A short drive from Seattle, the hiking is spectacular

My son, Graeme, took a look at the rock sloping for 50 feet above us and asked, “Can I try it?�

We were a quarter of the way through a loop in Washington’s Teanaway region, 120 miles east of Seattle, that would take us to spectacular Lake Ingalls, over Fortune Peak and back to our camp at Lake Ann.

“Sure,� I said. “I’ll spot you.�

Up he went, as quick as a squirrel, around an overhang and on to easier ground. I realized that unless I wanted a long detour, I’d have to follow my then-17-year-old son. I did, with a gulp of concern at the start and a sigh of relief at the end.

Half an hour later, as we sat having lunch in the sun-drenched saddle between South Ingalls and North Ingalls peaks, he turned to me and said, “Dad, this is one of the best days ever.�

This summer’s devastating wildfires in eastern Washington have cast a smoky pall over some of the state’s premier hiking destinations, but those trails have been largely untouched by flames. So “best days� can be had in abundance throughout the Cascade Mountains, on trails within easy driving distance of the city. And you don’t have to scramble up steep rock to experience them.

Lake Ingalls

The route we were traveling in the Teanaway (pronounced tee-ANN-away), in the Wenatchee National Forest, was a clockwise loop from the Ingalls Way trailhead at the end of the road up the north fork of Teanaway River. But the direct route to Lake Ingalls is shorter, with good trail all the way, and hits many of the highlights.

It’s hard to say what’s best about a trip up to Ingalls in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness — that glorious moment when you pop over the ridge and 9,415-foot Mt. Stuart is revealed in all its majesty, lunch beside Ingalls Lake, the après-hike dip in the crystal-clear Teanaway River to wash away the trail dust or the blue-cheese-and-grilled-onion burger at the historic Brick tavern in Roslyn — which stood in as the Alaskan town Cicely in the ‘90s TV show “Northern Exposure� — on the way home. Partake in all of these, and you’ve got yourself one magical day.

But it’ll be a long day. There’s a nearly three-hour drive southeast of Seattle across Snoqualmie Pass on Interstate 90, with a quick stop for coffee and croissants at the Cle Elum Bakery in the eponymous former mining town, then up into Teanaway country. The blacktop peters out at the 29 Pines Campground, where the sometimes rough gravel road takes over. You’ll pass other hiking opportunities, but resist their siren call and drive to road’s end.

Enchantments

From there, you have options. Most straightforward is the trail to Lake Ingalls (nine miles round trip, 2,500- feet elevation gain) at the edge of Washington’s legendary Enchantments range, the views getting better with each step as you rise up to Ingalls Pass, with the culminating moment with Mt. Stuart. From the pass, the trail dips down to flower-filled Headlight Basin before its last jaunt to the lake.

Or go a shorter distance (five miles round trip, 2,100-feet gain) on a branch to Longs Pass just to see the view and perhaps some mountain goats — be careful not to let them get too close.

Info: Forest Service, 1.usa.gov/X9LFEi; Washington Trails Assn., bit.ly/VbB3D0

Colchuck Lake

As an introduction to the Enchantments range, it’s hard to beat Colchuck Lake, its glacier-fed water shimmering below the razor edges of Dragontail and Colchuck peaks.

It’s about a three-hour drive to get there, traveling about 30 miles north from Seattle on Interstate 5, then heading 100 miles east on U.S. 2, across Stevens Pass to the Bavarian-themed town of Leavenworth.

Along the way in Tumwater Canyon, you’ll drive through the recent burn from the Chiwaukum fire complex — a sobering reminder of the wildfire’s power.

At the entrance to Leavenworth, turn right up Icicle Creek Road, then turn left at Forest Service Road 7601 for the last 3 1/2 gravel miles to the Lake Stuart trailhead.

A demanding four-plus miles of hiking takes you up the Mountaineer Creek drainage, then south for the final push to Colchuck. Views are limited on the way up, but the trail through forests and meadows, over a fabulous log bridge and across rocky jumbles has its own Zen. And at the end … immense payoff.

