The Wallace's grilled cauliflower

Toast the bread crumbs over moderate heat in a dry skillet on the stove until golden and crisp, 2 to 3 minutes (or spread out on a rimmed baking sheet in a 325-degree oven for 5 minutes). Stir the bread crumbs occasionally, watching that they do not burn. In the same manner, toast the almonds until aromatic and slightly darkened, 2 to 3 minutes, or 10 to 15 minutes in the oven.

Place the almonds in a food processor and pulse until they are reduced to the size of bread crumbs, then combine in a bowl with the bread crumbs, folding in the Parmesan cheese and parsley. This makes a scant cup of topping. Set aside.

In a blender, combine the crème fraîche, yogurt, lemon juice, garlic, cheese, Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper, combining to a smooth cream. Set aside.

In a small bowl or measuring cup, combine the oil, rosemary and garlic. Set aside.

Heat a grill or grill pan over medium-high heat until hot.

Season both sides of the cauliflower “steaks� with salt and pepper, then brush with the rosemary garlic oil. Place the steaks on the grill and cook as you would a steak, grilling until they develop a good char and begin to soften, 3 to 4 minutes. If the steaks are coloring too quickly and you are afraid they will burn, adjust the heat of the grill or move them to a cooler area to cook. Brush the steaks again and flip over, grilling the other side. The total grilling time should be 6 to 8 minutes, depending on the grill.

Remove the steaks and transfer to a cutting board, cutting off the florets. Place the cauliflower in a bowl and toss with the Parmesan cream and a little more rosemary garlic oil.

Mound on a serving plate while still warm. Garnish with almond bread crumbs (you may not use all of them), along with fried rosemary and capers if desired. Serve immediately.