Squid : Appreciative fans say tasty mollusk is an inexpensive delicacy offering high-protein, low-fat meat as well as an interesting texture

Visualize the squid. The wrong-side out mollusk with its “plastic” shell inside its tubelike form. You can call it calamari, if that adds any class. Some think it’s an ugly creature with “scary” tentacles, big bulging eyes and a mottled gold and purplish brown body. Without even being tasted, the poor little sea creature is condemned as slimy . . . yucky.

And sometimes, even if it has been sampled, the squid still suffers the unjust reputation of being tough and chewy. “Like rubber bands,” some people complain.

“People get scared; they think you’re trying to give them a plague,” said Michael Feig, caterer and herb grower from Tarzana who also is a seafood instructor at Ma Cuisine Cooking School in Newport Beach. “I use more of the fillets because I have a hard time selling them the tubes, and when they see the tentacles . . . they say, ‘Oh, no, no, no!’ ”

So why buy squid? Let’s get a differing opinion from the other side of the population, the squid lovers. They’ll give you nothing but praises about this inexpensive delicacy, one of the best buys in seafood these days. Avid fans glorify the squid’s lovely delicate texture, its nutritious high-protein and low-fat attributes. Its slightly firm and sweetish tasting meat so resembles abalone that often squid is referred to as “poor man’s abalone.”

“The first time I met the squid was on a cold, moonlight night on the Monterey Bay,” writes Isaac Cronin in his book “The International Squid Cookbook” (Aris Books: $5.95). “Our fishing boat, ‘The Three Sisters,’ caught 20 tons in its nets. I took a few pounds home and made myself a simple saute. To my surprise, the squid were delicious. From that day I became a passionate lover of squid.”

A collective sampling of squid advocates can be found in the more than 20,000 people that are expected to attend the Great Monterey Squid Festival on the Monterey peninsula Memorial Day weekend.

“This will be our fourth year,” said Bob Massaro, president of Kiwanis Club of Monterey, the group sponsoring the event. “Every year we draw more people. I think it’s the fascination with squid. We have about 50 booths that sell squid, from breaded, fried, marinated, flambeed, Chinese-style, Greek-style to squid on pasta, pizza . . . but one of the most popular attractions is the demonstration of how to clean and prepare squid for cooking.”

At the Hollywood Diner, there’s a big turnover of orders for their addictive French-fried calamari, which is dipped in a flour and beer batter, says executive chef Konstantin Schonbachler.

“Freshness of the calamari is definitely responsible for its good taste,” the young Swedish chef said. To keep a tender delicate texture, he said: “The squid should be fried very quickly and the oil should be very hot. The longer you cook it the tougher it gets.” The diner serves the seafood in a basket of onion rings and zucchini sticks and pots of a tangy eggplant dip, tartar sauce and an orangy cocktail sauce.

Help for the Industry

The fact that more calamari (whether in the form of steaks or fried rings) are being served in more restaurants and at catered parties has helped the industry tremendously, according to Vince de Corpo, president of International Pacific Seafood, a seafood brokerage in El Monte.

“Squid keeps continuing to increase in volume and popularity; sales have more than doubled in the past year,” he said. “Because more people associate squid as ugly, the industry has also leaned toward calling it calamari, the Italian name.” Calamari, he said, gives people a picture of ivory white boneless flesh rather than tubes and tentacles.

In Asia, people don’t care about its unsightly form, tentacles and all. Some even go for a chewy texture. They leave the outer colored covering on and some of the white “fat” inside, as well as the ink sac that ejects the desired blackness in their stews.

“Eighty percent of our local squid, which is the smaller, more delicate variety, is sold to Japan, and Japanese people love it,” Massaro of Monterey said.

On a visit to Tokyo last spring, one of the more common food sights I saw in the streets was the peddling of barbecued squid on skewers. Grilled alongside corn, they were brushed with a sweet teriyaki sauce.

In the Philippines, what might be for a tourist an unpleasant smell wafting in the streets is, to the native, a delicious aroma of dried squid being toasted on the grill. Sampling food along the strip of booths that line the bank of the estero (water channel) in Manila, we found stuffed squid set on a bed of ice, filled with a ground pork, shrimp (or crab) and a pea mixture, ready to be deep-fried for a customer. Because the oil in the huge wok was extremely hot, it took but a few minutes to cook the squid. The taste is still a delicious memory.

Strong Attachments

Getting hooked on the flavor of calamari can be easy. For some people, strong attachments to the seafood have developed while abroad. Living for seven years in Rome, Meda Band, owner of MedaBella Custom Catering in Los Angeles, learned to cook calamari the Italian way.

