2003 Domaine du Vissoux Moulin a Vent

2003 was a stellar year for Beaujolais -- even Beaujolais nouveau tasted like real wine. This Moulin a Vent from Domaine du Vissoux, just arriving on the shelves, shows how terrific a wine Beaujolais cru -- and specifically Moulin a Vent -- can be when a serious winemaker gets his hands on grapes from a great vintage. At this well-performing estate, yields are short, harvesting is done by hand and fermentation uses only the natural yeasts. In 2003 Pierre-Marie and Martine Chermette have made a benchmark Moulin a Vent that has the tannins and structure to age. The scent is floral -- rose petals and violets. The taste is gorgeous ripe fruit with something earthy to keep you coming back to the glass for another sip.

A Beaujolais like this drinks beautifully with food. Have it with grilled sausages, roast birds and fall’s braised meats and daubes.

Quick swirl

Region: Beaujolais

Price: About $22

Style: Lush and age-worthy

Food it goes with: Grilled sausages, roast birds and fall’s braised meats and daubes

Where you find it: Liquid Wine & Spirits in Chatsworth, (818) 709-5019; Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463; Vendome Liquors in Studio City, (818) 766-5272

-- S. Irene Virbila