Guizhou-Style Kung Pao Chicken

For the chile paste: Place the chiles in a bowl and cover with boiling water. Place a little dish on the chiles to keep them immersed, and leave until softened, at least 5 minutes. Drain the chiles. Place them in a mortar with the garlic and ginger and pound to a coarse paste, or pulse to a paste in a small food processor or with an immersion blender.

For the chicken: Place the chicken, starch, salt and 2 tablespoons cold water in a medium bowl. Mix until evenly coated.

For the sauce: Combine the sugar, vinegar, wine, starch and both soy sauces in a small bowl and mix until the sugar dissolves.

To stir-fry: Heat a well-seasoned wok, large cast-iron skillet or other large skillet over very high heat. Add 3 tablespoons oil, carefully swirl to coat the bottom and sides, and immediately add the marinated chicken. Stir-fry to separate the pieces. When the chicken pieces have gone pale but are not fully cooked, about 3 minutes, transfer to a plate.

Set the wok over medium heat. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons oil and when the oil shimmers but before it smokes, add the chile paste and stir-fry until sizzling, 1 to 2 minutes. Take care not to burn the chiles. Add the ginger, scallion whites and sweet flour sauce, turn the heat up to high and stir-fry until aromatic, 1 to 2 minutes. Return the chicken to the wok and mix well.

Pour the sauce into the center of the wok, then stir as it thickens and cloaks the chicken, 3 to 4 minutes. Finally, stir in the scallion greens and serve immediately.