Dining Out

Mary Furr, For the Independent

At Matsu, the Japanese restaurant in the corner of a mini mall at

Beach Boulevard and Talbert Avenue, they are clever. Patrons are tempted

with three varieties of classic Japanese cuisine preparation -- menu

selections in two lovely dining areas, the sushi bar and the teppan-yaki

grill.

Today, we pass the sushi bar and head through an arch guarded by a

pair of lions. We enter the teppan room where 14 chairs surround each of

the two U-shaped teppan tables with their large hot plates. It is a

dramatic room with one wall of forest green and wood paneling, one with a

brilliant red poppy picture of Georgia O’Keefe and a large Buddha in a

recessed alcove. As we are seated, a server in a Japanese kimono takes

our order -- Filet Mignon (lunch $9.95) and chicken and shrimp, (lunch

$7.95) and then brings a cup of vegetable soup filled with cabbage,

carrot and onion and sunomona, a tart vinegary salad of sliced cucumbers

-- more appetizer than salad, topped with three miniature shrimp.

Now the stage is set for the entrance of Vietnamese chef Akira from

Garden Grove, who has been doing teppan for 10 years -- the last year and

a half at Matsu. He has brought a cart of steamed rice, vegetables, the

steak, chicken and shrimp.

Whipping out a bottle of cooking oil, he prepares the hot plate,

breaks two eggs and slices an onion to mix with bits of red and green

bell pepper. With a spatula and butcher knife, he nudges and chops the

vegetables. A mound of steamed rice chef Akira has piled on the hot plate

is combined with the chopped eggs and vegetables, magically coming to

your plate as a pile of rather bland fried rice, which would have

benefited from more flavor.

Next come the entrees of big deboned chicken, trimmed tender steak and

large gray shrimp, which turn a rosy pink as they cook. Akira hones his

knife and quickly turns and chops the food into tempting entrees, adding

broiled carrots, zucchini and onion to the teppan. Chicken cubes are

flipped to a diner’s plate and piled with crunchy bean sprouts. A narrow

divided plate holds three mild aromatic sauces. One is an elusive ginger

dip good with the shrimp, another thicker teriyaki gives more needed

flavor to the chicken cubes, and the mustard one adds a deep smoky flavor

to the tender filet mignon.

If you desire a sweet other than the green tea or red bean ice cream,

there is a wonderful sliced banana crepe ($3.50) with sweet cream filling

in a tissue-thin wrap arranged with Japanese artistry with a scoop of

green tea ice cream and a sliced red strawberry.

Service at Matsu, managed by Andy K. Takenaka, is excellent. It is

unobtrusive and there when you need it.

If you are looking for an adventurous break in the middle of the day

teppan at Matsu is a lunch that combines entertainment with good healthy

food in one neat and enticing package -- Japanese style.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments

or suggestions, call (562) 493-5062 or e-mail o7 [email protected]

FYI

WHAT: Matsu Japanese Restaurant

WHERE: 10835 Beach Blvd.

HOURS: Lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday, Dinner 5:30

to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, until 10:30 p.m. on Friday and

Saturday and 5 to 9:30 p.m. on Sunday.

Reservations suggested for teppan room. Credit cards.

PHONE: (714) 848-4404.