Fine Italian dining can be casual

Greer Wylder

Pomodoro Cucina Italiana opened in September at the Newport Coast

Shopping Center. It’s an offspring of Pasta Pomodoro, a prolific

restaurant chain from San Francisco with more than 30 locations

throughout California and Arizona.

The first-born Pomodoro Cucina Italiana borrows Pasta Pomodoro’s

original theme, with its own culinary translation. They both offer

affordable, high-quality Italian cuisine served in a casual

atmosphere, yet Pomodoro Cucina Italiana has an enhanced menu,

printed daily with separate lunch and dinners, as well as

health-conscious selections.

The leggoro (light items) include healthy chicken, a grilled

chicken breast with corkscrew pasta, zucchini, fresh tomato and basil

($8.75). It’s low in oil and butter. The conchigle pollo is made with

chicken reduction to lessen the fat content, and has shell pasta,

grilled chicken, sun-dried tomatoes, roasted garlic and broccoli

($7.95). Even pasta dishes can be made with whole-wheat, low-gluten

or high-protein pastas.

The new Pomodoro Cucina Italiana is the latest venture of chef and

founder Adriano Paganini. Paganini started his cooking pursuit in

Italy. His parents were tailors, yet Paganini had no interest in

their craft; he would rather eat than sew. His mother’s simple

cooking with fresh ingredients inspired his career choice.

Eventually, he apprenticed under France’s master chef, Paul Bocuse,

and then at age 24, he became a five-star executive chef at London’s

Hyde Park Hotel.

In London, he cooked for famous guests, including the queen of

England, former President Reagan and Luciano Pavarotti. When he moved

to the United States in 1991, he became executive chef at San

Francisco’s Donatello restaurant, and just two years later, he opened

his own restaurant, Cafe Adriano, hailed by Gourmet magazine as

“Perfetto.” His next move was opening Pasta Pomodoro; the “urban

trattoria” is one of the fastest growing pasta chains.

Affordable table-service restaurants are in demand, so Pomodoro

Cucina Italiana fills that void at the Newport Coast Shopping Center.

So far, the new center’s other dining options -- Sharky’s Woodfired

Mexican Grill and First Class Pizza -- are high quality quick-casual

restaurants with no servers.

At Pomodoro Cucina Italiana, the ambience is casual -- no

tablecloths or wine glasses. It’s family-friendly, with booth or

table options, and even patio seating. The decor features

checkerboard black and ivory flooring, dark wood Venetian blinds,

Italian ceramics and an open kitchen. A small bar offers wine and

beer only. The international wine list includes 14 selections by the

glass, and premium beers are available. A specialty of the house is

to-go orders, so there’s a convenient order station.

The menu features innovative and traditional Italian dishes. The

selections are flexible, and most salads can be ordered in two sizes:

small (piccolo) or large (grande). A few entrees can be ordered in

appetizer portions, or with a choice of grilled chicken (add $1.75).

The antipasti e zuppa (appetizers and soups) selection features

bruschetta on grilled pugliese bread, from Italy’s Apulia region, a

soft white bread with a crunchy crust ($3.50 to $4.95).

There’s also Prince Edward Island mussels steamed with garlic,

herbs, butter and white wine ($5.95); and grilled asparagus with

sharp pecorino Romano cheese and fresh arugula ($4.95) Seven insalata

(salads) selections range from a fresh spinach salad with crispy

pancetta, grilled red onions, Roma tomatoes, ricotta salata and

peppered walnuts ($.25 to $7.50); and there are entree salads, a

grilled ahi tuna salad ($9.75) and chopped salad with grilled chicken

($7.75).

House specialties are most creative. Favorites include the ravioli

di zucca, a roasted butternut ravioli with browned butter, sage,

sun-dried tomatoes and parmesan ($8.50); and frutti di mare,

spaghetti with black mussels, shrimp, calamari, Manila clams, roasted

garlic, white wine and tomato ($10). Traditional Italian pastas

include spaghetti polpette, homemade meatballs in a spicy tomato

sauce ($7.75); Bolognese, rigatoni with beef, veal and pork ragout,

roasted mushrooms and pecorino Romano cheese ($7.75); and lasagna

Napoleatana, baby meatballs, provolone, fresh ricotta, spicy tomato

sauce and herbs ($8.50).

Four secondi (protein) dishes include bistecca e rucola, a grilled

ribeye topped with fresh arugula and shaved Pecorino cheese with

fagiloli all uccelletto, Tuscan white beans, sage and tomato

($12.75); and salmon ai ferri, a grilled salmon, zucchini and

eggplant in a balsamic vinegar reduction ($9.75). Vegetables are a la

carte: Brussels sprouts with browned butter, onions and garlic

($3.95); sauteed spinach ($3.95) and broccoli sauteed with garlic,

chili flakes and olive oil ($3.95).

Four dolci (desserts) to choose from: tiramisu, panna cotta,

ricotta and mascarapone cheesecake and for chocolate lovers, the

souffle al cioccolato. It’s a warm chocolate souffle cake with

melting chocolate inside, chocolate sauce and whipped cream ($4.50 to

$4.95).

FAT TUESDAY CELEBRATION

Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar will celebrate Mardi Gras in

a big way on Tuesday with a special “Fat Reds on Fat Tuesday” dinner.

Festivities begin at 6:30 p.m. Fleming’s will throw a New

Orleans-style party featuring live Cajun music and a Creole-inspired

menu paired with five big red wines, masks and beads. Dinner is just

$85 per person, excluding tax and gratuity. It’s an evening of fun

that red wine lovers and Mardi Gras enthusiasts will not want to

miss. Fleming’s is at 455 Newport Center Drive, at Fashion Island in

Newport Beach. Call (949) 720-9633.

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

[email protected]; at 330 W. Bay St., Costa Mesa, CA 92627; or by

fax at (949) 646-4170.’