Last summer, my then-18-year-old daughter, Leah, and I shouldered day packs and set off late in the morning.

She outpaced me on the way up, and I found her standing, looking at the lake. We made our way to a stony outcrop and sat wordlessly. What can one say in the presence of such beauty?

Instead of making conversation, you can scan the surrounding peaks for climbers, do some scrambling along the steep lakeshore or even go for a swim if you’re made of stern stuff. On the far end of the lake, you might see backpackers toiling on the long and dangerous slog up and over super-steep Aasgard Pass to the heart of the Enchantments.

The number of overnight visitors to the Enchantments is limited, but if you covet a night at Colchuck Lake or beyond, show up early at the Forest Service station in Leavenworth to nab one of the few permits available each day; you may not get your first choice of camping zone, but it’s hard to find a bad spot in the Enchantments.

If you’re not among those fortunate ones, content yourself with the lovely day hike and the knowledge that you’ll be able to raise a pint at Gustav’s in Leavenworth at day’s end.

Info: Forest Service, 1.usa.gov/1myam2X, 1.usa.gov/1myaS0H; Washington Trail Assn., bit.ly/1pIxqQj

Barclay Lake

If your time is limited or if you like your outdoors in more measured doses, the out and back to Barclay Lake wraps the Northwest hiking experience in a tidy four total miles, with just 200 feet of elevation gain. But this walk doesn’t skimp: You’ll traverse atmospheric forest, pass over a two-log bridge above a stream and finally arrive at the lake, nestled below the sinister north face of Baring Mountain.

From Everett, head east on U.S. 2. At about mile 42, turn left at the Der Baring store onto Forest Road 6024, cross the railroad tracks and drive to the parking at road’s end.

This is a fine trail for young children, as it meanders gently up and down for much of the way before the last little rise to the lake. It’s in great shape, thanks to the ministrations of the Washington Trails Assn., the nonprofit whose volunteers help to keep the state’s backcountry within reach.

On a fine summer’s day, you can picnic on the beach as you ponder the bravery of the few climbers who have succeeded on the face of Baring Mountain above you, then perhaps try your fly-fishing skills.

Afterward, stop at Der Baring store for pie and a milkshake. The previous owners took the stuffed mountain-goat heads with them when they left a few years back, but there’s still enough railroad-and-logging history in the place to make it a good pit stop.

Farther west on U.S. 2, you can pull off at Zeke’s drive-in to grab a burger and fries, sit at the outdoor picnic tables and ponder your day’s adventure. Closer to Seattle, the Sultan Bakery may not look like much from the highway, but locals love it for its excellent bread. My daughter would be disappointed if a trip on 2 didn’t include one of the bakery’s superb BLTs.

Info: Forest Service, 1.usa.gov/1pjK1uk

If you go

THE BEST WAY TO SEATTLE

From LAX, Alaska, Virgin America and Delta offer nonstop service to Seattle; Southwest offers direct service (stop, no change of planes); and Delta, Alaska, Southwest, Virgin America and United offer connecting service (change of planes). Restricted round-trip fares begin at $308, including taxes and fees.

Lake Ingalls: Nine miles round trip; 2,500-feet elevation gain, high point 6,500 feet. Best hiking months July to October. Headlight Basin is a particularly popular place in early to mid-October as the larch trees turn to gold.

Colchuck Lake: Eight and a half miles round trip; 2,200-feet elevation gain, high point 5,600 feet. Best hiking months July to October.

Barclay Lake: Four miles round trip; 200-feet elevation gain, high point 2,400 feet. Best hiking months June to October.

A Northwest Forest Annual Pass or a Forest Service day pass is required to park at the trail heads and rangers are indeed watching. They can be had at sporting goods stores and elsewhere. In addition, the Ingalls and Colchuck hikes enter the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, and each group of hikers must self-register at the trail head and carry the tag with them.

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