STEPHEN SANTACROCE -- Dining Review

When upscale steakhouses began their comeback several years ago, I

wondered if it was just a passing fad, like cigar smoking or Tae-bo.

After all, in this health-crazed area, how long could Orange County’s

finest continue downing artery-clogging steaks before overwhelming guilt

sent them running to their therapists?

Well, judging by the crowds at Fleming’s Steakhouse in Newport Beach,

red meat is here to stay. My new theory is that if we’re going to splurge

every now and then, let’s do it right. Hence the popularity of Ben &

Jerry’s, Krispy Kreme Donuts, and, yes, thick cuts of prime beef.

Fleming’s follows the successful formula established by Morton’s and

Ruth’s Chris, and it’s no surprise. Paul Fleming, the “P.F” in the

successful chain of upscale Chinese eateries P.F. Chang’s, was an

original Ruth’s Chris operator. What differentiates his latest venture is

the signature wine list that offers more than 100 wines by the glass, as

well as by the bottle.

Inside, Fleming’s is brighter and more open than its more clubby

cousins. Polished hardwood and blown-glass lighting fixtures provide a

warm atmosphere that complements the large exhibition kitchen running

along one side of the room.

The large bar is usually crowded with diners or patrons simply

enjoying a cocktail and some appetizers. Despite the crowds, the bar

staff is polite and professional.

When my finicky friend Jasmine ordered a tuaca-tini, our bartender

patiently worked with her to get it just right -- even if it took three

tries. My Sapphire martini was perfect on the first try, allowing me time

to peruse the appetizing menu.

Without a doubt, the best appetizer at Fleming’s are the onion rings

($6.95). No wimpy shreds of paper-thin onion here. Inch-thick slices of

sweet onions are dipped in buttermilk and then dredged in seasoned bread

crumbs before being deep fried. The result is a crispy crust, encasing

tasty, sweet onions that are brought out stacked in a pyramid about a

foot high.

The shrimp cocktail ($9.95) demonstrates classic steakhouse

simplicity. Four plump, firm shrimp are arranged around a bowl of ice,

with a zesty cocktail sauce perched in the center.

Another good choice is the seared ahi ($10.50), which is dusted in

Cajun spices and served with a sinus-opening soy-wasabi sauce.

In keeping with the simple-is-best vein, my favorite salad is the

wedge of iceberg lettuce ($6.50), that’s topped with chopped tomatoes,

red onion and a judicial lacing of creamy dressing studded with thick

chunks of pungent blue cheese.

The garlicky Caesar ($5.95) is reliable, but could benefit from some

fresh anchovy.

For main courses, the menu follows the pattern now standard at most

upscale steakhouses. Steaks, chops and a handful of fish entrees are all

served a la carte, and the side dishes are ordered family style.

Fleming’s boasts that they use only aged, prime beef, and after trying

a few steaks, I don’t doubt it. All of the steaks are cooked in special

1,700-degree broilers and served on sizzling hot plates. Those worried

that their cholesterol has been running low will be pleased to note that

each steak is also drizzled with melted butter just before serving.

The filet mignon is served in two sizes, a hearty 12-ounce cut

($25.95) or a “petite” eight-ounce version ($19.95). Large or small, the

lean, melt-in-your-mouth cut was juicy and cooked exactly to the desired

degree of doneness. I like to ask for a side of the bearnaise sauce,

which is served with the veal chop, when I order this particular cut.

True steak aficionados seem to prefer the rib-eye as the cut of

choice. I tend to find most rib-eyes too fatty and was pleasantly

surprised that the cut at Fleming’s ($25.50) was well-marbled without

being gristly. I’d order it again.

A 22-ounce T-bone ($29.95) was offered as a special one evening, and I

couldn’t resist. Bone-in steaks seem to have more flavor, and I love the

combination of filet and New York strip that make up each “side” of this

cut. Unfortunately, it’s a difficult steak to cook right -- the leaner

filet tends to cook faster than its fattier neighbor.

Fleming’s version came close. The New York strip was medium-rare, as I

ordered, but the filet portion was too close to medium to be perfect.

Close enough, though, that I finished it without further thought.

For those craving something other than a steak, Fleming’s offers an

excellent veal chop ($26.95), a thick 16-ounce portion cut from the lean

part of the veal loin. Fish lovers will like the salmon ($19.50), a

generous filet served with a cabernet butter sauce.

Side dishes include sauteed mushrooms ($6.95), cooked in butter with

lots of fresh garlic. Spinach lovers can get two versions, one sauteed

($4.50) with brown butter and red onions. The brown butter adds a nice

nutty flavor to the mild greens. Or try the creamed spinach ($5), cooked

with real cream and parmigian cheese.

No less than six potato dishes are offered. Trust me, order the

shoestring potatoes ($4.95), a heaping platter of crispy fried potatoes

seasoned only with salt and pepper. I’ve never seen an order with any

left, no matter the size of the party.

The wine by the glass policy is unique, and is a great way to sample

different food and wine pairings. The per-bottle prices are higher than

comparable restaurants, especially those on the reserve list, which are

only available by the bottle.

Although the selection is impressive, there are few French or Italian

wines. If you’re craving a good Burgundy, bring your own and pay the $15

corkage.

Fleming’s is solid proof that upscale steakhouses are not a passing

fancy. The restaurant is crowded on most nights of the week, and the bar

is always doing a lively business. The combination of cold cocktails, an

impressive wine list and top-quality prime steaks has proven to be a

lasting, crowd-pleasing success.

* STEPHEN SANTACROCE’S restaurant reviews appear every other Thursday.

Send him your comments at [email protected].

FYI

What: Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar

Where: 455 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach

When: Dinner -- 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday , 5 to 11 p.m.

Friday and Saturday

How Much: Expensive

Call: (949) 720-9633