Anastasia is an art-filled boutique-bistro

DINING OUT

Unique to Laguna Beach for the enterprising concept of teaming

fabulous fashions with delicious dining and innovative art, Anastasia

has been attracting fashion mavens and dedicated foodies since its

inception on Ocean Avenue in 1996. Prior to that, in 1981,

resourceful husband-wife team Amir and Zore Garavi had been promoting

their highly successful boutique featuring primarily European and

American designers at their original Anastasia, a popular retail

venue on Coast Highway.

The current sophisticated fashion, dining, art establishment,

personally created by the multi-talented Amir, was two years under

construction, replacing a former clinic before opening its handsome

glass doors to the Garavi’s enthusiastically awaiting patrons. A

recent Zagat survey describes Anastasia as a “Cal-French Bistro.”

Airlines magazine, Departures, notes that it is “where Laguna Beach

intelligencia meet for breakfast.” Indeed, the internationally-themed

menu of breakfast and lunch delicacies, also conceived by Amir,

captivates a busy, youthful entourage daily from an early 7:30 a.m.

until 3 p.m. every afternoon.

The popular sun-splashed patio is flanked by mahogany-framed glass

arches leading into the dining area. Here all dishes are expedited

via a sizable bar adorned with fresh fruits, wines and liqueurs. The

adjoining salon with its inviting fashion displays is viewable to

diners seated at contoured fiberglass chairs, pale chartreuse echoing

one darker hued chartreuse wall. The architecturally positioned,

double lineup of tables with their gleaming etched chrome surfaces

sets a rather updated art nouveau pace in contrast to the used-brick

wall maintained from the original building.

Perusing the adventuresome menu is something of a challenge, so

diverse are the offerings. Delectable aromas wafting from the kitchen

further set taste buds in motion. To break one’s fast come two-dozen

varied offerings, from an octave of omelet’s and such gourmet egg

preparations as the Fisherman’s Feast, poached with smoked salmon and

thyme, served with tomatoes and seasonal fruits. Continuing are

Belgian waffles, bagels and lox, Swedish pancakes, a vegetarian

frittata, apricot oatmeal and crunchy granola prepared from scratch

as is everything in the immaculate kitchen.

Going on to lunch, innovative salads, sandwiches, pastas, pizzas

and soups are an apt reflection of the Garavi’s creative approach in

every facet of their thriving venture. Commencing with fragrant

slices of airy LaBrea bakery bread and wrapped butter pats, (best

with a glass of imported chardonnay or a mellow merlot), the choice

is awesome. An indication of the affordable price structure is golden

lentil soup seasoned with highly expensive saffron at a mere $4.95.

Among nine salads and as many pastas in a $7 to $10 range, la

Greque combines tomatoes, cucumbers, onions and Kalamata olives with

balsamic vinaigrette atop crisp romaine lettuce with a lavish

sprinkling of feta cheese. An addictive ginger dressing gives a new

dimension to Chinese chicken salad combining baby greens with string

beans, Mandarin orange slices, delicate crispy noodles and crunchy

sesame seeds. Flavorsome pesto enhances two pasta favorites which

come with a choice of properly al dente shrimp or tender grilled

chicken breast.

Pesto turns up again in the international sandwich lineup, an

Italian filling of buffalo mozzarella, tomato and basil leaves on

ciabetta bread. Thai skewers come in a trio at $9.95, they are the

same delectable bites enjoyed by dedicated aficionados of the many

art receptions held here. These flavorsome threadings of chicken,

rice, wonton croutons accompanied with peanut sauce are graciously

offered at these functions with other complimentary appetizers and

wines.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at 494-4710 or by e-mail at [email protected].