2003 E. Guigal Crozes-Hermitage

Another stellar effort from the king of the northern Rhone. Marcel Guigal may be most famous for his single vineyard Cote Roties, but every wine he makes bears the stamp of his meticulous winemaking skill. In the 2003 vintage, his Crozes-Hermitage (the little brother of Hermitage) is a pure expression of Syrah. It’s deep and concentrated, spicy and voluptuous, and has something gnarly and wild in there that grabs your attention and holds it.

For this wine, bring on the dishes with big bold flavors. This baby can hold its own with roast leg of lamb with garlic and rosemary, a beef daube with olives, grilled duck breast rubbed with wild herbs or a pugnacious steak au poivre.

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Quick swirl

Region: Northern Rhone

Price: About $20

Style: Spicy and concentrated

Food it goes with: Roast leg of lamb, beef daube, steak au poivre, magret.

Where you find it: Renegade Wines in Santa Barbara, (805) 568-1961; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 769-4639; Wine House in Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731.

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-- S. Irene Virbila