BYRON DE ARAKAL -- Between the Lines
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Kevin Finegold’s a businessman. And like all good capitalists
responsible for keeping the sales up and the bottom line black, he’s had
to make some pretty big decisions lately.
Some of you will recognize Finegold as the owner of Newport Beach’s
venerable Josh Slocums Restaurant, the once-preferred haunt of sea-tested
mariners and a place that’s held special residency in my heart for 20
years. More on that part of the story in a moment.
In the meantime, one could say Slocums -- as my wife and I have always
affectionately called it -- has been languishing in the doldrums lately.
Business has been less than brisk. So as it was in Melville’s classic
“Moby Dick” -- when Captain Ahab orders his swabbies to the boats to row
the Pequod out of the doldrums -- Finegold has whistled all hands on deck
in a bid to steer Slocums into the nearest zephyr.
Now, when a captain’s intent on saving his ship, you don’t ask
questions. But in Finegold’s case, you have to wonder. In his bid to turn
the tide in Slocums’ favor, Finegold has enlisted former
NBA-rebound-god-turned-freak-boy Dennis Rodman. By the way, I find it
oddly coincidental that Rodman bears a striking resemblance to Quequeg,
the tattoo-plastered, bone-wearing harpooner whose self-predicted death
in “Moby Dick” foreshadowed the ultimate demise of the Pequod. I’m not
sure what that means, but I don’t think it’s good.
Anyway, it seems that in exchange for a few bills from Rodman’s hefty
money clip, Finegold has agreed to let Rodman use Josh Slocums as a
canvas for his budding career in interior design. That’s probably not the
best idea he could hatch. It’s nothing against Rodman, mind you. Only
that my sentimentality for Slocums’ rustic, romantic, nautical theme is
colliding headlong with Rodman’s loud and eclectic tastes.
I have harder evidence for worry. The Daily Pilot reports that velvet
and leopard skin sofas will be central elements of Rodman’s new motif for
Slocums. Knowing Rodman’s penchant for the bawdy, I’m thinking patrons
might find a few ceiling swings as well. But I have no proof.
Even Slocums’ traditional surf-and-turf menu is getting a high-end
make-over, with Finegold and partner bringing in a culinary movement
known as “nouveau Latino cuisine.” What’s that? Tofu chimichangas?
OK, so I’m having some fun with this. But it’s the only way I know to
mask a breaking heart.
That’s because back in October of 1981, the young executive editor of
Orange Coast magazine was introduced to a gaggle of new account
executives by then-publisher and owner Toni Tuso. One of these young
women had long and flowing tresses with magnificent curls, a smile that
brightened the room and eyes that danced with a happy sparkle in them.
The editor was particularly taken with her.
About a month later, that same young editor happened in to Josh
Slocums -- owned then by Joe, Owen and Ernie Minney -- to attend an event
hosted by Orange Coast. From his seat, he could see across the dining
room to a few tables on an elevated platform, where a waitress was
dutifully serving her patrons. The waitress was, to his great surprise,
the same girl he had met as one of the new sales reps at Orange Coast.
Only on this evening, she was dressed in a rather snug, dark blue leotard
and miniskirt, which revealed the most magnificent pair of legs he had
ever seen. These were gams you’d walk -- no, crawl -- over hot coals to
get to. He knew then that he was gazing upon the woman he would marry.
After this particular evening, that editor -- me -- and that girl --
my wife -- came to love Josh Slocums in so many ways. Whenever we went
there for a cocktail or dinner, we could always count on finding good old
Captain Shabby -- one of Slocums’ legendary regulars -- sitting at the
corner of the bar closest to the front door. My wife would receive a warm
and welcoming hug from Byron, Slocums’ amiable and astute manager. You’d
find Ricky behind the bar, a dazzlingly talented bartender who could spin
and twirl bottles like six-shooters long before Tom Cruise tried it in
the movie “Cocktail.”
As it was then with its grizzled seamen, its ever-playing tapes of
America’s Cup action, its parking lot cookouts after the
Newport-To-Ensenada race, Josh Slocums was as ideal an ambassador for
Newport Beach as the Chamber of Commerce could hope for. And for me,
personally, it was the place where I fell in love with my wife. But it is
no more.
I’ve never been big on people who are eager to tell me how to run my
business, particularly those folks who aren’t willing to back their
advice with their wallet. So I can’t fault Finegold in his bid to save
his restaurant. But I can’t help lamenting that the Josh Slocums I knew
has now fallen into the hands of Rodman, and that the place will probably
end up looking like a drug parlor from the ‘60s instead of the scruffy
seaside shanty it should be.
Probably I’ll duck my head in one more time to see what Rodman’s done
to the place, then abandon ship. And I’ll be remembering the fate of the
Pequod.
* BYRON DE ARAKAL is a writer and communications consultant. He lives
in Costa Mesa. His column runs Wednesdays. Readers may reach him with
news tips and comments via e-mail at [email protected].
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