Morton’s is another world

Step through the doors at Morton’s, and you’ve entered an upscale cavernous vault -- another world really -- where a spiffily dressed wait staff greets you like you’re someone special, even if your name is not monogrammed on a private wine locker as for some of the customers.

You’ll be whisked to a club-like table, perfectly appointed with white linens, a manly steak knife, a glowing pewter pig lantern and sleek comfortable black leather chairs. Dark rich mahogany woods, colorful LeRoy Neiman serigraphs and flattering lighting makes the experience even richer. It’s like a modern version of a 1950s gentlemen’s club that equally welcomes women.

And for an establishment that prides itself on tradition, it’s going out on a limb by now offering weekday lunches. The menu is a perfect balance of Morton’s signature entrees and less-filling lunch dishes, including chopped salads, toasted sandwiches and creamy pasta dishes. Classic vegetable and potato side dishes are always available too. Favorites are a whopping, award-winning 13-ounce prime sirloin burger served with a choice of four different cheeses; sautéed mushrooms, onions, French fries and vegetable slaw ($13); a blackened mahi-mahi sandwich with citrus bean chutney ($14); and a grilled shrimp salad with hearts of palm, tender asparagus, tomato, crisp red pepper, and Asian dressing ($13).

Its newly renovated bar, renamed Bar 1221, is a relaxing place to meet for cocktails and a new Bar Bites menu. The bar features appetizer specials from 4:30 to 6:30 p.m.; and from 9:30 to 11 p.m. Monday through Friday. During the happy hour, oysters on the half shell are $1 each; colossal shrimp are $2 each; and Bar Bites are $3 a plate. Appetizers available only at the bar include a crab and artichoke dip with toasted French bread croutons; four petite filet mignon sandwiches; potato skins with melted cheddar cheese, bacon bits and chives; and crispy fried chicken strips.

Morton’s founders, the late Arnie Morton and Klaus Fritsch, met in Chicago at the Playboy Club. Morton was Hugh Hefner’s partner at the Playboy Club, and Fritsch was the executive chef. Together they combined talents to open Morton’s, an upscale steakhouse in Chicago in 1978 that still employs the original butcher in Illinois and buys its meats from the same purveyor for all locations.

Morton’s at South Coast Plaza Village and Las Vegas, just off the strip, are two of the highest volume locations in the chain. The success at South Coast Plaza Village is due in large part to the talents of general manager J.C. Clow, who goes out of his way to make guests feel welcome. Clow provides a staff with impeccable service and attention to detail. Executive chef Paul Avila prepares dishes that are consistent and exceptional.

At Morton’s, meats are all USDA Prime and prepared in a wet aging process rather than dry aging. Aging meats is critical to meat tenderness. Proponents of wet aging, which takes place in an airtight cryovac, say that it improves meat safety by eliminating exposure to bacteria that can occur during dry aging. Wet aging also allows meats to age without losing important moisture. It gives the meat more flavor and a less strong and gamey taste.

Morton’s state-of-the-art infrared broilers can heat up to 1,500 degrees. Chefs sear steaks from the top, as opposed to the bottom where juices can run out. Steaks are turned carefully only once, to ensure that flavorful juices stay in, making meats moist, tender and more flavorful.

Frank Sinatra helped put Morton’s on the map; he was a regular at its original Chicago location, and to pay homage to him, Morton’s pipes in the crooner’s classics. Morton’s is famous for its heavy-duty portions. There’s an enormous double porterhouse steak for two ($84) carved tableside; or an individual portion at ($42). Its Chicago-style, bone-in, rib-eye steak ($43) can’t be beat for flavor and tenderness. And the filet is 19 ounces of the leanest meat ($39).

Seafood connoisseurs will appreciate the tender jumbo lump crab cakes served with French fries and vegetable slaw ($23); and the excellent salmon fillet with beurre blanc ($26). The new lunch salad nicoise is a traditional French version with a nice portion of sushi-grad ahi ($18). On Friday, don’t miss the rich, puff-pastry, seafood shell special; it’s filled with sautéed lobster, scallops and shrimp in a lobster cream sauce ($20).

Save room for Morton’s famous hot chocolate cake. It takes 30 minutes to bake, but is worth the wait. It’s a molten-center, baked chocolate cake, dusted with powder sugar, fresh raspberries and served with Haagen-Dazs vanilla ice cream.

Three private dining rooms are perfect for boardroom meetings, parties and other events. Each dining room can seat up to 50 guests or can be linked together to accommodate 150 guests.

It’s a rarity in the hospitality industry, yet Morton’s stays true to its roots as primarily a family restaurant and closes on all major holidays.

Put Morton’s Steak Bible on your wish list, it’s co-authored by Fritsch and will hit the bookstores in spring. It includes recipes and legendary tales from the restaurant.

IF YOU GO

* WHAT: Morton’s The Steakhouse

* WHERE: 1641 W. Sunflower Ave. in South Coast Plaza Village

* WHEN: Lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday to Friday; dinner menu available from 2:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Dinner served from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Saturdays, and 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sundays

* INFO: (714) 444-4834 or www.mortons.com

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at [email protected]; at 1375 Sunflower Ave., Costa Mesa, CA 92626; or by fax at (714) 966-4679.

20051014iobme1kn(LA)Chef Paul Avila and general manager J.C. Clow at Morton’s The Steakhouse at South Coast Plaza Village.