From the archives: L.A. Times restaurant reviews from 2008 and even earlier

Suddenly, the Venetian actually feels like Italy. B&B is grand but not fussy, with Italian whites to dream over.

Bistro classics get special treatment in Costa Mesa.

Two creative chefs bring their personal best to new San Diego County restaurants: Addison and the modern bistro Market.

Chef Mark Gold, who most recently ran the kitchen at Cafe Pinot downtown, is turning out some terrific food. Who knew he could cook like this?

There’s something so sensual about Silverton’s relationship to food and her aesthetic that’s entirely her own -- direct, focused, uncompromised.

At Cut, Wolfgang Puck shows beef’s serious side in a smart, sophisticated setting. What a thrilling addition to the scene.

Michael Mina masters the art of the unexpected at Stonehill Tavern. It’s so urban chic, you’d never dream you’re in a Dana Point luxury resort.

Joel Robuchon was at the pinnacle when he retired 10 years ago. Now he’s back.

At Triumphal Palace in Alhambra, each dish is flawlessly executed. The dim sum is meticulous, the roast pig sublime.

With subtlety and finesse, Michael Cimarusti hits his stride at Providence.

With some of the most inspired food around, chef Craig Strong quietly thrills palates at Pasadena’s Ritz-Carlton.

For those who really know Chinese food, New Concept Restaurant in Monterey Park is the place of the moment.

At La Terza on 3rd Street, Gino Angelini and his two partners make serious Italian food and wine not just accessible, but irresistible.

Hiro Urasawa, once Masa’s assistant, masters the art of intricate and exquisite sushi at the former Ginza Sushiko.

Florida chef Norman Van Aken brings his global palette to L.A. diners.

At Jar, chef-owner Suzanne Tracht thrives on the discipline of repetition. After two and a half years, she’s hit her stride.

Vibrant, sexy and relaxed, the new Patina at Disney Hall attracts a lively crowd before and after concerts.

Whether for omakase or sushi from the menu, Morihiro Onodera delivers a singular experience at Mori Sushi.

A new chef and sommelier have added energy to Santa Monica’s beloved Valentino. Yet it is still very much a classic.

At one time, French restaurants were the epitome of fine dining in L.A.

An amazing artichoke soup with gnarly black truffles and marvelous aged Parmesan shaved over the top.

The food at the hotel’s restaurant is down-to-earth but contemporary, with big, bold flavors.

The casual new Japanese restaurant, specializing in skewers of grilled meats and vegetables, is a departure for chef Mako Tanaka.

Carolynn Spence unveils a homey new menu, but the true dining standout is the romantic courtyard garden.

Once you get past the quirky way Father’s Office operates, you’ll find a bigger selection of high-end pub grub at its second locale.

The Wilshire Boulevard restaurant has affordable daily specials, an attentive staff and a talented chef in Sabu Hoshino.

Paul Shoemaker adds an a la carte menu to the elegant French restaurant.

Chef André Guerrero smartly transforms his restaurant and puts everyday appeal squarely on the menu.

Sorry, Charlie, but your Costa Mesa restaurant needs help.

The new restaurant has a smart seasonal menu, great atmosphere and delicious food.

The Wine Cask’s ambitious menu reflects the new regime at the restaurant and wine shop. The results? Mixed, but promising.

Chef Alain Giraud, late of Bastide and before that Citrus, is back in town with a brasserie.

The low-key bistro packs in the locals with its fresh, seasonal menu and its killer desserts.

The ‘Hell’s Kitchen’ chef offers sophisticated fare in a glamorous setting.

Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo from Food Network’s ‘Two Dudes Catering’ show open a restaurant that focuses on meat dishes. They don’t hold back on the sugar and salt.

Octavio Becerra’s new Glendale bistro-wine bar is just revving up. Its fresh and polished food celebrates California’s great bounty of local ingredients.

Chef Joshua Siegel took a DIY approach to open his neighborhood place, then built a menu with integrity and charm.

New chef Julia Wolfson has recharged the original menu with inspiring seasonal dishes in a conversation-friendly setting.

Chef Nicholas Weber has a way with crudo -- Italian-style raw fish -- and plenty of other smart ideas besides.

With chef and co-owner Nicola Mastronardi, the queen of the Brentwood Italians offers an authentic dining experience with fresh ideas and classics.

The beachy restaurant’s scene, an L.A. institution, is home to surf, scene and sunsets. But it may leave you dining adrift.

The wine-centric restaurant on PCH puts chef Michael McDonald’s kitchen center stage.

A little ouzo, a lot of mezes, the ocean breeze. You could be vacationing in Greece -- but it’s Malibu.