“I’ve had a lot of success turning people into liking calamari , and I find that very rewarding,” she said. “Once they get over the rubber-band phobia, they love it. Calamari is cheap, and yet so versatile. With the labor that takes to prepare it, the cost gets up there with other fish.”

For Patrick Terrail, owner of the Hollywood Diner, calamari was a natural item to serve at his popular restaurant, which is now also serving complete brunch menus on weekends.

“I grew up eating calamari in Greece,” the restaurateur said. “I remember we had to pound them on the rocks 49 times. I like them prepared the simple way, the simpler the food the better it tastes. I also like it cold, in salads or hot, stuffed with rice.”

“My favorite part is the tentacles,” said Linda Zimmerman, a free-lance public relations consultant who traveled and lived in Europe. “I dance with joy when I have them. I do a really interesting arrabbiata with baby squid; it’s a classic dish of Roman the trattorias that use hot peppers.” Her recipe is given on the following pages along with many other interesting contributions.

The most common form of commercial squid is frozen. Flash-freezing makes possible the retention of freshness in the domestic or international transport of squid. Equipped to process 100 tons of Monterey squid daily, the modern processing plant of the newly established California Calamari Corp. in Oxnard blast-freezes the fresh catch, then glazes it for protection against burn and dehydration in cold storage. Boats with refrigerated sea-water brine systems also ensure freshness.

“Squid is well preserved through freezing because it’s all protein with no blood, which is what breaks down in fish, changing the flavor,” said John Borman, California Calamari president.

A fisherman for 18 years, Borman explained how squid is caught: “We catch about 50 tons of squid every night, from November to May. The spawning mass of squid are caught at nighttime by lights . . . they vertically migrate towards the light.”

Monterey Is Main Port

In Monterey, which is still the main port for squid, fishing is conducted almost completely with lampara nets. In Monterey Bay, it is now illegal to use floodlights or torchlights.

Stimulating more production is the widening appeal of pre-cleaned mantles (tubes) and tentacles now economically feasible for customers. Installed last fall and developed through UC Davis, the new automated cleaning machines produce the hollow ivory tubes, which cost more than the whole uncleaned squid but not as much as the calamari fillets (or steaks). The fillet come from the large squid, which averages about five pounds but can go up to 30 pounds.

Originally caught off the Pacific Coast of Mexico in the Gulf of California, the giant squid disappeared from Mexican waters after El Nino (a warm Pacific current) shifted the ocean habitat. The sources at present are the Falkland Islands and off the coasts of Taiwan and Japan.

Most of the squid caught are brought back to Taiwan, where they are tenderized and cut into pancake shapes and then shipped in 2 1/2- and five-pound boxes. The retail supermarkets repackage the calamari into smaller trays for the average consumer.

Aside from being economical and abundant, another reason to choose squid is its versatility in a variety of dishes. It easily takes on the flavor of other ingredients added to it, so decide whether you want the squid flavor or the flavor of another ingredient, be it wine, an herb or another vegetable or seafood combination.

Brentwood cooking school teacher Judith Pacht shared a delicious squid recipe here with Pernod, which is something new. The combination was accented with Chinese pea pods (she also suggested asparagus or fiddlehead ferns). Pacht plans to include the recipe in her forthcoming cookbook to be published by HP Books.

In testing the following recipes, one important thing we discovered was that the squid changes into a very soft texture (which may not be desirable to some who want to savor a slightly firm feel) when it is marinated overnight with an acid such as lemon juice or vinegar. The acid also makes it a little bitter. In his cookbook, Cronin advises that “Marinades do help the flavor of squid, but only up to a point. . . . Half an hour is probably the optimum time.”

For more information about the Great Monterey Squid Festival over Memorial Day weekend, call (408) 649-6547.

FRIED CALAMARI IN BEER BATTER

(Hollywood Diner)

3 pounds cleaned squid with tentacles

8 ounces whole-wheat or all-purpose flour

2 eggs

1 (12-ounce) can light or dark beer

1 teaspoon onion powder

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper or to taste

1/2 teaspoon salt

All-purpose flour

Oil for deep-frying

Seasoned salt

Lemon wedges

Eggplant relish, tartar sauce or cocktail sauce

Cut squid into 1-inch rings. Combine whole-wheat flour, eggs, beer, onion powder, garlic powder, cayenne and salt.

Dip small handful of squid rings and tentacles in all-purpose flour. Heat oil to 375 degrees. Deep-fry squid 1 1/2 minutes, separating pieces with tongs so they don’t clump. Drain and repeat with remaining squid. Garnish with lemon wedges and serve with eggplant relish, cocktail sauce or tartar sauce, if desired. Makes about 12 servings.

