Chef Rocio Camacho makes a greater variety of moles than anyone else. They are served with veal, steak, fish, chicken breast or shrimp. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
The mole sampler comes with the nopales-tinted tortillas. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Rocio’s Mole de los Dioses has been on Sunland Boulevard in Sun Valley, near Bob Hope Airport in Burbank, since January. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Chef Rocio Camacho, who also has a restaurant in Bell, garnishes a plate of mole poblano salmon with sesame seeds at Rocio’s Mole de los Dioses restaurant. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
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Empanadas also show the effect of the heavy emphasis here on cactus. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Grasshopper soup comes garnished with, yes, real grasshoppers. They make for crunchy croutons in a bacony-flavored soup. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Co-owner Alonso Arellano talks with customers in the colorful dining room. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
A rich mole is spooned over poblano salmon. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)