Dining Review

Stephen Santacroce

The holidays are in full swing, and while ideally this should be a time

of reflection, family and spiritual celebration, the reality is that this

is a stressful time for many. There always seems to be one more gift to

get at the last minute, and holiday parties seem to come fast and

furious.

In the midst of all this we try to do our own entertaining, be it a party

for our friends or a traditional family dinner. Entertaining can seem

overwhelming, and in the bustle of all the activity, lunches or evening

dinners fall by the wayside.

Luckily, area residents can turn to Pascal Epicerie as just the place to

find the finishing touches for that last-minute party, a takeout dinner

for two or 20, or a quick but tasty lunch during a break in your

shopping.

Located next to chef Pascal Ohlat’s signature restaurant, the Epicerie

provides specialty food products for aspiring gourmets, and delicious

prepared foods for a quick gourmet dinner.

The store is set up like an upscale deli, reminding me a lot of some of

the famous specialty food stores in New York City. Gleaming display cases

provide tantalizing glimpses of the pates, grilled meats, specialty

sausages and fabulous pastries that make up just a small part of the

offerings.

Several tables line one wall of the store, and there are more outside.

The other walls feature shelves and displays stacked with more specialty

items including imported mustards, teas, fine olive oils and other unique

items. Indeed, if there is a gourmet chef on your Christmas list, you can

probably complete much of your shopping for him or her right here.

Just beyond the main room is the wine shop, where a large selection of

regional French wines are available. The Epicerie specializes in wines

from the Languedoc, Provence and Rhone regions; many of their selections

are hard to find elsewhere.

It’s hard to know where to begin describing the food here because there

is so much offered. Many patrons come in from the nearby office towers to

enjoy a nice lunch.

Cold sandwiches are prepared earlier in the day and include some unique

choices such as grilled lamb loin with baby greens on walnut bread

($5.75). The lamb is juicy and cooked medium rare, and the whole-grain

mustard adds a tangy bite to the dish.

More in the Parisian style is a simple sandwich of French white ham

($4.75) served on a baguette with cornichons (tiny French pickles

marinated in vinegar). For an additional 20 cents the same sandwich can

be augmented with a slice of gruyere cheese -- either way it’s a simple

but satisfying light lunch.

The friendly staff will also be glad to grill a panini on request, a

baguette filled with smoked chicken, proscuitto or ham, along with goat

cheese or gruyere ($6.10). The sandwich is grilled on a special grill

that flattens and toasts the bread, and melts the cheese inside,

resulting in a very upscale grilled cheese sandwich.

Sandwiches only touch on what is offered here, as there are a staggering

variety of prepared foods available to go. Small mini quiches are filled

with a choice of mushrooms, leeks, tomatoes, or a classic lorraine

filling ($4.10) and make a nice meal for one accompanied by a salad or

some vegetables. The same quiches are available in a larger size, which

can easily serve eight to 10 as a first course ($18.75).

A variety of prepared salads offered by the pound ($6.20/lb) make great

side dishes. I’ve enjoyed the mixed wild mushrooms marinated with olive

oil and herbs, or the chopped Belgian endive mixed with baby asparagus

tips and tossed in a light vinaigrette.

As is common in French markets, there is usually a white bean dish, and

some sauteed or steamed vegetables, such as beets or green beans. Some of

the more popular items are the prepared meals available to go. These are

single-serving entrees, usually accompanied by a vegetable and some form

of starch (potatoes, noodles or lentils, to name a few), that are cooked

earlier in the day and packaged in oven-proof containers. Purchase a

couple of these, a side vegatable, pop them in the oven at home and 15

minutes later you’ve got a gourmet dinner for two.

Popular items include the Seabass au thyme ($10.95), one of the signature

dishes from Pascal’s restaurant that works well as a take-home dish. The

fish remains moist and the fresh thyme crust adds a delicious herbal

flavoring.

Other entrees change daily; there’s usually a poached salmon ($11.95) and

one or two stew-type dishes. The beef bourguignon is very good ($9.95), a

savory stew of beef chunks and vegetables cooked in red wine. I’ve also

tried the lamb osso bucco ($9.95), a lamb shank simmered until the meat

is falling off the bone.

The French like to follow their entrees with a cheese course, and Pascal

offers an excellent selection of hard-to-find French cheeses, from creamy

goat cheese to pungent bleu’s and mellow Muenster. All of the cheeses are

prices by the pound.

Of course a gourmet meal is not complete without dessert, and the

Epicerie will not disappoint. Mini pastries (starting at $2.20),

including tarts, eclairs and creme brulee are perfect for intimate

dinners for one or two. Larger cakes including Pascal’s signature lemon

tart ($26.50 for a nine-inch tart), or dense chocolate cake ($32) are

available to impress guests at your next dinner party.

It’s difficult to mention all of the wonderful items offered here, and I

haven’t even touched on the picnic box lunches, continental breakfast or

special holiday meals that can be made to order.

Aspiring chefs will also be glad to know that Pascal swears that if he

doesn’t carry an item, he’ll find it for you. Truffles, foie gras --

anything your gourmet heart desires -- can be ordered.

Stop in, browse, and pick up a bottle of wine and a few entrees to take

home. It’s a treat that will take the edge off of that holiday stress.

FYI

WHAT: Pascal Epicerie & Wine

WHERE: 1000 N. Bristol St., Newport Beach

WHEN: 7 a.m. to 7 p.m., Monday through Saturday

HOW MUCH: Moderate

PHONE: (949) 261-9041