Note: If batter seems too thick, add a little more beer.

BOURBON STREET CALAMARI

(Michael Feig)

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 1/2 cups chopped red onions

1 1/2 cups chopped celery

1 cup chopped seeded Anaheim chiles or green pepper

1 cup chopped peeled carrots

2 cups peeled and chopped tomatoes

1 jalapeno chile, seeded and chopped

2 tablespoons chopped garlic

2 1/2 cups chicken broth

2 cups tomato sauce

1 teaspoon dried oregano, crushed

2 bay leaves

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon paprika

1 bunch fresh basil leaves, cut into strips

4 to 6 calamari fillets or 3 pounds cleaned whole squid

Fine dry bread crumbs

2 to 4 tablespoons oil

Hot cooked saffron-flavored rice

Melt butter in large saucepan. Add onions, celery, Anaheim chiles and carrots. Cook until onions are translucent. Stir in tomatoes, jalapeno chile, garlic, chicken broth, tomato sauce, oregano, bay leaves, salt, cayenne, paprika and basil. Bring to boil. Simmer 30 minutes. Remove bay leaves and reserve sauce. (Sauce can be made ahead and refrigerated until needed.)

When ready to serve, dredge calamari fillets in bread crumbs. Saute in hot oil 1 minute on each side. Place 1/2 cup sauce on top of calamari fillets. Serve on or with saffron rice. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

CALAMARI MONTEREY

(Michael Feig)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

6 green onions, chopped

4 cloves garlic, chopped

2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped

8 fresh basil leaves, cut into strips

3/4 cup dry white wine

16 marinated artichoke hearts, chopped

Salt, pepper

4 calamari fillets

Fine dry bread crumbs

3 tablespoons olive oil

Heat butter in medium saucepan until it begins to bubble. Add green onions and saute 1 minute. Stir in chopped garlic and saute briefly. Add tomatoes and basil and saute 1 minute. Blend in white wine and artichoke hearts. Bring to boil. Reduce by about half. Simmer and reduce by half again. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Season calamari fillets with salt and pepper to taste. Coat with bread crumbs. Heat olive oil in skillet and saute calamari fillets 1 minute on each side. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Place on plate. Add sauce and serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

WHITE GHOSTS

2 pounds cleaned whole squid

2 egg whites

3 large cloves garlic, minced

Salt

8 dried shiitake mushrooms

2 tablespoons vegetable oil, about

1/2 teaspoon minced ginger root

1 to 2 serrano chiles, minced

1 tablespoon cornstarch

3/4 cup chicken broth

1 teaspoon soy sauce

Sesame oil

2 green onions, finely chopped

Scrape squid of all outer purplish covering, leaving white bodies. Combine egg whites, 1 clove garlic and salt to taste. Marinate squid about 30 minutes in mixture. Soak shiitake mushrooms in warm water. Drain and remove hard stems. Leave whole or cut into quarters.

Heat vegetable oil in wok or deep skillet. Saute remaining 2 cloves garlic, ginger and serrano chile 1 to 2 minutes. Add marinated squid and stir-fry 30 seconds to 1 minute, just until squid turns opaque white. Do not overcook. Quickly remove from wok. Add shiitake mushrooms to wok and saute 3 minutes, adding more vegetable oil, if necessary.

Dissolve cornstarch in chicken broth. Add to mushrooms with soy sauce. Cook until just thickened. Season to taste with salt and sesame oil. Remove from heat and spoon around squid. Garnish with chopped green onions. Makes 6 servings.

SQUID SAN JOSE

(“The International Squid Cookbook”)

1 (16-ounce) can whole mild green chiles

1/2 pound Jack cheese

3 pounds squid, cleaned and left whole

Salt, pepper

1 cup canned tomatoes, cut in halves and drained

Juice of 2 lemons

Slice chiles lengthwise into pieces 2 to 3 inches long and 1/4 inch wide. Cut cheese into finger-size pieces. Stuff each squid with 1 piece each of green chile and cheese. Seal ends of each with wood pick.

Layer squid in baking dish. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Cover with tomatoes and lemon juice and bake at 350 degrees 20 minutes. Makes 4 servings.

ORIENTAL CALAMARI SALAD

(Michael Feig)

3/4 cup sesame oil

3 tablespoons ginger root, peeled and chopped

1/2 teaspoon salt

Dash white pepper

4 calamari fillets, cut into strips, or 8 to 10 whole cleaned squid, cut into rings

Juice of 1 lemon

3 heads Belgian endive

2 bunches spinach, cut into strips

1/4 teaspoon sesame seeds

Dressing

2 tablespoons oil

4 tomatoes

Combine sesame oil, ginger, salt and white pepper in non-metal mixing bowl. Mix well and place in dish with calamari strips. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Add lemon juice.

