shopping service at Saks Fifth Avenue in South Coast Plaza.

“Any woman who isn’t sure if the long look will go ahead is investing in that.”

To show that a long black skirt is anything but dull, she pulls a fun biker-influenced skirt in black leather with a zipper slit by Valkko ($380), worn “always with a crisp white blouse” and black leather jacket.

For evening, lean column dresses that lack the fuss and froth of gowns from seasons past are the rage--especially in checkerboard colors of red or black. A winner in the category: Saks’ sleeveless red column gown with a low V back studded all over with red rhinestones by Pamela Dennis ($3,700).

“It’s very minimal. There’s not too much structure,” Metchikian says. “Column gowns don’t have sleeves or a belt, just a detail at the neckline or a simple back bow.”

Designer Lorie McCarthy, co-owner of Temptations in Huntington Beach, uses Lycra knits and stretch velvets to create contemporary dresses with long, clean lines.

“Longer looks are slenderizing, and not just for models,” McCarthy says. “They’re sexy but classy.”

Often her creations have just one unusual detail to draw the eye. One black Lycra dress that stops just above the ankles has a sheer black nylon top with a swatch of fabric that knots over the bust ($180). A line of dresses in black, burgundy, emerald green or bronze stretch velvet feature a crisscross back detail, available in November for about $175.

The move toward slim, slender silhouettes is a backlash of sorts to the shapeless, flowing dresses that dominated the runways in past seasons.

“We just came out of a period where everything was real boxy. Everyone was hiding under baby doll dresses,” says Shannon O’Neill, fashion buyer for SUO, a contemporary women’s clothing store in Westminster Mall. “Fashion is extremes. . . .”

For the holidays, SUO is carrying sleeveless sheaths with low square necklines or high rounded necks with deep V backs in solid crepes and floral velvets ($120).

“Because the look is so simple and clean, women will invest more in accessories,” O’Neill predicts. In Los Angeles the sheaths are being worn with cowboy boots and motorcycle jackets; in more conservative Orange County, pumps and a long strand of pearls are preferred.

The wrong accessories can wreck the simplicity of the elongated styles.

When wearing a slim skirt, for example, the freshest way to show off the look is to wear platform shoes or boots, Luna-Franks says.

“People tend to grab their flats, but you want something that will extend the line,” she says.

She also recommends wearing opaque stockings that match the outfit so one doesn’t break up the color.

Finally, pair a slitted skirt with a short jacket, blouse or long belted jacket--anything that won’t ruin the outfit’s narrow lines. A sure way to spoil the lean look: Throw a bulky jacket or sweater over a slim skirt.

“You’ll look frumpy,” Luna-Franks says.