This new Koreatown restaurant has ‘crack’ fries, fancy burgers and pie

If you happen to find yourself in Koreatown and somehow without a craving for budae jjigae, you might head to Little Tart. It’s the new restaurant in the former Saint Martha space from the team behind Tart at the Farmer’s Daughter Hotel.

The idea here is comfort food — there isn’t a single salad on the menu, which is not an accident. The closest thing you get to a vegetable is the coleslaw, or maybe the pickle spears.

The menu, by executive chef Keith Shutta, who is also the chef at Tart, is broken into four sections: sausages, burgers, chicken and sides. There are three burgers on the menu, including the I’m All In, topped with bacon jam, mushrooms, Taleggio cheese and crispy onion strings on a ciabatta bun. (And if you think all this burger needs is a fried egg, you can add one, because we live in the Egg Era.)

There’s a spiced lamb sausage topped with soft scrambled eggs; and an English pork banger topped with tater tots, onion sauce, white cheddar and cabbage. Then there’s the fried half-chicken, which is drizzled with honey. It’s served on coleslaw with green onion and peanuts, on a metal tray — as are all the dishes at Little Tart.

And where there are burgers, there are fries. Except the fries at Little Tart are called “crack� fries. Why compare them to a highly addictive, very illegal substance? Because they are waffle-cut sweet potato fries covered in a sticky, sweet honey reduction, that’s why.

To drink, there’s plenty of craft beer and wine. And for dessert: pie.

If you ever enjoyed a meal at the chefs counter at Saint Martha, you may remember that hipster neon sign that glowed above the doorway to the kitchen. It’s still there, but that’s about the only element that remains from the old restaurant. Ellen Picataggio redesigned the space, and replaced the front wall with a large window, so you can watch people fight for parking spaces while you eat your burger.

740 S. Western Ave., No. 116, Los Angeles, (213) 387-2300, www.littletartrestaurant.com.

I crush crack fries like nobody else. Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Jenn_Harris_

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