Dining Review -- Jennifer K Mahal

The best reason to go to the Napa Valley Pizza and Pasta Co. is

contained in the first part of its name. If you’re tired of flavorless,

cardboard, over-greased chain pizza, Napa Valley has the remedy.

Located on 17th Street with a design that wraps the restaurant around

a Diedrich’s Coffee shop, Napa Valley Pizza and Pasta Co. is owned by

Julie and Todd Marsh, who took over the place in July 2000. They kept the

menu, adding desserts made from the recipes of Todd’s mother-in-law.

They also kept the name, changing the wine list to reflect their

commitment to the fruit of the vine. The list, said Todd, features 17

wines from countries around the world, including Argentina, Chile, Italy

and France.

I’m not a wine connoisseur, but I had a fine glass of Gewurztraminer

there. And that’s not a wine I find featured on many menus.

The restaurant itself is found in two parts on two sides of the

building at 474 E. 17th St. The part facing the street is a nice sit-down

area with wooden tables and warm tones. It never seems crowded,

especially not compared with the patio bar and takeout area on the other

side. The kitchen joins the two dining areas.

When I think of vegetarian pizza, I think of tomato sauce and cheese

covered with green bell peppers and not much else. The recipe at Napa

Valley is much more creative. Their mixed grilled vegetarian pizza

($10.95, 10-inch; $13.95, 16-inch) is the best I’ve ever tasted. It got

rave reviews from the office for its flavor. Zucchini, onions, crushed

tomatoes and breaded eggplant join the standard green bell peppers. The

eggplant adds a lot of zest, and the crust was just right -- thick

without being either too chewy or too crispy.

The traditional works pizza ($11.95, 8-inch; $15.95, 16-inch) was also

well-received with its combination of pepperoni, sausage, mushrooms, bell

peppers, onions and marinated tomatoes. The sweetness of the onion was a

nice contrast to the spice of the sausage. Both pizzas came with freshly

grated Parmesan and pepper flakes, a nice touch.

For starters, their stuffed mushrooms ($5.95) are pretty good. Stuffed

with fake crab, fresh ground bread crumbs and seasonings, they could use

a bit more of the latter. The calamari ($6.95), breaded and lightly

fried, is great. Plentiful and not too greasy, they really satisfied.

Dinner entrees come with a choice of mixed green salad or minestrone

or lentil soup. Both are nice, standard fare.

The first time I had the eggplant parmisano ($9.95), I liked it. The

sauce was tangy, the eggplant was a little chewy, and it was just

covered in mozzarella. Yum. Unfortunately, the second time, when my

friend ordered it, the marinara sauce was too salty.

This problem also took the goodness out of my sun-dried tomato ravioli

($9.95). The ravioli, stuffed with smoked Gouda, tasted fresh and

delicate once the sauce had been scraped off. I’m hoping the saltiness

was a one time fluke, and I plan to go back to try it again.

The tiramisu ($3.95) is OK. It could use a little more flavor. Both

the espresso and the light rum tastes that I associate with the desert

were missing.

Pizza is definitely the reason to venture to Napa Valley Pizza and

Pasta Co. The next time I need to order it out, I know just where I’m

getting it from.

* JENNIFER MAHAL is features editor of the Daily Pilot. Stephen

Santacroce is on vacation. His dining reviews appear every other

Thursday.

FYI

* WHAT: Napa Valley Pizza and Pasta Co.

* WHERE: 474 E. 17th St., Costa Mesa

* HOURS: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to

10 p.m. Friday and 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday and Sunday

* COST: Inexpensive to medium

* MISCELLANEOUS: Dine in, take out, catering available

* CALL: (949) 574-7522