STEPHEN SANTACROCE -- Dining Review

It’s easy to become somewhat complacent dining out week after week.

Variations on the same trend become commonplace, and it is increasingly

difficult to find someplace unique and different. But unique and

different was the promise of owner Rich Mead of Sage Restaurant in

Newport Beach, and for the most part he delivers on that promise.

Sage, located in the “elbow” of Eastbluff Center in Newport Beach,

features a menu billed as creative American cuisine. Mead, who has no

formal training as a chef, has worked in some of L.A.’s finer restaurants

and opened the retail operations of Santa Monica Seafood, an experience

that taught him the value of using only the freshest ingredients. He

travels to Los Angeles often, and can be found on Saturdays at the Irvine

Farmer’s Market, selecting the produce and other ingredients for this

week’s menu.

Lacking the preconceptions that often come with a formal education,

Mead has instead observed his peer’s techniques, and from these

observations, created a menu marrying elements from many different

cuisines and styles.

The restaurant itself is understated, with bleached pine floors and

oak-trimmed French doors imparting an austere elegance. Just off the

entrance is the granite-topped bar, a nice spot to grab a bite if you’re

dining solo. An outdoor patio surrounds two sides of the building,

offering diners a quieter alternative to the main dining room, which we

found to be quite noisy, even when three-quarters full.

The menu at Sage is quite comprehensive, and there is always a page of

specials to further ponder. And if that weren’t enough, there are usually

one or two additions not listed that your waiter will gladly describe.

We started with one of these unlisted items on a recent visit, fried

green tomatoes ($6), a dish that perfectly illustrates the variety of

influences and flavors on the menu. Here, thick slices of green tomato

were lightly dusted with cornmeal, deep-fried and served with a simple

blue cheese dressing.

Nothing fancy, but the execution was perfect. The tomatoes were crisp

but not overdone, and the creamy dressing provided a cooling, mellow

counterpoint to the tartness of the vegetable. Mead’s mother is Chinese,

and there are touches of her Asian influences throughout the menu. Ahi

spring rolls ($7) are light and crisp, served with a Thai-influenced

dipping sauce that was just sweet enough and punctuated with a sharp

chili pepper bite.

Crab cakes ($9) are slightly less successful; I found them to have a

bit too much breading and not enough crab meat. I did, however, like the

grilled corn salad and crispy potato cake that completed the dish.

Mead is a daring chef, borrowing ideas and ingredients from all over

the world and combining them with mostly positive results. Grilled pork

tenderloin ($17) introduces some Scandinavian touches, accenting

perfectly roasted slices of pork with an applejack brandy sauce and sweet

and sour cabbage. Mead mischievously adds some Parmesan potato cakes to

the dish, a tangy offset to the sweet sauce.

There are some occasional near misses, as with the Hoisin glazed duck

breast ($19) listed as a special one evening. The dish got off to a good

start, with slices of tender duck breast artfully draped over a medley of

shiitake mushrooms, spinach and red peppers, and was enhanced by an

orange-infused soy mirin sauce. But the addition of sweet potato gnocchi

seemed an unnecessary distraction to an already successful dish.

There were no distractions to the excellent swordfish ($20), served

over wilted baby greens with a tomato and Greek olive salsa punctuated

with chunks of cucumber and shards of fresh basil. The fish was grilled

skillfully, giving it a crisp sear that sealed the juices, leaving the

flesh moist and flavorful. The completed dish was drizzled with a tart

lemon vinaigrette, which added a nice astringent end note.

Butter and cream sauces are noticeably absent on Sage’s menu, but

there is no lack of flavor or richness. For example, lamb sirloin ($19)

is flavored with a mustard soy rub that adds a pungent accent without

overpowering the meat and is finished with a simple red wine and garlic

reduction. Mashed sweet potatoes finish the dish.

Rich Mead knows the value of pairing good wines with good food, and

the wine list at Sage features a well-chosen selection of mostly

California wines to complement the menu and satisfy most budgets. Bring

your own bottle, and there’s a modest $5 corkage fee, $10 if you want

oversized crystal glasses.

Those preferring something harder will be glad to know Sage recently

acquired its full liquor license.

Sage is open for lunch Monday through Saturday, and the lunch menu

adds a selection of entree salads and sandwiches for lighter dining. Try

the grilled salmon salad ($14), flavored with candied pecans and a Dijon

horseradish vinaigrette, or grilled portobello mushroom sandwich ($9)

that is layered with smoked mozzarella, arugula and roasted red peppers.

Sage presents a decidedly different dining experience, thanks to the

creativity of a daring menu combined with an elegant, upscale decor.

Local’s have been coming since the restaurant opened in 1997 to enjoy the

inventive dishes, but word of mouth is spreading. So head over soon and

sample for yourself Sage’s creative offerings.

* STEPHEN SANTACROCE’s restaurant reviews appear every other Thursday.

Send him your comments at [email protected].

FYI

* WHAT: Sage

* WHERE: 2351 Eastbluff Drive, Newport Beach

* WHEN: Monday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. and Friday and

Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday, brunch is served from 10 a.m. to

3:30 p.m., dinner until 9:30 p.m.

* HOW MUCH: Moderately expensive

* PHONE: (949) 718-9650