RESTAURANTS / Max Jacobson : You Can Make New Friends and Dine Handsomely at This Trattoria

Three waiters wearing T-shirts wheeled out the giant, flaming tiramisu , and burst into a round of “ ‘appy bearday “ in lusty baritone. Two tables down, an animated group of Italians shouted their approval, gesturing wildly with their hands. If you listened hard enough through the din, you could even hear the voice of chef Massimo Navaretta in the kitchen, singing a different tune along with a Cielentano tape.

This is what it is like every night at Scampi, the brilliant new trattoria in a Costa Mesa neighborhood. It’s as if they had ripped up part of a Neapolitan sidewalk and planted it smack on Newport Boulevard. No wonder the locals have discovered it so quickly.

Naples is the hometown of chef Navaretta, who operates the place along with brother Fernando and sister Antoinetta. Together, they have given the place a strong southern Italian accent, complete with red sauce, olive oil and lots of garlic. Before coming to Costa Mesa, Navaretta apprenticed 5 years in Switzerland, had his own restaurant--Guido’s--in New Haven, and worked at Boh! in Santa Monica. He’s a good-natured man with a surprisingly light culinary touch.

His dining room is dark, cramped and noisy; old fishnets and lanterns hang from low ceilings and patched walls, and the only places to sit are on faded banquettes and rickety wooden chairs. There is almost no space between tables, so you’re bound to make a new friend or two before the evening is over. Come prepared to socialize. You’ll probably have no choice.

“Have the steamed clams, they’re wonderful,” said the pretty woman at the next table as we opened up our menus. How could we resist? “Have you ever eaten here before?” she continued, urging us to experience all of her favorite dishes.

These included zuppa di vongole --steamed Manila clams in garlic and white wine--flavored with an unusual combination of parsley, basil, and fresh white pepper. It’s quite the best soup the house has to offer, and you’ll want to mop up every bit with the crusty house bread. You’ll find the soup listed at the bottom of the appetizer section, the only part of the menu with occasional lapses. Along with a first-rate carpaccio there’s a rather ordinary mozzarella caprese (the cheese is on the tough side), and a bean-less, slightly watery minestrone. But it’s all uphill from there.

A salad called spinaci e rugola (spinach and arugula with a surprise addition of radicchio, a sprinkling of toasted pine nuts and some grated fresh Parmesan) is a prime example. Red and green, it’s a stunning combination of crunch and class, and may be the best thing the restaurant has to offer. Insalata girasole is also wonderful--”sunflowers” of Belgian endive, radicchio and arugula.

Navaretta’s pastas are all terrific. Except for the tortellini and the aromatically spiced ravioli he buys from a lady named Iolanda, he uses dried pasta. Nevertheless, due to the inspired sauces, these turn out better than the fresh noodles served in most places.

Timballo di verdure (a flat noodle layered with fresh ricotta, vegetables and a delicate pink cream tomato sauce) is one of the most irresistible pasta dishes I’ve ever encountered. It looks like lasagna, but it is incomparably light, the lightest pasta at Scampi, and it cuts like a souffle. Penne putanesca is tubes of pasta smothered in a rich sauce made from capers, olives, anchovies and plum tomatoes; this is Neapolitan cooking at its earthiest. Tagliolini ai salmone shows a Northern influence; this is flat noodles in a slightly pink sauce strongly flavored with vodka and a generous amount of minced salmon.

After the pasta course you’ll discover why the restaurant is named Scampi. Italian scampi are larger and more strongly flavored than American shrimp, and chef Navaretta imports them twice a week (Tuesdays and Fridays). They are often sold out.

He grills them all’aglio (in garlic sauce), or stews them diavola (in a spicy marinara sauce). Either way they bring the taste of Naples along with a big, robust, melt-in-the-mouth appeal. But if you don’t feel like shellfish, the grigliata di carne (an Italian-style mixed grill) might be the safest bet. A tender lamb chop shares a large plate with a fine, fatty sausage, grilled chicken with lots of rosemary, a medallion of beef, grilled cabbage and eggplant. The usual veal dishes are available; the best I’ve tried was scalloppine al limone made with lemon butter and white wine. There are also fresh fish, which vary nightly.

You don’t need to be celebrating a birthday to enjoy the frothy tiramisu at dessert. The same is true for tartuffo , a rum-flavored dark chocolate ball of ice cream that explodes with intensity and richness. Zabaglione , the whipped dessert made from Marsala, egg yolk and sugar, is served in a tall glass with ladyfinger-like cookies called Savoyarde. It makes a delicate, out-of-character finale to a boisterous, exuberant evening.

Scampi is moderately priced for its good, honest cooking. Appetizers and salads are $2.50 to $6.95. Pasta dishes are $6.95 to $10.95. Main dishes are $11.95 to $15.95. There is a small, pleasant selection of Italian wines on the back of the menu.

SCAMPI

1576 Newport Blvd., Costa Mesa

(714) 645-8560

Open Monday-Friday for lunch, 11:30-3; nightly for dinner, 5:30-10 (until 11 on weekends).

Visa, MasterCard and American Express accepted.