Heavenly eggnog (plus variations)
The usual ingredients — eggs, sugar, seasonings, heavy cream, milk and spirits — are each finessed to its fullest potential. Cream is whipped to stiff peaks, then chilled. Egg whites are beaten to stiff peaks; the yolks are whisked with spirits over a hot water bath before also being chilled. Finally, the ingredients are gently folded together to give the resulting drink rich, full-bodied character with a light, almost whimsical feel. The cognac (rather than just a standard brandy) and ground star anise, give this eggnog a whole new, almost exotic, identity.
From the story: Eggnog as you’ve never had it
Beat the cream in a stand mixer (or in a medium chilled bowl, using a hand mixer), until stiff peaks form, about 3 minutes. Refrigerate the whipped cream until needed.
In a double boiler or in a heat-proof bowl set over simmering water, combine the egg yolks, one-half cup of sugar and Cognac. Whisking constantly, cook the egg mixture until it thickens slightly, is warm to the touch and looks satiny and white, 3 to 5 minutes. Cool the mixture by placing it over an ice bath and whisking, then refrigerate.
In the bowl of a stand mixer (or in a large bowl, using a hand mixer), whip the egg whites to stiff peaks along with the star anise, cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg and the remaining 2 teaspoons sugar. Set aside.
Fold the egg white mixture gently into the chilled egg yolks, then, again very gently, fold in the chilled whipped cream and milk, each a little at a time, until incorporated. Refrigerate until ready to serve. To serve, pour into chilled glasses or eggnog cups (or demitasses), with a pinch of allspice. The eggnog will keep for 1 day, covered and refrigerated.
Nut brittle nog: Whisk one-fourth cup smooth peanut butter into the milk before incorporating. Substitute one-half cup vodka and one-half cup hazelnut liqueur for the Cognac. Spice with 1 teaspoon vanilla, one-half teaspoon almond extract, one-fourth teaspoon cinnamon and one-eighth teaspoon ground nutmeg. Garnish: a bit of ground nutmeg.
Wry vanilla eggnog: Substitute dark brown sugar for the sugar; don’t add sugar to the egg whites (use only the one-half cup for the yolks). Substitute rye whiskey for the Cognac. Spice with 1 scraped vanilla pod. Garnish: nutmeg.
Scotch ‘n’ honey nog: Substitute 2 tablespoons chestnut honey for the total sugar (add to the egg yolks) and a Scotch for the Cognac. Omit the spices. Garnish: a swirl of chestnut honey.
Rum-coco nog: Don’t add sugar to the egg whites (use only the one-half cup for the yolks). Substitute dark rum for the Cognac and 2 cups coconut milk for the milk. Spice with one-fourth teaspoon vanilla, one-half teaspoon ground cinnamon and a pinch of ground allspice. Garnish: toasted coconut.
Pink nog-tini: Don’t add sugar to the egg whites (use only the one-half cup for the yolks). Substitute three-fourths cup gin (preferably Plymouth), one- fourth cup sweet vermouth, one- eighth cup maraschino liqueur and one-eighth cup grenadine for the Cognac, and one-half teaspoon almond extract for the spices. Garnish: a maraschino cherry sliver.
Naranja nog: Don’t add sugar to the egg whites (use only the one-half cup for the yolks). Substitute three-fourths cup tequila (preferably anejo), one-fourth cup orange liqueur, and 2 dashes orange bitters for the Cognac. Spice with 1 teaspoon vanilla, one-eighth teaspoon cloves and one-fourth teaspoon ground cinnamon. Garnish: an orange twist.
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