2002 Domaine Raymond Launay Ladoix Clou d’Orge

If you want to drink Burgundies, you generally have to pony up with some money, and even then, there’s no guarantee you’ll drink well. Which is why this white Burgundy is such an astonishing find for less than $30. It’s beautifully made, with a lush texture and haunting notes of citrus, oak and vanilla. Think baby Corton-Charlemagne from a vineyard that’s cheek by jowl with the famous Corton vineyards.

Whenever I open a bottle, I can’t stop drinking. It might start out as an aperitif, but it can follow right to the table too. Serve it with poached oysters, leek and potato soup, lobster or scallop risotto, or maybe some of those sweet little sauteed bay scallops.

Quick swirl

Region: Burgundy

Price: About $25

Style: Elegant and restrained

Food it goes with: Poached oysters, leek and potato soup, lobster or scallop risotto, bay scallops.

Where you find it: Lazy Acres Market in Santa Barbara, (805) 564-4410; Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463; Wine House in Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731.

-- S. Irene Virbila