Down-home cookin’

From the moment Tim DeCinces tasted the tender, wood-smoked ribs in

Mobile, Ala., he was hooked. He’d never tasted anything like it back

home in Newport. He was entranced not just by the pulled pork, the

tangy barbecue beans and the smoked grilled corn on the cob, but also

by the southern hospitality.

While DiCences played minor league baseball, he toured the country

and tasted the finest down-home cooking he could find.

“I couldn’t imagine staying in my hotel room,” DeCinces said. “I

liked to see local sights. I like culture and restaurants.”

An unexpected benefit to playing ball was that he could live life

like a traveling host on the Food Network.

Throughout the South, he found the best restaurants were hidden

secrets, tucked away in a grandmother and grandfather’s backyard. It

was at casual eateries that he enjoyed the fellowship, families

gathering together and the sense of community.

DeCinces, 31, married and the father of three young girls, opened

the Beach Pit BBQ in Costa Mesa on Sept. 12. It’s his Southern

California version of a Deep South barbecue joint.

The Beach Pit BBQ fills the void in Costa Mesa for a good barbecue

restaurant, and the need for more family restaurants.

“We have great Thai food, Mexican restaurants, burgers, and

sushi’s on every block and at every strip mall, but not barbecue,” he

said.

DeCinces wasn’t about to open a barbecue restaurant just for the

sake of serving great barbecue. He sought out a location that was off

the main corridor, just like he remembered in the South. He found an

ideal spot in a former dilapidated vacant house on Tustin Avenue,

just around the corner from East 17th Street. It had great potential,

giant mature liquid amber trees and room for a playground and front

and back outdoor seating.

DeCinces spruced up the property dramatically. The formerly

run-down house transformed into a cozy restaurant with corrugated

sheet metal from a 100-year-old barn on the exterior, and antique oak

flooring inside. His wife, Melissa, created a comfortable, homey

atmosphere by hunting for antiques at salvage yards and stores in

Orange. She bought antique registers and doors, and had custom

Adirondack chairs made in Laguna. Other improvements included

installing soft and fluffy artificial green grass for kids to play

on, a white picket fence, new landscaping, charming white outdoor

lights and patios filled with redwood picnic-style tables.

The coup de grace that makes the Beach Pit BBQ complete are the

behemoth barbecue smoker that could cook enough meat to feed an army

and a passionate chef, John Morris.

A strict cooking ritual achieves desired flavors. Cooking meats in

the smoker is a lengthy ordeal. Thirty racks turn slowly, carrying

meats that baste each other. Pork cooks for 16 hours, ribs cook for

seven hours and chicken cooks for three to four hours at a steady 225

degrees. DeCinces follows a thorough list of barbecue do’s and

don’ts. Bone-in meats are hand-pulled and fat is removed, never

chopped up in a mush with bones and all.

There are true-to-the-Southern-style swift ribs only.

“Nobody does baby back ribs in the South,” DeCinces said.

Smoke from hickory and pecan logs soften and flavor meats just the

way DeCinces likes it. No dry rubs. Morris even flew to Alabama to

taste the wonderful barbecue meats and sauces that DeCinces wanted to

recreate.

“His flavors are dead-on. He was born to do this,” DeCinces said.

“John is so talented and makes everything from scratch.”

Morris’ southern-inspired creations will make a barbecue

connoisseur’s day.

The debut menu features tender and meaty large ribs ($10.95 to

$14.95); pulled pork ($8.95 to $10.95); fresh chicken ($9.95 to

$11.95) and custom-made smoked sausage stuffed with cheddar cheese

($8.95 to $10.95). Or combine meats for a sample plate. Choice of two

meats ($11.95); or choice of three smoked meats ($16.95). And the

Beach Pit BBQ can cook up Southern delicacies such as smoked bologna

and fried dill pickles, and it plans to add smoked albacore and

turkeys for the holidays.

Sandwiches taste even better with barbecue meats. There’s pork

($7.25); chicken ($7.75); and smoked sausage ($7.75). An entree-size

salad comes with corn, jicama, black beans, lettuce and choice of

pulled pork or pulled chicken ($9.95). There are complimentary

barbecue sides dishes, with a choice of two from, cole slaw, barbecue

beans and potato salad; and there’s a basket of sweet potato fries

($3.95), French fries ($2.95) and just-right homemade blueberry corn

bread ($1).

Children feel at home ordering pork or chicken sandwiches ($4.95)

and chicken tenders ($4.95). Both come with French fries. Fresh

squeezed lemonade, fresh brewed sweet tea, and soft drinks come in

large 22 oz. and 32 oz. sizes ($1.50 to $3). Beer and wine is

expected soon.

One dessert makes ordering simple. Just like your grandma used to

make, homemade delicious banana bread pudding ($2.50).

The Beach Pit BBQ is a perfect place to pick up meals for home

entertaining, and it offers catering too.

It’s a slice of Southern life in Costa Mesa. A place you can

relax, meet with friends and family, and enjoy the flavors that

DeCinces imported all the way from Alabama.

IF YOU GO

* WHAT: The Beach Pit BBQ

* WHERE: 1676 Tustin Ave. in Costa Mesa

* WHEN: Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily

* INFO: (949) 645-RIBS or o7www.beachpitbbq.comf7