Shred heads of endive and reserve 5 leaves for garnish. Combine shredded endive with spinach and sesame seeds in large mixing bowl. Add 1/4 cup Dressing and mix well. Place in center of serving plates. Remove calamari strips from marinade and saute in hot oil very quickly, about 1 minute. Arrange strips on top of salad and place 5 reserved endive leaves around each plate.

Cut 5 thin strips from 1 tomato and place 1 strip in each endive leaf. Chop remainder of tomato slices and place on top of salad. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

Note: This dish may be served as lunch main course salad or may be slightly modified for dinner appetizer.

Dressing

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons rice vinegar

1/4 cup light soy sauce

1/4 cup olive olive oil

White pepper

Combine rice vinegar and soy sauce in bowl. In steady stream, whip in olive oil. Season to taste with white pepper.

SQUID WITH PERNOD

(Judith Pacht)

1 pound squid, cleaned, with tentacles removed

12 fiddlehead fern tips or 24 Chinese pea pods or 24 slender asparagus tips, cut into 3-inch lengths

3 tablespoons butter

5 strips sweet red pepper

1 tablespoon minced garlic

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Pernod

Cut squid into strips about 2 inches long and 1/2 inch thick. Wash and pat dry fiddlehead ferns. (If using Chinese pea pods, remove strings. If using asparagus, peel beneath heads and blanch in boiling salted water 3 to 5 minutes, then refresh in cold water.)

Melt 1 tablespoon butter in skillet. Slowly saute red pepper strips until begin to soften. Set aside for garnish.

Add remaining 2 tablespoons butter to skillet and saute garlic over medium-high heat 1 to 2 minutes or until tender. Add squid strips and saute 1 minute. Add fiddlehead fern. Saute 2 to 3 minutes or until vegetable is tender-crisp, turning occasionally. Add about 3 tablespoons Pernod. Remove mixture to heated platter and keep warm.

Add 2/3 cup Pernod to pan and scrape up any bits clinging to bottom. Over high heat reduce liquid by half. Pour over squid. Garnish with reserved sauteed red pepper strips. Makes 6 appetizer servings.

Note: Fiddlehead fern, available from about April to July, is coiled shoot of ostrich fern. It is available at Irvine Ranch markets and other specialty markets.

BARBECUED CALAMARI AND PEPPERS

(Meda Band)

1 to 2 pounds squid

Juice of 1 lemon

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 to 3 cloves garlic, minced

Salt, pepper

1 sweet yellow pepper, quartered

1 sweet red pepper, quartered

Radicchio or butter lettuce

Clean squid, then cut off tentacles above eye and reserve. Stuff squid with tentacles. Combine lemon juice, olive oil, garlic and salt and pepper to taste. Marinate squid in mixture about 30 minutes. (Marinating squid too long in any acid mixture will make it too soft and slightly bitter.) Thread each stuffed squid in skewer.

Place yellow and red peppers on grill and barbecue over hot coals until skins are blistered, brushing occasionally with squid marinade. Peel off skins from peppers.

Place squid on grill and barbecue just until golden brown, about 1 to 2 minutes on each side, depending on heat. Brush frequently with marinade. Do not overcook. Serve with grilled peppers and garnish with leaves of radicchio or butter lettuce. Makes 4 servings.

CALAMARI-PENNE ALL’ARRABIATA

(Linda Zimmerman)

1 pound whole squid

1/4 cup olive oil

4 cloves garlic, minced

3 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

1 large onion, chopped

3 pounds tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped, or 1 (35-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes, chopped

1 1/2 teaspoons crushed hot dried chiles

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Sugar

1 pound penne noodles, cooked and drained

Grated Parmesan cheese

Clean squid. Cut into 1/2- to 1-inch rings. Chop tentacles.

Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in large skillet over high heat. Saute 2 cloves garlic and squid 1 to 2 minutes. Add parsley. Remove from pan and set aside.

Heat remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in saucepan and saute remaining garlic and onion until tender. Stir in tomatoes, chiles and salt and pepper to taste. Cover and simmer for about 30 minutes or until thickened.

Add sugar to taste. When ready to serve, toss in squid mixture. Spoon over hot pasta and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese. Makes 4 servings.

Food styling by MINNIE BERNARDINO and DONNA DEANE / Los Angeles Times