The dining room by designer Michael S. Smith and the Cal-Ital menu by executive chef Michael Reardon both emphasize casual simplicity.

New owners of the Fair Oaks institution have beefed up the menu with comfort food at affordable prices, including more barbecue.

Beso in Hollywood has the sexy allure of its owner, Eva Longoria Parker. Diners watch and wait for a star sighting.

Laurent Tourondel’s West Hollywood steakhouse knows the drill: expertly cooked meats and a menu to accommodate all tastes.

West Hollywood is the latest landing place for Nobu Matsuhisa’s global brand of restaurants

Chef Marco Cavuoto offers classic Italian cooking at his sleek, contemporary-designed restaurant in Long Beach’s Naples area.

Akasha proves that a green restaurant can offer healthful comfort food and an appealing urban vibe.

A chic newcomer to bohemian Silver Lake, LA Mill is outshining every other cafe in town.

It’s the newest sushi bar on the block. But you’re better off looking beyond the raw fish to Bond Street’s salads, vegetables and main course seafood and meat dishes.

Chef Michel Richard stages a virtual return, bringing artful cuisine to the menu at Social Hollywood.

At this French brassiere in West Hollywood, it’s actually quiet enough to talk in.

Dominick’s offspring in Los Feliz has a warm, welcoming vibe. But Little Dom’s is still finding its way.

With a new chef at the helm and the bar scene toned down, Wilshire restaurant has reinvented itself.

The nostalgic restaurant near San Luis Obispo takes pride in homey favorites with a sophisticated flourish.

With Bar Pintxo, Joe Miller of Joe’s in Venice gives the Westside its closest thing to a true tapas bar: great Spanish wines, ham and fun.

Flat, round, shell. On the menu at Paperfish, the latest restaurant from the owners of Patina and Cafe Pinot, no fish is safe.

Former Piccolo chef Alberto Lazzarino’s Hollywood ristorante features Piedmont’s distinctive cuisine.

In Huntington Beach, chef Takashi Abe ups the ante on Japanese pub-style dining.

Deft young chef Brien Clements brightens his creative tasting menus with garden-inspired flourishes.

Co-owned by club entrepreneur Shereen Arazm, it has a scene as hot and heavy as its affordable southern Italian food.

This twentysomething local favorite has a casual vibe and a healthy heart.

Chef David Myers’ West Hollywood brasserie is fashionably French and bursting with life. Reservations are a must.

I heard about it from an O.C. friend: a new restaurant and lounge just opened in Costa Mesa.

The prime location, vast sushi-fusion menu and white-on-white décor up the ante.

Time for that important holiday dinner out? As always, Suzanne Goin’s got your back. Nine years in, this chef’s chef continues to delight.

Alive with vibrant colors, this Restaurant Row newcomer packages Indian cooking with a bit of panache.

A $250 pizza, black ‘muscles’ in spicy red sauce and an outdoor sushi bar. Honey, we’re not at Schatzi anymore.

Service is as good as it gets in Los Angeles: From amuses to chocolates, the experience at Bastide is seamless.

Chef Antonio Mure rides again -- as chef and owner of the casual Il Carpaccio in hungry Pacific Palisades.

The former Doug Arango’s wakes up and goes casual, with down-to-earth prices and a terrific wine list.

In Claremont, a passionate chef goes beyond the expected.

Grab a seat at the bar and jump right in at Silverton and Batali’s lively, high-spirited new spot.

The landmark terrace restaurant promises a glimpse of the good life.

Tucked into a graceful converted cottage is a new neighbor worth getting to know.

Tom Colicchio brings his gutsy, mature cooking and New York style to L.A.

The party continues six years later. The wine flows, the oven roars, the gang’s all here.

The crowd is different, but the food at Suzanne Tracht’s new chophouse-under-the-stars hits her same serious marks.

At the Santa Monica restaurant where Dominique Crenn is chef, you might find mustard frost or merguez foam. Isn’t that romantic?

Chef-owner Antonio Tommasi, who helped introduce L.A. to northern Italian cuisine, is back in the house.

The restaurant hits Santa Barbara with a fresh attitude and a Hollywood reputation. Is it ready to settle in?

Its young chef is reeling in Central Coast locals and wine tourists alike.

Part of the cityscape for 10 years now, Traxx is a soothing oasis in a splendid architectural setting

Santa Monica spot has an elegant vibe with an imaginative menu.

With a new chef and former management back on the scene, the Chateau Marmont’s namesake scorese with lusty pub fare.

At the poolside terrace, a new chef’s updated chophouse menu brings a grown-up liveliness to the classic Sunset Strip setting.

Eric Greenspan’s small but changing menu delivers polished California-French, including some especially yummy appetizers.