Photos: Pistola

The carne cruda is one of the many dishes at Pistola that are shaped into a cylinder.  (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)

Chef Vic Casanova is an old-school Italian American chef who was raised in the Bronx.  (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)

The chopped salad is made with radicchio, provolone and salami.  (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)

A Brussels sprouts dish is among the sides on Pistola’s menu.  (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)

Pistola is dark, masculine and a little bit clubby. It’s in the space that was once Suzanne Goin’s AOC on West 3rd Street.  (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)

Lobster Fra Diavalo, artistically twisted with a claw.  (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)

Chef Casanova’s rigatoni is spicy, tart and tomato-intensive.  (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)

The cocktail bar at Pistola. Jonathan Gold recommends the Rocket Man cocktail, made with pureed arugula.  (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)