Dining Out

Mary Furr

In a long strip mall that stretches along Beach Boulevard from Atlanta

Avenue nearly to Pacific Coast Highway, among a polyglot of variety

stores and cafes, is 888 Chinese Cuisine. It’s an attractive spot where

dinner is served nightly by owners Stephanie Lee and Jeff Shen and his

wife Jin.

The triple digit moniker is a lucky number combination in China where

Jeff learned to cook in the restaurant of a large factory in Shanghai,

and it was luck that he met Stephanie, a native of Taiwan, who had come

to the United States, gained cooking experience and wanted a restaurant

of her own. Together they opened 888 10 years ago.

And it is our good luck that leads us here for a “family dinner”; one

of three priced from $8.25 to $10.95. We chose the last for its greater

variety. Choosing a hot bowl of wonton soup is an excellent beginning.

Jeff goes early to a local Chinese market for freshest vegetables and

here they are in a clear, light broth -- slices of mushrooms, zucchini,

carrot, water chestnuts with chicken and shrimp and stuffed wontons,

rather like ravioli. Like most Cantonese preparations, it is a simple,

well balanced soup prepared with an emphasis on freshness -- 888 Cuisine

uses 100% vegetable oil and no MSG.

Next are appetizers and the choices are traditional -- a big-boned,

meaty red sparerib, battered shrimp, foil-wrapped chicken pieces in a

zesty soy sauce, a complimentary dish of two very good egg rolls stuffed

with fresh cabbage and carrot. The cheese that fills the wonton is tasty

but suffers from a wrap that is heavy and too thick. We mentioned this to

Stephanie who says she really appreciates diner’s comments and considers

them guide posts to better food.

A large platter of garlic-scented barbecue pork pieces mixed with

vegetables has a thick, dark sauce combined with plenty of fresh

vegetables, though the pork might be a little salty to some tastes.

The meal is served with absolutely the best fried rice grains,

scrambled egg pieces -- even bean sprouts for a crunchy texture.

Another choice from among the 10 entrees is honey-walnut chicken a

favorite with Stephanie who says it’s almost like a dessert. The platter

is overloaded with soft but still crusty battered, deep fried chicken and

big halves of walnuts blanketed in a creamy sauce. You could overdose on

this dish, but it’s so good!

All three owners are also experienced cooks who find that well

prepared, more traditional dishes will always be popular with diners who

are lucky to find 888 Chinese Cuisine.

FYI

What: 888 Chinese Cuisine

WHERE: 21144 Beach Blvd.

HOURS: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. lunch, 4 to 9:30 p.m. dinner, Monday through

Friday; 4 to 9:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday

PHONE: (714) 536-8911

MISC.: Take out and free delivery available

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments

or suggestions, call (562) 493-5062 or e-mail o7 [email protected]