Villa Romana Espana offers tantalizing tequilas

DINING REVIEW

The best of two popular ethnic cultures came to fruition recently

when Fernanda and Angelo Capraro welcomed a long forgotten compatriot

to the fore, adding a fascinating dimension to their popular Villa

Romana Trattoria Downtown.

Enter gracious Alex Malpica who was appointed general manager of

Villa Romana Espana. The new auxiliary reposes charmingly on the

restaurant’s rooftop, setting a relaxing respite for delicious

alfresco dining. In addition to a tempting Mexican bill of fare, the

hospitable Malpica has brought to our town what is noted to be the

most extensive collection of prestigious primo tequilas in all of

Orange County.

If ever you wanted to know something beyond simply imbibing

Mexico’s national spirit, this knowledgeable restaurateur is most

delighted to share with you. For example, he says it is only the town

of Tequila, 16 miles north of the city of Guadalajara in the state of

Jalisco, which produces authentic tequila. Further, the beverage is

extracted from the beautiful blue agave plant, a giant cactus-like

formation which envelopes the aguamiel, or honey water, that is the

source of tequila.

After the plant, which grows up to six feet high, is harvested, it

is baked, filtered and distilled resulting in the heady drink we now

enjoy in a frosty margarita or as a smoothly comforting straight shot

sans the salt and lime often accompanying lesser quality products.

Malpica’s tequila selection encompasses some thirty labels at

prices per bottle of $150 to $700, the latter for Herradura, which

enhances the famed $50 Cadillac margarita. Ever at the ready to

romance guests, his genuine enthusiasm for this euphoria-producing

drink is totally obvious to fascinated observers as he presides

behind the bar pouring from a parade of exotic bottles.

Scanning the bill of fare we note seven traditional plates and

nine full lunches. The former includes enchiladas with a choice of

beef, chicken or cheese; fried tacos with chicken or beef, plus a

soft version filled with grilled chicken, carnitas or carne asada.

Burritos rolled with rice and beans come veggie style or embellished

with carnitas, asada, cheese, chicken or beef. There are chicken and

beef tamales and a trio of taquitos served with guacamole. Flautas

come with guacamole and sour cream, and plump chile rellenos are pan

roasted rather than fried and meltingly lavished with jack cheese.

These are priced at $6.95 each and any additional item is a mere $2

more.

Almuerzos, range from $8.95 to $15.95, each includes rice, beans,

salsa, tortillas, homemade chips and exceptional, chunky guacamole.

Noteworthy are camarones al mojo de ajo, large scampi style shrimp,

and crisply cooked carnitas, tender, juicy morsels of lean marinated

pork. The menu, Malpica explains, was inspired by recipes he has

gleaned through his tenure managing various Mexican venues. Fajitas

are offered with chicken or steak for $11.95, add $4 for shrimp.

Carne asada, prepared with top sirloin steak, comes with traditional

trimmings. Crispy chimichanga pastries wrapped with chicken or

shredded beef are garnished with sour cream and guacamole.

Beyond all this south-of-the-border bounty, lovely Fernanda’s

wonderful display of desserts are also available upstairs as is her

full range of salads, kitchen baked breads, focaccia, pizzas and all

of the delicious Italian entrees she has created since opening day in

1993. Now, with the able assistance of a caring cook, the dedication

of longtime waitperson Adolfo and crew, plus the considerable

expertise of the venerable Malpica, the Capraro’s are spending more

time enjoying the camaraderie of their many guests. Ask Fernanda why

she is looking so radiant these days and, with a smiling wink, her

snappy reply is “olive oil and tequila.” No argument there!

NEWS BITES

Happy to hear that Anastasia, the Ocean Avenue venue famed for

exquisite cuisine and fabulous fashions, will be open for dinner

starting July 6.

Innovative chef Jerry Baker has conceived a menu he calls

Spago-esque, utilizing fresh California ingredients with a fusion

twist encompassing a variety of worldwide cuisines. His delicious box

suppers continue to enhance the variety of foreign films featured at

[seven-degrees] monthly cinema series every second Thursday of the

month.

For the June 10 event, the sexy French film, “Ginger and

Cinnamon,” was complemented with a delectable pesto toss of tender,

grilled chicken breast and penne pasta sprinkled with pine nuts,

herbs and a side of chewy olive bread. Phone (949) 497-1212.

Our magnificent Montage Resort and Spa has just announced the

introduction of “Cheese Artistry at the Loft,” the resort’s lovely

fourth-floor dining venue. As a tribute to the ancient craft of

cheese making, the restaurant is dedicating several programs to the

appreciation of rare artisan cheeses from around the globe, “from

fresh and tangy, to stinky and nutty, to sharp and fruity,” says the

press release. It is noted that the highly knowledgeable cheese

sommelier Starr Cornwall personally selects international and

domestic artisan cheeses for the collection. (949) 715-6420.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at [email protected].