Lunch, a weekend treat at Royal Hawaiian

Glori Fickling

The oldest family-owned restaurant in Laguna Beach, the Royal

Hawaiian, is a treasured local landmark. Celebrating 56 years of

continuing success at Christmas time this month, this little bit of

Polynesian Paradise is under the astute guidance of siblings, J.R.

and Marilyn Cabang, heirs to the legacy their late father, Francis

Cabang launched with his lovely bride Dionesia, circa 1947.

Commencing with only nine tables seating 50 guests, it was soon

after opening that this fascinating replica of a thatched roof

tropical hut was expanded. It has since been a sensuous network of

exotic island-inspired rooms serving up to 160 patrons a day.

The wondrous tropical haven recently broke precedent as a dinner

house by throwing open its massive doors to serve lunch for the very

first time. Though the weekday crowd apparently took too long to

catch on causing an early termination of this midday repast, Saturday

and Sundays seem to be gradually attracting an appreciative

entourage.

The daytime scene is a bit different than evenings, perhaps a bit

more refreshing. Sunshine glowing brilliantly through the windows

reflects swaying palm trees and stately tiki god pillars outside

where the bustling traffic of Coast Highway attests to our towns

popularity.

Though this exotic establishment was considered trendy in the 40s

and 50s, it’s a staple of our community decades after the demise of

such once burgeoning Los Angeles island style dining destinations as

Trader Vic’s and Don the Beachcomber. High praise is how the Cabang’s

now count no less than three generations of Lagunan’s who look to

this family favorite for celebrating birthdays, anniversaries,

graduations and festivities of every ilk.

Start with the exotic cocktail lounge. It is now under guidance of

Luis Blanco who recently introduced a new libation to the list of

favorite tropi-cocktails that keep locals coming. He calls it the Big

Kahuna and it is a whopping 32 ounces of Lapu Lapu served up with

four straws for as many imbibers. For $10.75 this potent potable is

the way to go when you want to jump start a major evening of

camaraderie. And if you know where $5 will still purchase such

Polynesian fantasies as the Mai Tais, Navy Grogs and Blue Hawaiians

made famous in this domain you must alert me ASAP.

While the lunch menu is scaled down from dinner options, there is

an adequate selection of salads, burgers, sandwiches and entrees to

appease your taste buds. Look to dynamic Teddy Nelson who stands at

the helm on weekend days to assist. He will explain that salads are

hefty enough to qualify as lunch entrees, a tasty quartet at $8.95

offering sufficient variations. The spinach bowl is tossed with

bacon, walnuts, egg, dressed with raspberry vinaigrette and fresh

strawberries. The Chinese chicken salad with Mandarin oranges is

crunchy with crisp noodles, carrots, scallions, sesame seed dressing.

Cobb is lavished with bleu cheese, bacon, egg, avocado and pineapple.

Deduct $2 for a 1/2 order.

Entrees commence with the evening house salad served in a small

bowl but heaped with mixed greens and a creamy dressing. Main courses

are a tasty quartet of offerings including the famed spareribs a la

moana, $13.25; a 1/2 order is $8.95. Equally famous are fried jumbo

shrimp at $11.95, $7.95 for a 1/2 order. Teriyaki beef brochettes are

$9.95, the same price for grilled halibut, salmon filet and teriyaki

shrimp brochettes, the latter skewered with pineapple and presented

with rice pilaf.

Longtime locals should recall the early days when dinners included

soup, salad, relish tray and the romantic pele goddess of fire ice

cream finale. Soup, salad and relish tray are still included with

dinner but it will now cost all of $1.50 to enjoy that creamy scoop

of vanilla ice cream flamed with a brandy soaked cube of sugar.

Aloha!

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at [email protected].