THE CROWD:

She has been at the helm for 12 years. Newport Beach grand dame Iréne Mathews of Harbor Ridge has championed one of the elite dining societies on the West Coast, Chaine des Rotisseurs of Newport Beach. Mathews retired from her post at the head of the formidable table recently, with her wine expert physician husband, Bill Mathews, at her side. The couple has been instrumental in developing the organization for more than a decade in Orange County.

“Iréne has given her all to the Chaine,” Bill offered, adding, “Her passion for the promotion of fine cuisine and the camaraderie of participants has guided her in this pursuit.” Mathews was honored with the Chaine Silver Star of Excellence, the organization’s high honor, seldom awarded. Over her years of service as the “Bailli,” or president, of the Newport Chapter, Iréne has been a driving force behind national and international dining events in Boston, Las Vegas, Carmel and Paris, in addition to overseeing all the local events each year.

Her final evening of service unfolded at the Balboa Bay Club & Resort as some 100 Chaine members and guests came for a dinner suitable for a royal table. Chef de Cuisine Josef Lageder supervised the BBC culinary team. Bruce Rabanit served as sommelier, and the dining room was in the hands of Dieter Hissin, director de restauration and Naji Allouche, maitre d’ hotel.

Mathews held back tears of joy as she bid her guests farewell and turned over the charge to David Weinberg, who was joined by his wife, Debra, and mother, Barbara, who had flown in from the East Coast for the affair. The evening also included the induction of select new members of the dining society, including Paula Bastiaanese, Gerard Bastiaanese, Barry Steele and Donald Williams.

Black-tie dinner guests attending were Newport Coast’s elegant couple Patricia and Robert Marshall; the beautiful Loretta Haugen; social activist Dee Highby; one of the region’s most interesting and accomplished couples, Pat and Dick Allen; and major dining aficionado Henry Schielein and his lovely wife, Carol. The celebration began with a Laurent-Perrier champagne reception on the terrace of the Grill Room overlooking Newport Harbor. Wait staff passed silver trays ladened with hors d’ oeuvres prior to a six-course dinner paired with fine European wines.

John Cook served as “narrateur du vin” and did an outstanding job informing the crowd about the particulars pertaining to the food and wine graciously served. From foie gras to fruit de mer St. Jacques, from caviar to veal aux Morilles, the meal was beyond reproach. For those devoted to both the history and lost civility of fine dining, the Chaine is a ticket to a world gone and almost lost.

Most important, perhaps, besides a sincere dedication to promoting the finest culinary preparation and service of restaurateurs, hoteliers, and outstanding chefs and associated dining personnel, Chaine members also assist students in culinary training with scholarship support. Beyond that, Chaine membership is all about building bonds between people over the dining table. It is a centuries-old tradition interpreted for a modern world.

Farewell, Irene Mathews. Now you can enjoy the party without worrying about the details.

I know that Bill will certainly appreciate that part of your retirement!

THE CROWD runs Thursdays and Saturdays.