STEPHEN SANTACROCE -- Dining review

When The Bungalow opened four years ago in Corona del Mar, it quickly

rose to the top of the local social scene, establishing itself as the

latest destination for the trendy but fickle cocktail set.

On its marquee, the restaurant bills itself as a place for steaks, chops,

fish and martinis, and it was perfectly poised to capitalize on the

revival of the upscale steakhouse and martini bars. Of course four years

is an eternity when you’re at the top, and the trendy cocktailers have

long since moved on to the latest “in” spot.

Don’t get me wrong, based on my recent visits, The Bungalow is still

doing a lively business. But the crowd these days seems more focused on

having a good meal and enjoying themselves, rather than on who’s checking

them out.

The restaurant lives up to its name from a decor standpoint, resembling a

1920s craftsman bungalow. The entrance leads directly into the bar area,

which sports 12 or so stools in front of a masculine oak bar. Several

booths and tables are scattered about, providing seating for small groups

of happy hour revelers or casual diners.

The bar and dining room both feature high, exposed-beam ceilings and

hardwood floors. Ceiling fans revolve lazily, adding to the simple,

relaxed tone. Tables and chairs are heavy wood accented in rich leather,

in the mission style, as are the lamps that add a touch of

sophistication.

A row of deep, red leather booths lines one wall -- providing a more

intimate setting for diners wanting a bit more privacy.

As is fitting of a restaurant that emphasizes on its cocktails, the menu

features a list of tempting appetizers suitable for sharing over an icy

traditional or cosmopolitan martini.

Seared rare ahi ($10.95) is a simple way to start the evening. Sushi

grade tuna is seared but still raw in the middle and served chilled with

a ginger soy dipping sauce. Continue the theme with an order of oysters

on the half shell ($9.95), which are always plump and fresh. The variety

served changes with the season.

Grilled artichokes ($7.50) are a popular starter at many dining spots

these days and The Bungalow’s version is as good as they get. The

artichoke is first steamed in a garlicky marinade, then quartered and

cooked on the wood grill. The result is a slight charring of the edges,

which adds a mellow smoky flavor, while fleshy leaves remain moist and

tender. My only complaint is that the garlic soy aioli tasted too much

like plain mayonnaise without enough of the garlic or ginger.

Less impressive are some of the salads.

I was disappointed with the tomato and onion choice ($6.75), particularly

because this used to be a favorite of mine. In the past the tomatoes were

thick slices of the freshest beefsteak variety, layered with paper-thin

slices of red onion. All topped with extra-virgin olive oil and crumbled

Roquefort cheese.

The salad I was served recently had tomatoes that were hard and lacked

real flavor, and the onions were sliced too thick, overpowering the dish.

Gone was the olive oil, replaced with a thin blue cheese/ranch-style

dressing that would seem more at home at the local salad bar.

The Caesar salad is better ($5.75): Crisp romaine is topped with a

pungent garlicky dressing and shavings of good Parmesan cheese. Some

anchovies or anchovy paste in the dressing would have made it even

better.

The Bungalow is first and foremost a steakhouse, and this is where the

kitchen excels. Owner Jim Walker proudly told me the restaurant recently

made American Airlines list of top 10 independent steakhouses in the

country. The menu boasts that it uses only prime-grade, cornfed,

Midwestern beef, aged a minimum 28 days.

I like leaner cuts and recently chose the petite filet ($21.95). This is

an 8-ounce cut from the tenderloin, which comes out fork tender and

moist. It’s the leanest cut, and best when served rare or medium rare.

Another favorite is the rib-eye ($23.95), which is more marbled,

resulting in a very flavorful steak. Bungalow cuts its rib-eye from the

loin end of the prime rib, so that it’s leaner than those found

elsewhere. But it still one of the best tasting cuts.

All the steaks are served with mashed potatoes and steamed vegetables.

For an extra $2.50, a choice of crumbled blue cheese, sauteed mushrooms

or fried onion strings can top the meat.

If you don’t tell my cardiologist I’ll give you my favorite pairings:

blue cheese on the filet mignon, mushrooms on the New York strip ($24.95)

and onion strings on the rib-eye.

Fish lovers won’t go hungry here either.

Grilled swordfish ($21.95) is served simply with a traditional lemon

caper butter. Or try the blackened ahi ($21.50). A coating of Cajun spice

adds a sharp accent to the fish, which is served rare with a soy-based

dipping sauce.

Of course a restaurant featuring the quality of steaks that The Bungalow

serves can’t skimp on the wine list, and the one here is quite

comprehensive. Several pages of domestic and French reds offer many

excellent pairings, and I was pleased to see some smaller, boutique

California wineries, such as Gainey and Presidio offered.

Diners wanting to bring something special from their own cellars will be

charged a modest $15 corkage.

The Bungalow, like its steaks, has aged well and continues to be a

popular crowd-pleaser. It’s a comfortable spot for a dining experience

that emphasizes the simpler pleasures: a cold martini, perfectly cooked

steaks and fine vintage wines.

FYI

WHAT: The Bungalow

HOURS: 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and

Saturday

WHERE: 2441 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar

HOW MUCH: Expensive

PHONE: (949) 673-6585