Dining Review -- Stephen Santacroce

Growing up, many of us were told by our parents and our teachers that

breakfast is the most important meal of the day. The emphasis of a good,

hot breakfast could not be overly stressed, and many of us began our day

with eggs, bacon or sausage, toast, and fruit or fruit juice -- fuel for

the upcoming day ahead. As we grew older, eating habits slowly begin to

change; a box of Fruit Loops along with Saturday morning cartoons

replaced eggs and bacon, sugar now being the primary energy source.

A good breakfast has now become a special event, a comforting link to

a more leisurely past, when a good cup of coffee could be had for 50

cents, and ordering didn’t involve any knowledge of foreign languages.

I still like to have a relaxing, old-fashioned breakfast every now and

then; spending an hour in the morning with a plate of eggs and my paper

feels like a well-earned luxury after a busy workweek. In particular,

there are a few places I enjoy that not only feature rib-sticking good

food, but offer a unique atmosphere and taste of local culture as well.

For more than 55 years, Cappy’s in Newport Beach (5930 W. Coast

Highway, Newport Beach, [949] 646-4202) has been serving local patrons

hearty breakfasts at reasonable prices. The restaurant, which is only

open for breakfast and lunch (except for Wednesdays, when dinner is

served until 10 p.m.), is perched on Coast Highway among surf shops near

the Huntington Beach border.

Inside, a small bar, staffed from opening at 6 a.m., serves Bloody

Marys to ease the hair of the dog. Nautical murals cover most of the

walls, along with signed pictures of local sports stars and celebrities

who have patronized the establishment. Cappy’s is a popular place, and

there is often a line on the weekends, but the young, attractive staff is

friendly and patient, and the service is quick and efficient.

Cappy’s breakfast menu is extensive; there are more than 20 omelets,

featuring fillings such as sausage, pepper and cheese ($6.95) or a more

vegetarian-friendly avocado and mushroom ($7.95). The specialty at

Cappy’s, however, is its country-fried steak and eggs ($9.95). Often this

dish at other restaurants is composed of a barely chewable cut of beef

heavily battered and deep fried to a greasy mess. At Cappy’s, you’ll

enjoy thin slices of prime rib, lightly washed in an egg batter and

quickly sauteed. The tender meat is served atop rich gravy, along with

two eggs cooked the way you like them and toast. A bottomless cup of

coffee completes this hearty day-starter.

Members of the Newport Beach boating community have long enjoyed their

breakfast at the Galley Cafe (829 Harbor Island Drive, Newport Beach,

[949] 673-4110), located on the corner of a marina in exclusive Harbor

Island. Ed Flach, who previously worked at The Arches, opened the Galley

46 years ago with his wife, Myrtle. In fact, Myrtle Park across from the

restaurant is named for Ed’s wife. Today, Ed’s grandson, Brian, runs the

restaurant, and many of the workers are also family members.

The Galley is a classic ‘50s diner, complete with red leather booths,

Formica tables and a long counter with swivel stools. Milkshakes are

still made by hand with fresh ice cream, and sodas are still made from

syrups at the soda fountain.

The Galley is a great spot to start the day; I like to daydream over a

cup of coffee about which boat I’d like to own when I win the lottery (or

retire from my restaurant critic earnings). Breakfast fare includes all

the usual beginnings, such as a tall or short stack of fluffy pancakes

($3.95 and $3.75, respectively).

The specialty of the house is the chili cheese omelet ($7.65), a tasty

mess of three eggs, rich brown chili and ample cheddar cheese. If boating

works up an appetite, then this dish is sure to cure it. And if the chili

and eggs aren’t enough, you also get crispy hash browns and a side of

toast. As Chief Brody said in “Jaws”: “I think we need a bigger boat.”

If the corner of a marina is still too far from the water for you,

then maybe the Stuft Surfer (101 E. 15th St., Newport Beach, [949]

673-3696) is the place for you. This outdoor-only eatery is on the Balboa

Peninsula boardwalk, where it meets 15th Street. Diners order inside at

the counter of this 30-year-old establishment, and then find a vacant

table across the walk on the sand. Truly al fresco, the only way to dine

closer to the water would be with scuba gear.

Everyone who’s ever tried surfing knows that it’s a sport that works

up one’s appetite, and the breakfast burrito ($5.25) at the Stuft Surfer

is the perfect solution. A large flour tortilla (if I saw an unwrapped

tortilla this size with metal spokes, I’d call it an umbrella) is filled

with scrambled eggs, salsa, cheese and home-fried potatoes. If that isn’t

enough carbo-loading to paddle through the big stuff, a side of home

fries accompanies this monster burrito. The homemade waffles are also

good, especially when topped with berries and whipped cream.

I bring my friends with kids here often. It’s the perfect family spot:

The kids get to play in the sand, Dad can watch bikini-clad skaters

whizzing by, and Mom can feast her eyes on buff surfers heading in from a

morning’s workout. Oh yes, and all while enjoying the fresh ocean air.

All three places I’ve talked about in this column have been around for

30 years or longer, a true testament to their popularity, service and

good food. Most of us can’t eat this type of breakfast every day, nor for

that matter should most of us. But when the urge strikes for the mother

of all comfort foods, Cappy’s, the Galley Cafe and the Stuft Surfer all

deliver the goods.

So treat yourself one of these days, throw on your favorite old

T-shirt, your flip-flops, grab the morning paper and head off for some

hot coffee and a relaxing hearty breakfast.

* STEPHEN SANTACROCE’S restaurant reviews appear every other Thursday.

Send him your comments at [email protected].