230 Forest launched a dining phenomenon

Glori Fickling

Achieving Zagat survey notoriety consistently for almost 10 years

since opening in the summer of 1995, the phenomenal success of 230

Forest in Downtown Laguna Beach is further exemplified in the quartet

of equally popular restaurants launched by dauntless co-owners over

the last five years.

Plaudits go to Marc Cohen, the indefatigable executive chef,

quintessential hostess Terry Rothbard, architect Mark Singer and

new-site negotiator Jules Swimmer. Their more recent establishments

commenced in 1999 with the launching of Opah, a 180-seat seafood venue in Aliso Viejo named after the tropical good-luck moonfish that

reaches up to 400 pounds. Opah was cloned two years later with a

sprawling 280 seat namesake in Rancho Santa Margarita and soon after

with a spacious 210-seater in Tustin.

The newest brainchild is Agave, which debuted this year on July 21

and broke from the pattern with a decidedly Mexican accent. Inspired

by Cohen’s constant sous chef, Jose Ramirez, Agave recalls the

notable tequila producing cactus plant and is located adjacent to the

Tustin Opah in busy Irvine Market Place. No wonder these ambitious

entrepreneurs have just gained the reputation of “hottest people in

Orange County� among 25 so named in OC Metro’s annual October 2004

edition.

It is amazing how the phenomenally productive Cohen makes an

appearance each day from 6:30 to midnight at every one of his

brainchild premises. Yet he always manages quality time with loving

wife Michelle and their three young children. Restaurants, however,

have been his passion since, as a 13 year old, he worked with a

hometown executive chef. Professional status came after four years

study at renowned Johnson Wales University in Providence, Rhode

Island. His concept of utilizing exclusively fresh, quality

ingredients commences with fresh caught denizens of the briny brought

in seven days a week. Settle at far end of the bar for one of

mixologist Dan’s potent martinis and grab a peek into the kitchen.

You will observe a magical Marc Cohen energetically plying his skills

alongside a competent cooking corps deftly arranging key ingredients

in a plethora of picturesque plates.

With a mere 68 seats including sidewalk tables and the always

packed outer bar, 230 immediately became the “in spot� for local

foodies. The steady clientele responsible for 230’s inimitable

success on Forest Avenue’s renowned restaurant row, now happily

boasts loyal parents who first enjoyed dining here as children who

came with their own dedicated parents. Pretty presentations are one

facet of the menu’s attraction of which only 50% of items have been

revised occasionally since Day One. Starter plates are $7 to $12,

green plates $6 to $16, pasta bowls $12 to $21, ocean and land plates

$18 to $29. A favorite fish fantasy is the festive assemblage of

plump diver scallops arranged in an oversize bowl, a crisp crab

wonton perched proudly atop a central mound of lemon thyme porcini

risotto and sweet corn butter. For a tantalizing starter, ahi tuna

tartare boasts twin wafer cones strewn with wasabi caviar flanking a

shot of chilled sake to sprinkle atop the ginger cones or to sip

between tasty bites.

Seafood admittedly dominates the bill of fare appearing in

thirteen diversified dishes, not less the bountiful Pacific northwest

cioppino, a simmering broth of rich shellfish heaped with Maine

lobster, Asian prawns, oysters, Manila clams, New Zealand green lip

mussels, calamari and finfish. You’ll not be disappointed either with

the 14 ounce New York steak, the nine-ounce filet mignon, maple

infused double cut pork chop, grilled lemon garlic chicken or the

brandy smoked baby back ribs which are served in half and full

portions. For a grand finale, dark chocolate croissant bread pudding

is complemented with bourbon creme anglaise and vanilla bean ice

cream, among four luscious indulgences at $8.50. The $10 chocolate

souffle should be ordered in advance.

NEWS BITES

Cheers to Laguna Beach Brewing Co. for enhancing two recent

community activities, the annual Chamber Business Expo at Tivoli Too

on Nov. 10, and the exciting Mic, Merlot and Music celebration days

later at the Women’s Club. Owner Kasha Shahabi and general manager

Jack Glass were personally on hand dishing up a delicious array of

hearty treats. An enormous turnout at both festivities was

overwhelmed by the signature clam chowder served up in little

sourdough rounds. In addition, came such assorted tastes as Cajun

roasted lamb chops, penne with portabella/roasted red

pepper/gorgonzola cream; linguine in olive oil/tomato/basil and

fettuccine with chicken and artichokes. Guests were further delighted

to savor master brewer Bart’s California State award-winning beer,

Kefeweizer 2004, and the ever-popular “Wiped Out� dark brew. Phone

(949) 494-BREW or (949) 499-BEER.

Savory Greek delicacies from the Agean Cafe were a major highlight

of Coast Gallery’s reception celebrating superlative new quarters.

Passers by on Coast Highway now get a clear view of the magnificent

paintings now displayed in the spacious quarters beneath the Cafe and

directly north of the former venue. The elegant reception was hosted

by Agean principal Jim Maroutsos who kept Greek tastes coming and

server Hector who topped the collectors’ crystal stems with premium

Cabernet from Silver Oak Vineyards. Phone: (949) 494-5001

Chalk up another hit for last week’s Chamber Mixer at Frank’s

Foreign Cars. A silky cabernet sauvignon from Vizcaya Argentina

complemented the hearty Mexican buffet from Adolfo’s adding to the

hospitality extended at this longtime family owned complex. To join

the Laguna Beach Chamber of Commerce, or garner information on the

next mixer, please call (949) 494-1018.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at [email protected].