2005 Loimer Gruner Veltliner

Sushi is a fact of life in L.A. But what wine, other than sake, is a true complement? I’m always trying different whites -- Albarino, Graves, Chablis. Lately, I’m drinking Gruner Veltliner from Austria, and in particular, the 2005 vintage from Fred Loimer in the Kamptal region. The taste is crisp, juicy, and ever so slightly saline with a characteristic bite of white pepper.

It goes equally well with yellowtail sashimi and straight-ahead sushi, but also holds its own against those wacky California and other more elaborate rolls. Bring on the dynamite! It also drinks well with oysters, a chilled seafood platter and crab cakes.

---

Quick swirl

Region: Kamptal

Price: About $14

Style: Crisp and lively

Food it goes with: Sushi and sashimi, Sichuan and Cantonese, oysters and chilled shellfish.

Where you find it: Beverages & More stores, (925) 730-5247; www.bevmo.com Wine Country in Signal Hill, (562) 597-8303; and the Wine House in West Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731.

-- S. Irene Virbila