RESTAURANT REVIEW:

My fondness of hamburger stands traces back to a lunch with my father when I was still a teenager.

He was at work in Glendale and I was a senior in high school. He wanted to bond with his son. I wanted to drive the hand-me-down Volkswagen bug he gave me and further my burgeoning sense of independence.

We met for lunch, just him and me, and it was the first time we had partaken in such an activity, just the two of us. It felt so grown up from my perspective. Just two men having a meal together, talking sports or whatever topic came up.

The burger stand was a little mom-and-pop place that had been outside the Sears in downtown Glendale for probably two generations. It was on the corner of a parking lot, with nowhere to sit except some stools at the counter.

We ate and talked, and when the meal was done, I went back to school and he went back to work.

The joke I have always said about my native California is that we can’t educate our kids, can’t solve traffic jams and we sit on an earthquake fault, but we can make a decent hamburger.

Bob’s Big Boy, Tommy’s and In-N-Out all originated in this state and got their roots as single proprietor stands.

The Bun and Burger is reminiscent of those burger stands that seem to be dying as so many parking lots and strip malls expand and conveniently forget about loyal tenants.

There are definitely no frills to the facility, and that is part of the allure. There is an order window outside manned by the same young woman who will wait on you if you walk inside.

There are some outside picnic-style metal tables and chairs. The weather was a little brisk, so I went inside. The dining area is decorated with red and white plastic tablecloths and comfortable plastic chairs. There must have been a sale on Coca-Cola memorabilia, because it seems to be everywhere on the walls. This matters little, because you aren’t interested in the décor; the food is the top priority.

This restaurant’s cuisine was obviously not fancy, but it is good, plentiful and inexpensive, three perfect qualities for such an establishment.

The cheeseburger combination is a deal at $4.59. There is also a double cheeseburger for 90 cents more and definitely worth the extra money.

The patties are thin but have decent flavor. Grilling them helps tremendously, though that is pretty standard at most places. They are put on a bun that has mayo, dill pickles and shredded lettuce.

My request was not on the menu, but that was not a problem. I wanted a pastrami cheeseburger.

They feature pastrami sandwiches, so I didn’t think they would deny my special order.

I was surprised that the pastrami was as lean as it was. Usually the meat at comparable places is filled with gristle, but this had none. It was quite good.

The fries are lightly deep-fried and are the steak fry variety. I like those better, especially when they are not overcooked.

What perturbed me a bit was that they charge 30 cents for dressing, so dipping my fries in Thousand Island dressing would have cost me.

In addition to the burgers there is a steak sandwich and a patty melt. I was surprised the steak sandwich was as good as it was. I was also surprised it was only $5.49 and came with fries and a medium drink.

There are plenty of other items on the menu besides red meat.

There is a chicken sandwich, a fish sandwich and a turkey breast sandwich. The lunch and dinner plates include shrimp, fish and chips, chicken strips, beef teriyaki and a burrito and two taquitos. None of them cost more than $6.

The shakes are a must have. Malts and floats are also available, but I would stick with the shakes. If you are feeling adventurous, try the pineapple.

There is a certain nostalgia in visiting a place like Bun and Burger.

The food won’t wow you, but it will fill you up and might even give you a lifelong memory as well.

BUN AND BURGER

ADDRESS: 17091 Newland St., Huntington Beach

PHONE: (714) 842-5241

SPECIALTY DISH: cheeseburger combination

ALCOHOL SERVED: none

ENTRÉE PRICE RANGE: $3.69 to $5.99

FAMILY FRIENDLY: yes

CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED: Cash only

RATING: *** out of 4

JOHN REGER reviews local restaurants and may be contacted at [email protected] or P.O. Box 2984, Seal Beach, CA 90740.