Salute your holiday gatherings with eggnog and our other festive cocktail recipes

For many revelers, the holidays aren’t complete without an appropriate libation, be it Christmas punch, a flute of bubbly or a glass of eggnog. We’ve compiled some of our favorite holiday cocktails in one handy place, whether you’re looking for the proper way to ring in the new year, or something to keep the guests warm on a chilly evening.

Whether you love eggnog or have never considered yourself a fan of the concoction, you’ll want to at least check out this recipe (I was never big on the drink, but now fix this every year as a holiday tradition). It’s based on the eggnog recipe in Gray Kunz and Peter Kaminsky’s excellent book “The Elements of Taste.� At first glance, it’s nothing special, with all the usual ingredients: eggs, sugar, seasonings, heavy cream, milk and spirits. But each ingredient is finessed to its fullest potential. Cream is whipped to stiff peaks, then chilled. Egg whites are beaten to stiff peaks; the yolks are whisked with spirits over a hot water bath before also being chilled. Finally, the ingredients are gently folded together to give the resulting drink rich, full-bodied character with a light, almost whimsical feel.

Use this method, but feel free to get creative with the spirit bases and flavorings. For rum-coco nog, begin with rum, a traditional base for eggnog, but substitute coconut milk for regular milk, and spice with cinnamon and allspice. Substituting rye whiskey for the Cognac and using brown sugar for the sweetener yield a decidedly adult eggnog with butterscotch overtones. Have fun with a a tequila-based eggnog with an orange liqueur — you’ll get a fresh, citrus-cream eggnog that reminds you of why you love orange gelato. And don’t be afraid to make the colorful pink nog-tini with gin, sweet vermouth, maraschino liqueur and grenadine. It’s definitely different but perfectly suited for the holidays with the faint aroma of pine and hints of juniper and cherry.

You can find these and other variations below, along with the original recipe.

HEAVENLY EGGNOG

Total time: 20 minutes / Serves 12

Note: Adapted from “The Elements of Taste� by Gray Kunz and Peter Kaminsky. Ground star anise is generally available at gourmet markets and cooking stores, as well as online. You may also grind whole star anise pods, which are widely available, in a spice grinder or coffee mill.

3/4 cup heavy cream

6 eggs, separated

1/2 cup plus 2 teaspoons sugar, divided

1 cup Cognac

1/2 teaspoon finely ground star anise

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice, plus more for garnish

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 cup milk

1. Beat the cream in a stand mixer (or in a medium chilled bowl, using a hand mixer) until stiff peaks form, about 3 minutes. Refrigerate the whipped cream until needed.

2. In a double boiler or in a heat-proof bowl set over simmering water, combine the egg yolks, one-half cup of sugar and Cognac. Whisking constantly, cook the egg mixture until it thickens slightly, is warm to the touch and looks satiny and white, 3 to 5 minutes. Cool the mixture by placing it over an ice bath and whisking, then refrigerate.

3. In the bowl of a stand mixer (or in a large bowl, using a hand mixer), whip the egg whites to stiff peaks along with the star anise, cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg and the remaining 2 teaspoons sugar. Set aside.

4. Fold the egg white mixture gently into the chilled egg yolks, then, again very gently, fold in the chilled whipped cream and milk, each a little at a time, until incorporated. Refrigerate until ready to serve. To serve, pour into chilled glasses or eggnog cups (or demitasses), with a pinch of allspice. The eggnog will keep for 1 day, covered and refrigerated.

Each of 12 (half-cup) servings: 179 calories; 4 grams protein; 11 grams carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 9 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 128 mg. cholesterol; 49 mg. sodium.

EGGNOG VARIATIONS

AMARETTO-APRICOT EGGNOG

Reduce the sugar to 2 tablespoons, to be cooked with the yolks (no sugar for the egg whites). Substitute three-fourths cup amaretto liqueur and one-fourth cup apricot liqueur for the Cognac. Omit the spices. Garnish: grated orange zest.

NUT BRITTLE NOG

Whisk one-fourth cup smooth peanut butter into the milk before incorporating. Substitute one-half cup vodka and one-half cup hazelnut liqueur for the Cognac. Spice with 1 teaspoon vanilla, one-half teaspoon almond extract, one-fourth teaspoon cinnamon and one-eighth teaspoon ground nutmeg. Garnish: a bit of ground nutmeg.

WRY VANILLA NOG

Substitute dark brown sugar for the sugar; don’t add sugar to the egg whites (use only the one-half cup for the yolks). Substitute rye whiskey for the Cognac. Spice with 1 scraped vanilla pod. Garnish: nutmeg.

SCOTCH ’N’ HONEY NOG

Substitute 2 tablespoons chestnut honey for the total sugar (add to the egg yolks) and a Scotch for the Cognac. Omit the spices. Garnish: a swirl of chestnut honey.

RUM-COCO NOG

Don’t add sugar to the egg whites (use only the one-half cup for the yolks). Substitute dark rum for the Cognac and 2 cups coconut milk for the milk. Spice with one-fourth teaspoon vanilla, one-half teaspoon ground cinnamon and a pinch of ground allspice. Garnish: toasted coconut.

PINK NOG-TINI

Don’t add sugar to the egg whites (use only the one-half cup for the yolks). Substitute three-fourths cup gin (preferably Plymouth), one-fourth cup sweet vermouth, one-eighth cup maraschino liqueur and one-eighth cup grenadine for the Cognac, and one-half teaspoon almond extract for the spices. Garnish: a maraschino cherry sliver.

NARANJA NOG

Don’t add sugar to the egg whites (use only the one-half cup for the yolks). Substitute three-fourths cup tequila (preferably anejo), one-fourth cup orange liqueur, and 2 dashes orange bitters for the Cognac. Spice with 1 teaspoon vanilla, one-eighth teaspoon cloves and one-fourth teaspoon ground cinnamon. Garnish: an orange twist.

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