A good grasp on a new idea in jewelry
At the West Hollywood studio of artist Jeffrey Gold, jeweler Jeffrey Beri noticed a sculpture of a human hand atop a table.
That planted the seed of an idea: jewelry centered on this particular appendage.
Hand to Hand by J&F is Beri’s debut under the brand he launched 18 months ago, after 25 years on and off with David Yurman, a jewelry brand long beloved among the red carpet set.
Hand to Hand by J&F — the initials belong to Gold and a third partner, Swedish artist Ann-Sofie Lakso, who goes by the name Fred — is set to launch exclusively at Maxfield in Los Angeles on Wednesday. Beri describes the line as “miniaturized works of art†in which the hand — in a peace sign, a fist pump, fingers crossed — is front and center. The pieces are handmade by Beri from a wax carving done by Gold in the brand’s West Hollywood workshop.
“To make jewelry based on a part of the body is challenging,†said Beri, who shuttles between Los Angeles and New York. “Each style has its own history and philosophy.â€
Lakso researched the genesis of each motif: Crossed fingers originated in 16th century England, where people crooked one finger over another to ward off bad luck. The peace sign was devised in 1941 by a Belgian refugee to represent V for “Victoire†and to motivate others to seek justice. Namaste — hands benevolently folded as if in prayer — symbolizes another’s divinity.
Beri and Gold have woven seven vignettes into hands that come in gold, silver, bronze or a new material, XMetal, a compilation of alloys, rendered in necklaces and bracelets. The hands are pendants suspended from chains in 18-karat green gold and anti-tarnish silver, African wooden beads, waxy hand-cut leather and briolettes in yellow and blue sapphires and black diamonds. They can be worn layered or as a choker with a signature clasp. Details are rich: a tiny floral emblem, a miniature rivulet of diamonds, acid-washed gold, silver oxidized for a well-worn feel. The esoteric symbol for chakras, energy points in the body according to Hindu tradition, is relief-carved on certain styles.
“Each piece is numbered and comes with an authenticity card inside a suede-lined box,†said Beri of the limited-edition collection. “And we’re not doing any custom designs. This is it.â€
Prices will range from $675 to $85,000, with most pieces in the $1,700 to $3,600 range.
Sarah Stewart, buyer for Maxfield, said she was particularly interested in Hand to Hand because of its unisex appeal.
“I also like that there are a lot of positive symbols associated with it,†she said. “It’s like wearing something that reflects how you are feeling. It’s good when a piece of jewelry can be personalized like that.â€
Hand to Hand is a launch pad for Beri’s plan to join the worlds of art and jewelry. He is in early talks with Thor Peterson, a rancher in Patagonia, Ariz., who sculpts steel and metal, to potentially bow a jewelry line based on longhorn skulls and deer antlers.
“There’s no end to the possibilities,†he said.
