SURFING SOAPBOX: Alone with the waves

I’ve seen the sun rise before. I could see it a thousand more times, and it will never grow old. This morning it rose like a golden light beaming over the hills of San Jose Ixtapa, Mexico. Soon it was as if a veil had been removed and paradise was now at my fingertips, while I enjoyed my first cup of coffee.

Here in San Jose Ixtapa everything starts early, including the roosters that begin crowing as early as 3 a.m. The only reason I know is because I asked “” nothing but early nights here.

My normal days have been: up at 6 a.m., two cups of Joe, followed by a couple of hours of surfing. Head to town for a little lunch, followed by a trip to the Kaldi café for a little Internet use. Home for a nap, then another couple of hours of surfing. Dinner and then bed. Only to repeat again the following day.

I enjoy this easygoing way of life. In fact, I am at this moment sitting at my usual seat at the Kaldi cafe writing to you. My is mind clear once again after a good cleansing of surfing this morning in the 75 degree water, with a shoreline covered with palms and a lagoon that sits just south of the entrance of the beach.

You might just call this surfing spot the “end of the road,” because the road ends here where the beach begins. Last night while the sun was setting I watched a family of 14 enjoying fresh coconuts by the edge of the lagoon. With the youngsters playing in the water laughing and giggling, splashing around, it was a beautiful sight to watch.

Today is Monday, which only leaves me a couple more days. After being here for a week of a slower-paced way of life, I feel refreshed and clear-headed again.

It’s one of the greatest feelings in the world to be able “” in this day and age “” to find good waves with nobody else out. That really is the dream of every surfer.

Peace.

JAMES PRIBRAM is a Laguna Beach native, professional surfer and founder of the Aloha School of Surfing. He can be reached at Jamo@Aloha schoolofsurfing.com.