Surfing life the Laguna way

LAGUNA LIFE

I have said it a thousand times and I will probably say it another

thousand times; surfing in Laguna has and always will be my life. It

is the essence of who I am. Aside from my family, it is what has

shaped my life the most in becoming the person that I am today. When

I was 6 years old my brother John taught me how to surf. I remember

that day as though it was yesterday and part of me still wishes it

was.

When I was 6 years old everyone was a surf star but no one more

than my brother in my eyes. He would tell me stories about surfing

Pipeline and how he stayed at Brian Buckley’s house. I would hang on

his every word in awe. Then Brian stayed at our house, I couldn’t

wait to tell all my friends he was at our house the next day at

school. So I started calling my friends. Suddenly there was nothing

more in life I wanted but to be like them.

And then there were the local hero’s: Hende’, Boots, Mateo, Beg’s,

this is the crew I grew up under down at Pearl Street Beach. The ones

who sprayed me. Heckled me. Abused me. Junior bird mans. Feastings.

Snuggies. These are the guys who taught me about life in and out of

the water.

There were so many guys in this town that influenced my surfing.

Charlie S. was the best switch-foot surfer I have ever seen and that

includes Simon Law. Charlie was so good you couldn’t tell if he was

Goofy or Regular Foot. Ray Williams, a true classic. He was the guy

with the big Afro. Always had a red board and only surfed when it was

big and good. Mike O’Hara -- the word shredder comes to mind when I

think of him. Mike and my brother would battle it out between each

other for top dog bragging rights in front of my parent’s house.

I grew up surfing Agate while everyone else among my peers grew up

surfing in town. Brook and Thalia streets etc. Which basically was

and still is the Mecca of Laguna surfing. I hated surfing town. Still

do. Everyone used to tease me about only surfing Agate and they still

do, not much as changed. I will always rather surf a good day in

front of my parents house then any where in the world, (call me

crazy) because of the people that I have mentioned and the friends

that I have here. It’s home.

Rivalries: Brandy, Hans, Frog, Steven, these guys were my friends

and my enemies in the water. We’re all about the same age and went

through high school together. Classic group of guys. The class of the

‘90s.

Now there’s a new class. The class of 2000 and beyond; with Mike

Todd, Bron, Morrissey and Jon Rose. These guys will be the ones

caring the torch soon for Laguna. But trust me when I say they still

have some dues to pay.

Surfing in Laguna isn’t about getting epic waves. It’s a way of

life. A culture. Something along the lines of a lifetime friendship

between people and the ocean. Surfing has provided a way of life for

us all. Traveling, meeting new people, seeing different things

through out the world. It has been a dream. To think I would have the

opportunities that I have in my life through surfing is unbelievable.

I was a lucky 6-year-old.

Surfing has provided me with so many good moments. I can’t help

but to laugh. Things are good here in Laguna. There are a lot of

people who care about one another. A trait that has been taught in

the water and passed down from generation to generation. The passing

of the torch. A bond that is so strong; it is a brotherhood.

When I think of surfing in Laguna; I think of family and friends.

Peace.

* JAMES PRIBRAM is a Laguna Beach resident, professional surfer

and co-founder of “They Will Surf Again,” a nonprofit foundation

assisting people with spinal cord injuries. He can be reached at

[email protected]. His Web site is

alohaschoolofsurfing.com.