The Review: Gusto

Gusto is a deceptively modest, down-to-earth restaurant with some of the best Italian cooking L.A. has seen in a long while.   (Francine Orr / Los Angeles Times)

Desserts do not disappoint at this restaurant. One example: a toasted coconut gelato pie with a graham cracker crust, served atop chocolate fonduta.  (Francine Orr / Los Angeles Times)

Pasta is served with a rich, complex oxtail ragu that clings to every strand.   (Francine Orr / Los Angeles Times)

Agnolotti are stuffed with ricotta, mint and sweet English peas. The morsels are cloaked in butter and lemon.   (Francine Orr / Los Angeles Times)

The gargati is made with a fennel sausage, rosemary and Parmigiano Reggiano.  (Francine Orr / Los Angeles Times)

Pork meatballs are bathed in a tomato sauce.   (Francine Orr / Los Angeles Times)

For the polipo, baby octopus, the tentacles are crisp at the edges, the body sweet and meaty. It’s paired with chickpeas in a spicy harissa sauce.   (Francine Orr / Los Angeles Times)

Casanova serves an uptown Milanese with sweetbreads, wild arugula, sweet tomatoes, shaved Parmigiano Reggiano and lemon.  (Francine Orr / Los Angeles Times)

Butterflied quail is served atop polenta with slivered radicchio and a drizzle of aceto balsamico as a main course.   (Francine Orr / Los Angeles Times)

Gusto can feel like home for anyone who grew up Italian, or even if you didn’t.   (Francine Orr / Los Angeles Times)