Tuna Town rocks with teppan

Dining Out

If exhibition cooking is your thing, there’s no better place to go

than to the teppan tables at Tuna Town on Main Street in Huntington

Beach where head chef Shane Hollinger will introduce you to

teppan-yaki, the Japanese method of preparing seafood and meats on a

U-shaped grill, while diners share seating and watch their entrees

being prepared.

Tuna Town, a new restaurant in the second block of Main Street, is

owned by David Silvera, the drummer from Korn, and his wife Shannon.

It was designed by Architect Bob Thornton.

It has been the focus of much curiosity since the location was

gutted and Tuna Town was born. Its minimalist, futuristic styling

begins when you step inside the deep storefront filled with shining

silver metal chairs, black marble-topped tables and accents of maroon

tapestry in the seven large booths along one wall and four banquettes

along another. A long curving sushi bar is to the right and at the

back three teppan tables. On the walls are gold and platinum Korn CDs

and other musical memorabilia.

Tuna Town is riding the wave of teppan preparation, which is very

popular now. We selected a Philadelphia Roll ($3.50 each) from the

sushi bar while waiting at the teppan for Hollinger to begin his

preparation. The roll served with a dab of potent wasabi and pile of

ginger is cone-shaped, wrapped in firm black seaweed and filled with

a texture-mix of creamy soft cheese and avocado with crisp cucumber

and topped with raw pink salmon. It was fresh and very good -- a good

choice for a beginner at the sushi eating game.

Miso soup and a very good salad with red leaf frizee, radicchio,

cherry tomatoes and greens with an excellent zesty thick tomato-based

dressing were served. After waiting nearly 40 minutes, the teppan

chef arrived wheeling in a cart with our orders of fried rice ($4

each), chicken breast ($15.95) and shrimp ($21.95). Teppan is more

for entertainment than for a quick lunch or dinner.

Scrolling a squirt of oil across the hot teppan plate, the chef

ignited a wall of fire and the show began. Tossing an egg in the air,

he sliced it open with his spatula, scrambled it on the grill and

added rice and tiny bits of vegetables to create flavorful fried rice

served in small cups.

With slices of onion the chef built a tower, added oil and

exploded a fiery volcano -- a trick he learned as teppan chef at

Newport’s Benihana. With whirling knife and spatula he chopped

chicken into cubes, shelled shrimp, sliced mushrooms and zucchini,

squeezed a lemon, added a sprinkle of garlic and a handful of bean

sprouts to fill our heavy ceramic plates.

Teppan preparation is good healthful eating according to Manager

Molly Gumienny. Especially interesting, she said, is the preparation

of hot Tuna Juju Yaki ($12), an appetizer roll dipped in tempura

batter and served sizzling to the diner.

Tuna Town is a trendy restaurant new to Downtown Huntington Beach

and should be a flaming success.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have

comments or suggestions, call (562) 493-5062 or e-mail

[email protected].